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My Banshee (optional)

  1. Hello Everyone I welcome you to my horror Story, Hopefully I can get some of my questions answered and some help to steer me in the right direction. I recently bought a banshee 01, it's my first 2 stroke. At time of purchase banshee had FMF head pipes + FMF core 2 silencers, UNI filter, Stock stroke crank, 66.25 Pistons, stock cylinders, Stock carbs with air box + lid running 300 main, 25 pilots, Gas was pump premium with 32:1 mix of BenoL, at the time of purchase Compression test was not done, just a quick ride through the gears and did notice neutral was very hard to find Also noticed that when you stand the banshee upright oil would leak out from somewhere though at the time i figured it was just overflow from somewhere After couple days riding, coolant starting leaking from the head or somewhere in that general area as the coolant started to leak on the head pipes. Replaced the radiator with an over sized one, filled with 50/50 coolant, Still same issue. Next took of the cylinder head , sanded down the top of the head slightly as it was a little nicked up, replaced the head gasket. This solved the coolant leak issue. Next ride, I started to notice that oil was dripping heavy out of the silencer pipes, I pulled off the spark plugs and they were fouled with oil, replaced the spark plugs, cleaned the carbs and went down to 280 main + 25 pilots still, Issue was still there so I went to local Yamaha dealer and they recommended to change the type of 2 stroke oil I use, I switched from the BenoL to amsoil dominator at new ratio of 40:1. This did not solve the problem. I also changed the transmission oil to belray and did notice that the oil was very watery and milky when it was flushed out. Next ride, I noticed that the banshee was not getting alot of power and kept bogging down, As i was attempting to get the bike out of the woods and back onto my trailer, the bike in mid 3d gear just stopped lost complete power, and smoke started coming from the head, I managed to push it to trailer and when I got home , I opened the cylinder head and saw that my pistons were now trash and so was the cylinder head . Further inspection i noticed that the crank rod was loose and there was alot of play up and down as the bearing inside the rod ( i think that's what it's called ) somehow ended up not there and now somewhere in the bottom end. I ended up stripping the bike completely down and as a newbie I broke some parts along the way including cracking the engine cases as I'm a dumb ass who didn't just buy a 40.00 case opener and followed some dumb youtuber smack the case open with a rubber mallet, I also noticed when I removed the clutch basket that it had alligator teeth as shown in the pictures, and that the Water pump plastic gear which is on the impeller was completely stuck on it that I had to drill a hole into just to remove though it was spinning I could not pull it off like the manual said ( yes I removed the cir-clip and washer) My issue is now I need some direction of how to properly rebuild this motor and with proper parts I ended up buying a used Crank from some random guy on craigslist , When i inspected the crank there was no play in the rods and just looked like seals need to be replaced and all the gears and bearings spun freely. How do i make sure this crank is ok? Can i take it anywhere to have it balanced to make sure it is spinning straight? Bought a new top and bottom case from ebay with No Chain break, had the cases bead blasted. I have included a picture of how I want the motor to look and I know it will not be cheap, I just want it done right, I'm not looking to resell it but ride it. Frame, steering stem, foot pegs, swing arm was powder coated Hot Candy Blue Bought new bushings and bearings for every part, new Mullen water pump impeller, new main water pump gear, V force 4 reeds, New uni air filter , PJ1 OIL and cleaner Since I will be boring the cylinders to their last bore ( not sure if it is last bore) 66.50, is it even worth it to do that? Or should i search for a pair of stock jugs with 64.00 bore and buy pistons for them. I will be buying a cool head, which type and dome size do I go with? , Im in NJ and sea level is 219 above, and I want to run premium gas with no race fuel What do I do with the cases if im trying to get that look in the photos? Have them polished? Painted? Pro's / Cons What do I do about the cylinder head? Keep it ? Replace it with Cool Head?? Why did my bike shit on me? What could have caused this failure? Crank? Oil? Water pump? The previous owner who didn't take care of it at all? Riding it in the cold? I don't want to put this motor back together and have same BS issues. Any help any suggestions would GREATLY be appreciated. If you made it this far thank you. http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/Bansheenjx/story Please look at the photos I have taken
  2. looking for a top end setup for sale Need pistons, cylinders, head. Want a ported stock stroke or 4mm ready setup. Will consider a less preformance setup for a good price. Will also buy crank! Stock or 4mm paypal ready and experience shipping needs sent to North Dakota
  3. Looking for a crank for my banshee. Stock, welded, or 4mm. Would need shipped to North Dakota or would buy straight from western canada. PayPal ready!
