HiRoller

I just had this exact problem. Replaced the gear and put in a billet impeller.

I sent an email to Maxima a while back regarding Super M vs. 927. They don't recommend running 927 unless you are a racer with a mechanic that tears your motor apart regularly. Been using Super M for years with good results.

"Because valves SUCK!"

My buddies dad used to ride with us in the dunes, he was in his late 70's and rode a Honda Pilot. He was paralyzed from the waist down from polio (the Pilot is all hand controls). We had to pick him up and set him in the Pilot and pull him out when he was done. As you could imagine he was a huge inspiration to us and he could tear it up pretty good on that thing.

Paddles are totally personal choice. I'm a huge fan of the Haulers, best straight-line traction and not so much turning traction for big power slides. I rode on a bike with V paddles last weekend and hated them, they work completely bass-ackwards for what I like.

How are you guys mounting them?

We already knew that (going to SL on July 4th) :biggrin:

I towed a dirt bike in the dunes for about a mile. That was interesting.

Sand Lake will be the closest to you but skip it and go to Florence, Winchester Bay, or Coos Bay. My favorite is Winchester (was there yesterday) but all three are good. Bring a gps if you can.

My buddies are running ITP Sand Star fronts on their raptors. I like them, not as aggressive as dune trackers but better than mohawks.

$15k invested, BIN $4800. That was a bad investment.

Add one or two master links. Get the rivet kind if possible and make sure they are for your specific make/model chain.

Adding a cool head to my bike (stock motor w/ the usual bolt-ons) made a noticeable boost in the low end.

OP's point taken but I have to say that by using the search function I have found a staggering amount of useful info on this forum. Almost every little question or problem I have ever had has been answered here.

Thanks for the post rr and this should be stickied. I've been chasing the same problem and will take your advice.

I ride dunes only and much prefer a twist throttle. You have to learn to squeeze the tank with your knees and take it easy for a day or two until you get used to it.

Run it hard. Main thing is keep a load on the engine (don't rev it in neutral) and vary the rpm's.

Forcefield is one of the very top body armour companies in road racing, that is a sweet gift.

I would do one mod and start the bike to make sure its running good, then move on to the other and repeat. If you do them all at once and have problems it will be a lot harder to troubleshoot where the problem is.

Would this work? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...itemnumber=3980

Thanks guys, there are a few bike shops around here so I'll have them remove and install the springs.

I'm upgrading my suspension soon and will probably want to powdercoat the new springs to match my bike. Is this possible? How hard is it to disassemble the shock to get the springs out? I'm looking at a new set of Works dual rate fronts and send the rear to Works for a heart transplant.

I recently bought a PD o-ring chain and steel sprockets from RMATV for $75.00. They only have 2 rides on them and I've had to tighten the chain a bit after each ride. Hopefully its done stretching.

Think I found the problem- the reeds were completely soaked in oil and felt sticky when I pushed on them. Maybe they were stuck shut. I wiped them down, put everything back together, started it up and it runs a lot better than it has been. Revs real quick and peppy. I'm going for a ride next weekend with fingers crossed.

OK I cleaned the bejeebus out of the carbs (completely disassembled and soaked all the parts in Simple Green overnight). When I finished putting the bike back together it started on the 3rd kick and ran like a champ. A couple days later went out to the dunes and still basically the same problem. Would not kick start at all first thing in the morning and had to get a tow to bump start it. The rest of the day it started on the first kick but didn't run right. First it was bogging at WOT, then it ran OK for a while, then the last hour or so it bogged at all throttle positions. I pulled the plugs and they are both dry as a bone. Next up I'm checking the reeds, compression, and spark.