oldskool

Your gonna need the choke plungers(2). You can do a google search for mikuni carbs. There is a lot of choices for any parts you may need for the mikuni carbs. Be sure to search specific carb such as 32mmVM or 32mmTM,ect.

Nice find. Enjoy

Did you test while engine was at normal running temps?

when you say wont run and runs great. Are you talkind about idle or while riding

I have never tried this on a two-stroke, but I have poured Marvel Mystery Oil in carbs to pickle a couple V8's. Just poured it in until they stopped running.

Your gonna want to sync those carbs after tors removal

They use to run blaster pistons in banshee's when they went to a 115mm rod, but since you can get the wiseco 795's I think thats what most guys use now. See banshee has a stock rod of 110mm and a blaster has a 115mm

You would have to port your cylinders for a 58mm stroke,shave head unless you have a cool head, then you just need domes cut for +4mil crank. Then your piston choice will depend on whether you go with long rod(115MM) or short rod(110mm)

Ok guys Thanks. Never seen anything like that before. Everytime I ran an engine out of gas, it would quit running. Not go wide open. Scary? hell yeah, It took a while checking for leaks and head scratching before I would start her again. lol

NOOOOO I'm not gonna run carbs out. I thought I was gonna have the big one

I have a all new set up to me, with 64.50 bore,ported cylinders,+4 mill crank,34mm tm mikuni's, billet intakes with no cross over. I'm still working on jetting. 35 pilot and 260 main right now. Yesterday I fired the bike up and let it run for a few minutes, then turned the gas off to run fuel out of carb. The engine went WOT. I hit kill switch, still WOT. I then pulled both plug wires, bike is STILL RUNNING WOT, I then pulled both chokes and she died. Can someone PLEASE tell me what would allow the engine to keep running with no plug wires. Leakdown test a couple weeks ago checked out ok. Lost 1/2 lb in 10 mins. I'm pretty sure pilot is too big, but DAMN. I don't want to lose another engine over something stupid. Too many $$$ for me

So, should I call you a fucking shithead in order to fit in? LOL

And I thought I was doing the guy a solid. 4,161 post F#!K ME

Matt to figure your displacement, it goes as follows bore x bore x stroke x .7854 Example stock shee is 64 x 64 x 54 x .7854 = 173.7, then x 2 cylinders = 347.4

Agree! This is how you set up piston and bore

IDK man,maybe check your o-rings on air screw.

No two set-ups will be exactly the same, I'm guessing between 240 and 270 mains. As some of us said before bigger carbs, smaller jets. I ran 280's in stock carbs. I'm at 260 with 34mm tm's

Zew, in this section at the very top you will see a pinned info thread, go to that and click on the link by loco and scroll down until you see leakdown tester

If you are running 115 rods in a stock cylinder/head, thats why you have the blaster piston. The wrist pin is moved up on the blaster piston vs the stock banshee piston. In the end you still have same TDC as stock banshee. If you go with a +4mil long rod crank, you have to port your cylinders accordingly and shave head or use cool head with domes cut for a 4mil. confused yet?

Don't think this is your problem, but if you deleted the tors you need to unplug the brain(??). Its the small box under gas tank on far left side.

I took K&N's off and replaced with uni pods. I was comfortable with the K&N with outerwear. The uni's just seem to be less maintenance with cleaning.

Nice looking bike

Kozy, your squish band should be between .040 and .050 .045=just right

I would agree with maskman. Bigger carbs=smaller jets. Your getting more velocity. I'm running 34mm TM Flats with 30 pilot and 260 main on 4mill 64.50 bore at 800ft. ported rad valve with boyensen reeds. I started with 330 mains and shee would not run worth a crap. Hope that helps

Did you turn chokes off, does it still fire on first kick? What about jetting