snubber187

Popped master link clip off then tried get it apart and it seems seized together..had anyone had this issue? Thanks for the responses guys

Hey guys. Today I went down a tooth on my front sprocket (13). Obviously this slacked my chain off extensively. After slacking off the main bolts and tightening in adjusters, I find that I am maxed out on the adjustment and I ran out of threads. My question for you is can I locate some adjuster bolts with the same thread that are a little longer to get it tighter or will this cause problems? Was also thinking I could drop a link in the chain because even though my adjusters maxed out, I still have 3 inches of play or so in the chain with the rider on the bike. Opinions? Thanks in advance!

Need to get a skid plate ASAP as I'm down rocky trails quite often. Good-mint condition please!

I'll take bumper as long as its in decent condition. I don't know how to im on here so email me at [email protected]. Thanks

Bike is pretty much stock. Fmf front to back, k&n with cover on and snorkel removed, carbon fiber reeds (not sure which kind). Pilot jet is stock, and I did have 280"s for mains, the only reason I changed to 260 was because they sent those jets along with the pipes, so I figured that's what was recommended. From what I hear I should have left the 280. Will also increase pilots next time I have carbs apart. Thanks guys!

Thanks for all the advice! Got new screws on the way, but planning a ride this weekend. My bike use to start 1st or 2nd Kick no choke, but now I need to choke when it's cold to start. Also it seems to fire better out of one side on warmup, but seems to fix itself when warmed up. Is this ok to take out for a weekend ride?

Yes removed the little black box and everything disconnected that had to do with tors. The bike is running good now, had to adjust the slide height high enough so it would idle and everything seems to be pretty much bang on now. Any consequences in driving the way it is without the air screws as long it works ok?

Can I adjust the idle with the screw at the thumb throttle, or the adjuste on the carb caps until I get my idle screws?

Thanks guys. I would have assumed if the carbs needed air screws than they would have came with the kit. Thanks for the enlightening, ill check online and see if I can purchase air screws separately from the kit since I already have the kit installed.

So the two brass flathead screws that come stock in the carbs have nothing to do with the idling? Will I be able to have the bike running correctly without installing air screws, or is there no exception?

Slides are in correct position, I was syncing them by eye and surely would have noticed if they weren't in right. My kit didn't come with the air screws, it only came with the mikuni caps, throttle cable, and cable connectors. I didn't know that you could put the slides in backwards, but I'm sure they're in right. Does mixing slides between carbs cause problems, or are they generally the same?

Hey guys. I installed the tors removal kit yesterday on my 03 banshee. While i had everything apart, i changed my stock jets to 260's which i recived with my fmf fatty pipes. got the carbs back in, synced them and then attempted to fire up. it didnt wanna go so i put a squirt of fuel in carbs and it then fired. once it fired up it seemed very laggy on the bottom end, seemed like it only wanted to stay running if i was 1/2-full throttle. Then all of the sudden it stopped firing on one side ( could only see exhaust smoke on one side). i can get it to fire now without squirting some gas in the carbs, but it needs to be choked. Everything ran fine before the tors kit was on, with the exception of a little lag in the bottom end sometimes. Air screws are 1.5 turns out, choke hose is connected between carbs, electrical connections are good. going to grab some new plugs on the way home incase its as simple as a fouled plug. Does anyone have any other suggestions as to wh its only firing on one side, and why it quits when i attempt to idle it? Thanks guys!!