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i like pwk but pj aint bad. not real impressed with lectron

you could preorder these things when they were still a idea on paper. seems they should of done all this testing bullshit first. marketing strategy i suppose. alot of people took the bait

this is a bike like cr500. black mikuni pump, billet bowl, pingle valve etc. definatly no fuel flow issue. 2 PJ and one is all the way open, other one is 2 turns in from the full open position. needle is about 51mm right now. not sure what needle it is because its got a groove cut from packard and most of the letters are gone from the groove. only letter thats visible appears to be number 7. theres fuel out the pipe but im not sure if its coming out at idle or full throttle, never payed attention really but definatly raw fuel splattered on the side of the bike. im just confused because when you launch, the carb is wide open so how do you know where the correct needle length is ? also i checked a couple plugs and its not burning any of the plating and i dont see any sign of a timing burn mark on the strap. ill get some pics of the plugs hopefully in a few hours

got a alky 48hv lectron on my bike an its stuttering when you try to launch it. does it usually for the first 2 gears then it seems to run clean. from what i read if its lean it can do similar symptoms as if its to rich. theres hardly no smoke out the pipe so im wondering if the stuttering is from to lean ? packard told me to put the needles at 53mm but it was real zingy like it was lean. i richened em a couple turns and it still stutters. what i dont understand is when you launch the carb will be wide open so im confused if my problem is in the PJ or the needle. but ive seen some bikes that smoke like a freight train and seem to run good. mine has almost no smoke. only got the timing advanced 2* right now until i get it to run right then i can mess with the timing more.

maybe some ignitions dont have the power to use .022 so they gap em down to .018 ?

well like i said out the box seemed to work just as good. just didnt know why folks kept saying .018

ya theyre .022 from the box but seems like everyone says to use .018 with alky. just wondering the reason.

seems like everyone using .018" . is there a specific reason ? asking because on my single cylinder bike i was using .018 but tried .022 and it seemed to run just as well

did there used to be a guy chainsaw charlie ?

when i first put on the lectron i didnt know what the hell i was doin. had both pj wide open and kept turning one in 5 1/2 which i found out is almost closed. burned all the plating off the plug

temp was about the same. not sure on the humidity. started out at 53mm but like i said you could hear it was real lean. rpm didnt drop normal and had a zingy lean sound. richened it 3 turns which made it sound alot better but maybe 3 turns was to much. im guessing that would put it around 50mm. not sure what needle it is. has a groove cut in it with one number still visible. appears to be a 7 but i dont know if that meens its a pe7 or maybe it was some other needle originally. what has me stumped is it was running pretty good at my house and go 1,500' lower and it bogs in 2 and 3rd like it has to much fuel. should of leaned out alittle i would think. im gonna lean it 1 turn and see what happens. that should be around 51mm i think. i dont know much about lectron so im still learning. does 1/4 turn do anything or should i stay with 1/2 turns ? another thing i havent messed with the timing yet. was gonna try and get the carb in the ballpark then figure out the timing.

i just figured if hes new to lectron packard might be able to get him within 1 or 2 turns. but ya either way it shouldnt take to long to figure it out got a question regarding lectron. got 48hv on alky and it was alittle lean from packards recomendation (sounded pretty zingy) so i richened it 1 turn and it sounded alittle better. went another turn and got better. went even 1 more turn for the hell of it and it seemed to run fairly good. did all the testing in the dirt with knobby tire. left the carb as is and went to the dunes 1,500' lower elev with paddle tire. now engine bogged 2 and 3rd gears then ran like a raped ape 4 and 5th gear. i dont understand wtf because it should of leaned out alittle from the altitude. was the paddle pulling more fuel making it bog ? 2 and 3rd sounded just like it was over fueled. leaning the PJ did nothing

might want to ask packard for a ballpark starting point . did you buy the carbs used from ebay ?

not sure what they meen but ive seen em on my plugs. i wouldnt worry about it

wish i could say fuck tard on other sites. been wanting to tell a few people how i really feel

the plastic type cages work good. seen em last alot of years

cool thnx. that measurement will be of great help. didnt know anything about his new bowls. what do they look like ?

wondering if anyone has a packard bowl sitting around they could measure the depth from the carb base ? im working on a project (not banshee related) and trying to get a idea if i have enough room between the bottom of the carb and the cases to use the billet bowl. LOL had to steal this pic from ebay so i could show what i meen. the red arrows is the measurment im hoping someone can get me.

really wasnt looking to dump a ton of money into it or ship stuff all over the country. just figured maybe i could polish a few things in the garage and have it work alittle smoother. but if a polishing wheel is a waste of time i wont bother

right now i think vf4 is only available for stock banshee cylinders, blaster and ktm 250. got vf4 on my ktm and they seem to work fine but ive never tried anything else so i have nothing to compare them to

im sure someone has polished a few tranny parts like the chanells in the drum and maybe the forks. whats the best way to do it ? i was thinking a buff wheel like what you use for aluminum with some paste but wasnt sure. any advice ?

i dont know the answer but i suspect its possible to have to much blowdown which is directly related to the size of the exh port.

you can make a decent runner just using crank rotation but youll probly be better off figuring out specific time areas and working with that method