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Thack82

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Everything posted by Thack82

  1. Thack82
    Just like you discredited me on the Cheetah Intakes VS the Serval Intakes, right? The six bolt TRX-250R Cheetah Intakes are out dated technology because they were designed in the 80's but the stock four bolt Banshee Intakes that was designed by Yamaha's Engineers in the 70's for the RD-350 Motorcycle and then later used on the RZ-350, Banshee, and the SERVAL CYLINDERS are not.......... because??????? Yo, that's the stupid shit I've ever heard! It makes absolutely NO sense whatsoever! Lol, but continue on, proving your points.
  2. Thack82
    As I stated previously I'll post pictures of the finished product before it's sent to out for heat treating powder coat. The chassis fabricator I'm using is the best I've seen. You've been bashing and talking shit about this idea that many other members have expressed interest in since I brought it up and posted the first generic print. You can argue the superiority of the the 1989 TRX-250R Frame and Suspension Geometry and the Pro-Trax Front End over the 2009 and newer YFZ-450R Frame and Suspension Geometry all you want, I'm not buying it and given time I don't anybody else will either.
  3. Thack82
    The yellow frame is 2003 stock Banshee Frame that has not been modified in anyway whatsoever other than the color. The previous owner that purchased the quad new in 2003 from a Yamaha dealership that also happens to be a good friend of mine had the factory satin black Yamaha paint sand blasted off the frame and powder coated yellow three or four years ago. The weight of the yellow frame that's depicted in the picture is accurate and correct. That was a brand new high end ($34.99) digital bathroom scales that I bought brand new and put a new set of replacement Energizer 3V Lithium Batteries in before They were ever used the first time. The scales were placed on flat level area inside my shop on a concrete floor that I checked using a 24" I-Beam Level, before I used the "self calibration" feature the scales came equipped with. To further insure the level of accuracy I used a combination of cast dumbbell weights with total weights ranging from 5-60lbs to make sure they were calibrated and reading accurately as possible. I was in charge of environmental lab for almost 11 years, I know the proper procedures required to insure the accuracy of a set of scales. The weight of both frames w/ subframes that are depicted in the pictures I attached in in my previous post are accurate. The maximum margin of error on that particular set of scales was plus or minus 1.5% and when I calibrated the scales I wasn't getting margins anywhere near that. I've got the calibration margin coefficients and results that I recorded prior to weighing the frames wrote down in a binder in my shop if more proof is required. Just going from memory I'm wanting to say the margin of error was right around 0.3% which means those results were accurate within plus or minus 0.1536lbs. I know your a douchebag Canadian that has a hard time with the English Language and more than likely our standard units of measure are giving you a hard time as well, so that's 0.0697 kilograms. You can try to discredit me all you want. Those results are as close to accurate as anything you'll find posted on this forum and a lot more accurate than the bull shit 46lb number you threw out there.
  4. Thack82
    The new frame is gusseted for additional strength as well. We cut a custom 13pc gusset kit on a water jet table out of 1/8" thick chromoly. The radiator and steering stem support was reenforced as well. It's looking like to total weight of the frame itself is going to come out a little heavier than I would have like to have seen (44lbs) but I was willing to compromise on the weight to add additional strength to the chassis to insure maximum reliability. A lot of guys tend to forget that I'm a recreational trail rider that rides for hours at time in the woods with a bunch of four stroke sport quads. I had a member the other day that was telling someone that additional crankcase oil capacity was bad thing because it would create additional drag on the transmission because the oil wouldn't get as hot and therefore thin the oils viscosity resulting in less drag. I'm on the complete opposite end of the spectrum, durability and reliability are a lot more important than minuscule amount additional drag that's created by additional oil running at cooler temperature inside the center cases.
  5. Thack82
    I'll post up a few pictures of it when I pick it up to take it to the shop that's Heat treating it and powder coating it for me. I know everybody stoked to see it so it can picked apart and critiqued. The actual frame does differ from the my original print a little, but not much.
  6. Thack82
    Caster was compensated for and corrected. My frame doesn't require a the casting bracket or special custom built pipes or parts. The only parts that are used on this chassis are stock or aftermarket Banshee or YFZR parts. The subframe required a little modding and so did the front bumper, other than that everything from the Banshee or YFZR bolts on without any modification.
  7. Thack82
    The hybrid frame that I designed should be done and ready to be dropped off inBowling Green Kentucky so it can be heat treated and powder coated sometime in the next two weeks. I'll post pictures up of it if anybody is interested. I won't be able to start transplanting everything over from my existing stock frame with MTF Suspension because I need to gather up the money for the extended Stellar Arched Ladder Swingarm and a set of Walsh Racecraft YFZR A-Arms, and the YFZR Fox Float-3 Shocks/Dual Rate Fox Podium Rear Shock before it will be a roller that's ready to go. This new frame is going to be really nice.
  8. Thack82
    I'm not posting this to start a debate or start any trouble. I had had this information and I thought I'd share it with you so you could reference it in the future when the topic is brought up. • Red Frame - 2011 Stock YFZ-450R Frame w/ OEM Subframe = 31.6lbs • Yellow Frame - 2003 Stock YFZ-350 Banshee Frame w/ OEM Subframe = 51.2lbs
  9. Thack82
    You've got some smart ass remark to throw out there every time I post anything and you must be dumb as fuck if you don't understand the concept behind modding the rear crank vent. You just want to explain what I did so you can say stupid shit like "there isn't any heat generated inside the transmission!" or throw out your stupid speculations and theories on a splash lubricated gearbox that's full of bushings and something you obviously don't understand, because if you did you wouldn't have to ask me about it. Your a fucking moron and troll. but for everybody else that was interested I'll elaborate on what I did and how it yielded benefits by lowering my transmission temperatures. The centercases are no different than a tire on hot pavement in the middle of July. As the temperature rises so does the internal pressure. Once the temperature and pressure inside the cases oil is pushed out the vent. I'm sure everybody has over filled their transmission oil at some point in time and had the excess pushed out once the motor came up to normal operating temperatures and wittinessed this for themselves. One of the ways lower transmission temperatures can be achieved is by increasing transmission oil capacity. If the rear crankcase vent is drilled and tapped and a slightly larger crankcase vent spout and check valve is installed it allows a little more internal pressure and heat to escape and additional oil can be added without it being pushed out the vent. Even better results can be seen if the following things below are done in addition to the crankcase vent mod. I've done all of these things and I've gotten great results from each one: • Run Direct Dive Lock-Up Clutch Cover. • Run Synthetic TWO2COOL RTL-2 Transmission Oil • Add 4oz Of ZMAX Micro-Lubricant To Transmission Oil. • Micro-Polishing & Cryogenic Treating Transmission & Clutch Components. • Upgrade Transmission Bearings and Use Primary Drive Gear Bearing. • Run Aftermarket Clutch/Clutch Basket.
  10. Thack82