  4. Hey guys, I have a quick question. I bought a shee a while back blown for 1300 bucks. It's bored .100 over, has the boost bottle, stock head, trinity stage 4 pipes. The guy had burnt up a bottom end rod bearing and was afraid to get into crank issues. Now I have it... I pressed the crank apart and had to take my die grinder and grind down the crank pin because there was brass and metal welded to it from the bearing. Got it all cleaned up, put new rods in it, took it out for 15 minutes and boom. Again. Bottom rod bearing. What's happening now is because I have taken material off the pin It heated up, moved towards the bearing and pinched it. I have new rods again. Will perma loctite hold the throw from moving or am I looking at welding it or a new crank. I do still have to press it apart and together. It's not like I can use my hands to take it off. It's an oem crank and you can't remove the bottom end pin from the inner throw. Thanks guys, Mack.
  5. Tax time is rolling up quick, having a real dilemma between a nice gun or going for more power on the shee. The shee would defiantly be fitted for a mount for this tho.. https://www.facebook.com/groups/257018814344082/permalink/826530824059542/
  6. Previous owner of my banshee didn't clean it , now there is about 4mm of old greasy mud stuck to the underneath , any ideas how to remove it? I spend 40 minutes with a wire brush today but I can't get in the small groves and tight areas , maybe WD-40 would do the job or powerwashing it. Any advise? Thanks.
  7. i ran me shee without oil for about 2 miles DOH! i plan on replacing gaskets and all bearings if nothing else looks like it needs attention. But i figure while im in the bottom end i want to make sure ill never have to split the cases again while i own my shee. What do you guys recommend without breaking the bank? im mainly looking to never have to split the cases again but is there anything that has got a good bang for the buck while im into it? all input is welcome
  8. I recently purchased an original all stock (so i'm told) 1987 banshee for a school project. It runs and drives, however starting the thing is a pain in the a$$. The guy told me that it has an auto choke but I don't know if I believe him. After it starts it runs awesome. When its below 50 degrees fahrenheit I have to use starting fluid and it starts up no problem. Above 50 degrees it starts on about the 7th or 8th kick. Did they ever make an auto choke for a banshee, especially a 1987? Anyways should be a fun project. Thanks Tyler
  9. Started as a 1994, complete tear down and rebuild - engine, frame, plastics, pipes, suspension. Works shock, Toomey T5's, Mod Quad Head, bran new rz2 front and rears, trail tech lights, KN intakes with prefillters, paddles go with all original plastics and a set of FMF Gold series One ride on the dunes since it was redone in 2013 - no time to ride while taking care of babies!! $3500 Firm (have that much just in the Works, tires new plastics and powder coat alone, my loss i guess) Bay City Michigan, can send more pics. Call or text for details - Chris 989-239-one678
  10. I just bought an 01 Banshee bored .40 over and I love it! Except today I was riding and my clutch acted like the cable broke. I checked the cable and it was fine other than a loose strand or two. I started the bike and revved it up and my clutch magicaly started working again. So I have come to this conclusion. When the bike is at high rpms the clutch works perfect. Once the rpms drop I lose the clutch. It's Not the basket as the guy had just put a new basket and plates in it. I have no clue what the problem is help me?!
