oldskool

Well, having experience with 2 strokes is gonna help. Although banshee's are 2 stroke and they are a quad, they are a stand alone bike like no other. Actually its like two engines working as one. I think a dual carb set up works better. Just look around here and read,read,read! They can be extremely frustrating and also very rewarding,

Do like starwriter said and give us numbers on top of pistons(old/new) I'm assuming you are new too banshee. Lot to learn, but this is the place

You can download a service manual in the technical info section

PassionRE, in no way was I trying to say you were expensive, just telling the op that banshee engines can get expensive. Its obvious you know engines.

I just want to add to what a couple guys have already told you. Do the leakdown test before you tear it down. Hopefully its all good, but you can't do the test after you tear it down until you get it back together. Then if you find a crank seal leak its "oh shit" tear it down again.

IMO, a professional port job and timing plate at +2/+4 gives you the most bang for your buck

I would do a leak down test before tearing it down just to know if a leak caused my problem or not. A air leak can seize these engines up in a hurry,especially at high rpm's

Not being a smartass, but if you want a 554cc or larger banshee engine, your gonna need a lot of $$$$'s. Good luck with your project

Its oil,gas and too much yamabond or hondabond, I mix and match. lol

You can download a free service manual in the Technical info section of this forum. Its not as nice as having a book in your hand, but it is way,way better than not having one. The clutch is no problem, just follow procedure when installing the new one as described in the manual step by step. I would run the air box if I were planning on riding through mud and water.

I'm thinkin 280/300 mains

Swapped the 19cc domes for 20's. Put in two new B8ES. Took timing back from +4 to +2. Set pick-up gap at .018. The bike ran much,much better. Still have the 34tm's on and still rich with 260 main,27.5 pilot and air/mix screw 1 turn out. I'll spend some more time on it later when its not so crappy outside. I'm still thinking these 34's are maybe to much carb for what I need. Thanks everyone

I ordered a set of 65mm ported cylinders, when they got to me, they measured something like 67.25. I thought it was a honest mistake. Not to sure now If he's the stand up guy, I must be the one bent over

DID x-ring chain, 13t front, stock rear Some guys will claim parasitic losses with o-ring/x-ring chain, but they last longer and are easier on the sprockets. IMO

Are you positive you don't have a leak around intake,carb,crossover tube. Make sure the o-rings are still in air screws if you have had those carbs apart

I have a aftermarket tusk cap and I'm thinking there are no screws. I'll have to look when I get back home. What do you suggest if thats the case. I put the tusk cap on simply for appearance. If the tusk has better air flow than stock, I wouldn't know

Surfrjag, surely I can have my issues fixed by then(I hope), but if not, can I ride a honda 4-poke with yall? LMAO When there's a crash you have to wait until the bodies are cleared, ahhhh I mean bikes are cleared from the track then we go back to racing

OK, I'm gonna try them for now. I was running 280 main 27.5 pilot before +4 crank. You think I should start 330/300 main?

Another question. Will my stock carbs/intakes fuel my +4 crank at 379cc for a 500 ft wot run

I'm a noob here, but not to Busco. They have a awesome drag strip. I believe they turn the lights off at 11:00 pm, but you don't have to stop. You can go all night. If its real dry, they will water the track down from time to time. You can line up six wide without getting yelled at. More than six and they start complaining, and yes somebody will fuck up and the EMS will show up. Hope to meet you guys there.

Ok fellows, I'm gonna try all suggestions. IT will be next weekend before I can do anything else. Thanks

Forgot to mention that my comp tester is 1/8 of an inch shorter than the plug. Don't think that will make a big difference

Larry, I thought the comp would be higher also,BUT the cylinders did not have a fresh bore. I did use new 795's The guy that cut the domes is a very well known builder. I'm not interested in putting a bad word out. I just thought a 19cc would be too small for my engine running pump gas. Gonna do like pastrykiller said and try some 20's and close the pick-up gap New plugs for sure Okbeast, I got three sets of black ones. At least I'm fat. That might be a lot of my problem. See I lost my last motor(very strong) due to running lean. I'm SCARED! LOL

Pastrykiller, I got 139 right cylinder and 145 left side Jereme6655, 64.50 bore +4 long rod crank coolhead Rad valve for stock intakes. I cut the cones off of the rad vale and opened them up some billet intakes with no cross over 34mm mikuni's 27.5 pilot, 260 main, needle clip now in 3rd slot uni pods timing plate set at +4 B9ES plugs New OEM stator 1 year ago pick-up gapped at .020 spark is there, but seems a little weak T6 pipes( I KNOW, but thats all I have) 800 FT Ported cylinders I've had good success with a couple top end builds using stock carbs and intakes, minor jetting, but I cant get this one

I just can't find the tune on my recent build. +4mil crank,64.50 mm bore, 34mm mikuni's. I started with330 mains and I'm at 240 now. Started with 35 pilots,now at 27.5. The bike is doing better on top,but seems to come and go. Coming off the line,it just wants to fall down hard. I'm running 19cc domes on pump gas. Is it possible for the bike to start easy and idle fine, then fall down under load with these domes. I guess my question is should I try 20cc domes? I have also dropped the needle to last slot, this was no help with the falling down coming off the line