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Leakdown Tester


docjcwatson

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How much shipped?

You're not getting it. It cost less than $30 to make.

 

Thanks for the compliments fellas. I owe this to the BHQ. I learned how to build this from the Chat on this website. Just goes to show how much some people can learn from this website.

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Great write up Doc. The only thing different on my gauge is that the pressure starts reading at zero. If someone is going to make one it would be in your best interest to get a gauge that starts at zero, and shows iincriments of one. That way if it leaks 2 PSI that gauge shows just a 2 PSI leak. Where as the gauge Justin used starts reading at 5 PSI. The procedure is, your motor should hold 6 PSI for 6 minutes. They say 1 PSI per minute leak is acceptable. My motors have never leaked more than 2 PSI in 6 minutes.

 

Just my two cents.

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Also another note.

 

If you are leakdown testing a motor that has been run and has oil in the exhaust port, it would be in your best interest to take a rag with some alcohol or carb cleaner on the end and wipe out the exhaust port. If you don't the plugs will tend to want to slip out under pressure.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Here is a pic of the pressure gauge i used.

 

DSC00793.jpg

hi, im new to bhq and banshee's, bought mine bought a year ago and im still trying to wrap my mind around the twin cylinders.I read this thread and it got me puzzled!i didnt know the two cylinders were actually connected,the gauge in one cylinder and the inflater in the opposite?is it just crankcase leaking that is being tested? sry for sounding dumb,just dont understand how the pressure flows to both cylinders?

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You have two options.

Put the fill fitting AND the pressure gauge fitting on the same intake plug, or...substitute one of the exhaust plugs for a pressure plug or the fill plug.

 

Seems to me a single cylinder leak down would have the fill/pressure on a single intake plug.

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Yep. Thanks Dave.

 

What you should do is, make a PVC pipe end with the cap in your correct size. Put the cap and pipe together. Then drill the holes. One on each side of the pipe. So now instead of having 1 gauge or 1 valve stem, coming out of the top. You will have 1 valve stem coming out of the right side of the pipe, and 1 gauge coming out of the other side of the pipe.

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so this is safe to do with any style crank. i just put in a hot rods 4 mil crank and was thinking about trying this out before finishing everything up. it looks like a simple yet successful leak down tester. and 1 lb / minute loss is the tolerable # right?

Edited by MILO
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