  11. So yesterday I drove 8 hours round trip to look at a banshee. I'm pretty new to the 2 stroke scene and the banshee community. Figured i could come here to find the answers to my questions. I picked up a 2006 Special Edition Banshee. The thing is 100% stock and completely stock. Couple quick questions I have is. What are you all using to mix with your fuel and what kind of oil are you running. Second if someone could explain to my how to post pictures that'd be great! Lol
  12. Hey BHQ, I want to offer you guys a group buy on stators. We have a great product for these bikes, and I'd like to help you all get em for a great price. Any of our Banshee parts are eligible for this group buy. I will list them below. I need to get a least 10 committed buyers to offer this price. The group buy will unlock a special coupon code I will give to each of you, depending on what you'd like to buy. You will then purchase on our website using the coupon code to receive your discount. 95-06 Yamaha Banshee High Power Dual Output AC Lighting Stator Regular Price: $109 Group Buy Price: $90 18% discount 95-06 Yamaha Banshee High Power 200W DC Charging Stator Regular Price: $114.99 Group Buy Price: $95 18% discount 95-06 Yamaha Banshee High Power 200W DC Stator & Regulator/Rectifier Kit Regular Price: $159.99 Group Buy Price: $120.00 25% discount As always with us, free shipping in the USA. I will run this group buy through end of day Thursday 4/25/2103. If you are in on this and COMMITTED, please start a list of your names in this format: 1. My-Name-a 2. My-Name-b 3. My-Name-c etc...
  13. Black Label 1 Piece fiberglass hoods in stock, ready for sanding and paint $180 plus shipping 541-653-9006 paypal blpowersports@gmail.com we offer bulk discounts with purchase of 2 or more
  14. Hi everyone, I've been thinking about getting one of the track kits for my banshee with the two tracks in the back and two skis in the front. I was wondering if anyone knew how well, or poorly, they worked?
  15. What should I check and look for when buying a banshee.
  16. How much would it cost for a whole new electrical system
  17. Do stock cdi boxes have the ability to output tachometer readings? What is the best and/or cheapest way to measure rpms with out buying a device like Trail Vapor?
  18. Can you but a arms on a banshee when it has v arms?
  19. I'm looking for a pretty close to stockish banshee. My budget is 1250 cash and preferably in Georgia. Any help will be appreciated!
  20. Hello everyone. I have recently bought a yamaha banshee. Anyway I am worried that the jetting may be off, and I want to re adjust it. The guys I bought it from had their jetting at a 240 main. Uni pod filters Fmf fatty pipes and silencer 19cc domes V force reeds if I remember correctly Boost bottle idk if that matters Mixed at 32:1 with yamalube 2r, 93 octane. Height is sea level Temp is about 70-80 degrees I was wondering what you guys would recommend for the main jets, pilots, needle clip. Any advice is great, thanks.
  21. Black Label Powersports Fiberglass hoods ready for sanding prep and paint $200 plus ride, 180.00 each if you buy two and save on shipping 541-653-9006 paypal blpowersports@gmail.com
  22. Ok I no this page is full of knowledge and need some help. I just restored a banshee with a 10mil Cheetah in it. I removed the PV and had the motor gone through by a local shop. On the second time out it began to run like crap, so I took it back to the shop. They tore into it and discovered the one of my reeds (VForce 2) had a broken pedal. With further review they discovered that one of the screws (typical) came loose from the reed and took out my piston and dome. Where is where I need advice... It has 125mm rods, 72.5 pistons with 18mm wrist pins. I have been told that pistons with 18mm wrist pins are obsolete and only a couple left in existence and cost $350-400.00 a pair. Is that true? Does anyone know of a vendor that I can find these? Thanks in advance.
  23. Hey all, new to the forums and just had a couple questions about my banshee which I just bought. The quad has an aftermarket airbox and filter on it and the previous owner has 1/4 inch tubing running from the carb and into the air box. I was told this was done so the carb could receive more air flow but after a bit of riding fuel from the carb will slowly fill the lines. I empty them after each ride but am curious as to what that's about. Also on my last ride I brought it back and it sat for about 5 minute when all of a sudden the radiator gushed out a bunch of coolant, at first I thought it was a loose hose but it appears that the liquid came directly out of the bottom of the rad. Any help on these topics would be appreciated as this is my first banshee.
  24. Looking for a nice set of Big Bore In Frame Shearer exhaust. Cash in hand Thanks in advance.
  25. These are in excellent shape $80.00 I can email or text pics, having trouble uploading photos
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