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97Screamer

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Posts posted by 97Screamer

  1. 5 hours ago, kevshiau said:

    Timing is +5 and compression is 150. The domes were cut by HJR. He told me to bring the bike back down to him and he will try to get it fixed. If he still can't get it to run right I may have to take you up on your offer. Thank you!

    100 octane should be plenty for 150psi. I'd take Kevin's suggestion and put the timing back to stock to see if that fixes it. Kevin does great port work but once upon a time had dome design issues. It its spitting plugs at stock timing and you are sure the compression is 150psi you have a dome design issue. 

  2. 2 hours ago, kevshiau said:

    I had a 10 mil super cub duner built by HJR in January, when I got it back I took it to Glamis to break it in. Initially it felt like the top end never kicks in and the powerband never comes on. I thought maybe because I wasn't giving it full throttle so I finished the break in process as instructed: not going over half throttle for the first 2 tanks. Toward the end of the second tank I took it on a regular ride and tried to open the throttle up, but same results. I rode it around a bit more and the radiator hose popped off the cool head and saw that one of the spark plugs backed out. I took it back down to HJR and he said I was detonating because of the gas I was using (100 pump) it burned off the ground strap on my spark plug. He checked everything and said nothing was damaged or broken and put it back together, and the top end power was there when he tested it. When I got it back it took it back to Glamis this past weekend there was still no top end power, my old 7 mil stock cylinder was definitely faster. Even my friends 421 felt like there was more power. After my second ride I saw that the spark plug backed out again and he said it is because of detonation but don't know what is causing it, it could be the flywheel, stator, coil, CDI, harness, or carbs. I ran VP 100 octane from the can this time, so I am pretty sure it is not the gas. How can I find out what it is causing the detonation and why isn't there any top end power?

    I am pretty frustrated because I spent a lot of money building the motor and it has less power and doesn't run right. I don't even know how to find out what is wrong with it. All HJR told me to do was put it back to stock timing and we can go from there, but that means I would have to take my bike back to Glamis and run/test it again just to see if it is still detonating. Is there an easier way?

    My mods are: 10 mil, super cub, 32 domes to run 100 octane gas, PWK 38 carbs, aggressive dune/drag port, CPI small bore pipes

    Check your timing and your compression. I'm guessing either your compression is too high for 100 octane and/or you have too much timing. If those is inline then your dome design probably sucks. I'm in San Diego if you need help.

  3. 1 hour ago, Matt1218 said:

    New to the forum , I have researched for a while and still have yet to find an explanation other than someone did this own their own. I have a 96 banshee , crank bearings were shot so I decided to do a full build on it. In the process of disassembling the motor and cleaning the bare cases I noticed there is an engraved “ZAGS” “ZAG5”  in both case halves. I’m just trying to figure out if this has any meaning to it , so if anyone has any input I’d love to hear it.

    They do this at the factory as the case halves are machined as a set. Every oem banshee case will have a matching code scribed in each half. 

  4. Roundhouse carrier is also called Honda style carrier. They have the enclosed carrier housing that an aluminum carrier with eccentric axle hole slides in. The eccentric hole is how you adjust the chain. 

     The difference is the chain adjustment. That's it. Roundhouse allow you to properly and effortlessly adjust the chain tension and keep it. Yamaha never put it on factory for the banshee. Yamaha's design is terrible and often fails on high hp quads. Don't waste your money on another stock carrier. Buy a new swimgarm with Roundhouse style carrier mount. 

    • Like 1
  5. - Low hour 72mm 7 mil Super Cub cylinder and pistons $850

    - OEM cylinders Dune ported for a 4mil by HJR. 64mm bores, FAST pump gas domes, Wiesco pistons $600

    - New Keihin 33mm PWK with used intake and filters $500

    - Lonestar +2/+1 standard travel arms, only a couple pieces made it in the picture but I have the complete set in great shape $500

     

    Most of the misc. parts in the first picture are for sale. Please ask if you're interested in any of that.6913194f0e7afc7d31fe9a6c83f1b1de.jpg554e46180ea5165121ed9efd65db71d4.jpg7b5f4d5f80b25b4e971382140f3df74e.jpg5be7a7f58d3e6ca6e15436bad0372cff.jpge66ad1a025884ba111b921a3f5e91a4f.jpga7c94dcf8aeb3585e229cd8512e97627.jpg8eb00b1d7a13b414bc38d677ba98fb66.jpg

     

    Sent from my SM-A136U using Tapatalk

     

     

  6. 12 minutes ago, kawa110 said:

    I’m looking to buy a elka long travel link and shock for my desert race setup. Just worried about losing ground clearance with the long travel linkage.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I don't think the link hangs lower than stock, if anything it looks tucked up higher. I could measure next time I have my quads out. Either way your carrier will be the limiting factor in ground clearance. 

  7. I'm in San Diego and prices here run $400-600 to properly powder a frame. If you have a bunch of small stuff (i.e. hubs, spindles, springs, etc) prices will go up as it's a lot of prep work to do them right. Depending on the severity of the bend probably figure $200-300 to get that straightened. May need to find a frame shop to do it most powder places won't want to mess with straightening a frame unless it's very minor.

    Sent from my SM-A136U using Tapatalk

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