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  1. registered user
    im sure hes smart enough to know $800 in tools is not a good investment for a short time use. theres cheaper tools that can be used. alot of used foredom stuff on ebay for cheap its funny none of you dummies talk shit about the site sponsors for not showing pics............. so why would i show your dumbass any pics but anyways thats enough arguing with a parts changer. good day sir robert im sure pasi can help you. in the future you may also look into other sites for addition help. most guys around here dont know their head from ass on the porting subject, as seen by uman1030's first response
  2. registered user
    its easy to spot the guys whove never touched a porting tool a moment in their life he wants to try it himself so how about some help. not a lame 500 word essay of why he should send it to someone else. thats what parts changers do, send it somewhere else because they dont have a clue where to begin robert if you have the tools and alittle mechanical knowledge you should do fine with the basics. maybe talk with pasi if hes in your area. perhaps he can give you some help i can tell you a few simple things. larger radius on the roof does help the rings last longer but certainly isnt the best for power. a medium radius would be good for what your trying to do. i prefer not to knife edge any of the dividers but some guys do it. enlarging the exh below the transfers seems counterproductive imo. i think youll be better off widening the windows alittle without raising them much. this will get you some practice and you can try the engine. its easy to get the cylinders back off and do more work if you want. when you get more practice you can set them at a desired height . ive found it helpful to get your desired window shape and draw it on some stiff paper like a empty cereal box then cut it out and use for a template.
  3. registered user
    this shows the basic procedure. although i dont agree with the first part where he says to pound out the old bearings. its just as fast and easy to put the rod through and pull the old ones out then you dont have to bang the hell out of everything.
  4. registered user
    dude just go to ace hardware and get some threaded rod and 2 washers. put it through the swingarm with a socket of appropriate size on each end and blam youll have em out in less than 5min. put new ones in the same way. should be video on youtube showing how if you dont understand
  5. registered user
    timing affects how well the pipe works also. ive never done any testing with the stock box so i dont know if alot of static advance would be good or bad. this is where a programable unit really has the advantage. can create a ideal curve across the board
  6. registered user
    whats that old sayin. dont count your chicken until they hatch
  7. registered user
    whats the 3cylinder with billet cases weight ? complete engine minus carbs and pipes
  8. registered user
    that dont make sense. friend gots a 250 bored .050 so its a 300 now i think. thats what they tell me anyways. this math shit is confusing
  9. registered user
    wiseco crankshaft eh. you must be new to the sport
  10. registered user
    you dont have any floats with a needle valve ?
  11. registered user
    selling shoes in the day and grinding cylinders in the bathroom at night
  12. registered user
    a legitimate performance shop should have a dyno within arms reach. without it you will spend alot of time going around in circles with little progress forward.
  13. registered user
    i think alot of shops nowdays are nothing more than parts changers working out of a 10x10 shed behind the house. half the work is probly farmed out to a third party so all they really doing is assembly. rarely is everything done in house these days
  14. registered user
    i never tried this but i wonder if the bridge is thick enough to accomplish such a shape
  15. registered user
    its all good man. looked back on alot of shit i did and wondered why the hell i did it. im sure people tend to replicate what they see from pictures. pretty sure near every pic around here is knifed and Veed on the bridge so its understandable you would do it similar. try to think outside the box for a better way. maybe look at how other cylinders are and gather some ideas. get a peek at calvins jugs for some ideas. on the stuff i do theres not one sharp edge except where the window joines the bore. but everyone has there own method. keep at it and youll get it sorted out
  16. registered user
    why not make the bridge more like cpi jugs . not that im a expert in aerodynamics or anything. i just never liked the knife edged V shape stuff
  17. registered user
    chainsaw
  18. registered user
    i wouldnt be concearned with the boyesen ports. i dont see why they would hurt anything not sure what you can do with the tunells. to be honest theyre not the best shape to begin with. large radius from entry to exit would be better but i dont think thats possible and thats one of the problems with inline twins that have the jugs close together. maybe with epoxy or weld you can do something ? most people dont like the engine full of epoxy so i would just do the best you can and thats all you can do
  19. registered user
    shit them cracks aint nothin. i got weld all over in mine. bottom of the port, both aux dividers and a pressure relief hole above the port
  20. registered user
    camatv tell us your secrets what you do. make the piston windows bigger ?
  21. registered user
    i was thinking the same thing on the boyesen ports. with them that small they probly arent making much difference either way. if the casting was thick enough to make them quit a bit larger im still not sure they would make much difference because the main intake appears it can be made rather large. and the piston windows are your boyesen ports so to speak. some engines dont use piston windows and there for rely more on large boyesen ports
  22. registered user
    just send it all to sprinklerman racing. he will get it whipped into shape for ya. porting and measure your jugs. the whole enchilada
  23. registered user
    i wouldnt drop the exh floor. you will gain nothing from it. but you might open a escape route from the pipe to crankcase, but you may already have that problem. put cylinders on and see if theres a hole under the skirt. if its small hole you should be ok, if its large hole you might want to reconsider what height you set the cylinders. but having no escape hole is the best having a paper thin bridge is not a good idea but on the other hand i dont see a reason to keep a mile wide bridge either.
  24. registered user
    to you maybe it makes more sense. but not to me. do it how ever you feel comnfortable is what it boils down to
  25. registered user
    thats not really a issue with sleeved cylinders. alittle slip wont hurt anything. even with plated cylinders its not a huge deal unless your slipping alot in the same area and put a big gouge in the plating. once you get a feel for the tool its pretty rare to slip

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