    Thacker

  11. Thack82
    I must have said something you didn't like because your saying some hatful shit sheerider.
  12. Thack82
    All the intakes used on all the aftermarket cylinders were developed in late 80's. When I started talking to builders about building a 10 mil I was told by more than one of them that once you hit the 10 mil mark the stock Banshee intakes were inadequate.
  13. Thack82
    Maybe my bike will change the way you guys feel about the Cheetah and it's power and performance capabilities. It's not run of the mil Cheetah and willing to do what it takes in order to make it perform at its full capabilities. Damn, where's Cam ATV when I need him.
  14. Thack82
    The slave cylinder hadn't been adjusted in or hooked up yet when that picture was taken.
  15. Thack82
    A cast 535 Cheetah is capable of producing 100hp right out of the box. I was looking for a answer like the port timing is inferior on the Cheetah, or the big 6 bolt intake slow down charge velocity to much, or something a long those lines. The additional expense is a contributing factor I'm sure.
  16. Thack82
    That's the conclusion I e come to anyway. If CP would cast their 10 mil+ Super Serval and Super Cubs with the big six bolt 250R intakes like the Cheetah has they'd be hard setup to beat.
  17. Thack82
    The guys that run Snomobiles will tell you that's like comparing a turbo diesel to a non turbo diesel and that's definitely not the case. What exactly does the 521cc Serval have that makes it a better performer and option than a 535cc Cheetah? The Cheetah is a 26 port mono-cylinder equipped with big six bolt 250R Intakes and a power valve design that's proven to be the elite design on every other Quad, Sled, and PWC that has a reed valve two stroke power pant. The problem with the Cheetah lies with the engine builders and the fact nobody has built a set of pipes that are delveloped for a variable exhaust port timing.
  18. Thack82
    Do you guys know if anybody has ever got Arlen at LED to build a PV Cheetah? He could set up a account with Harry McDermott (McDermott Racing) and purchase the unmolested cast PV Cheetah Cylinders and the rest of the Cheetah Kit like I had Kan Powersport's do for me. The 250R's that are running Arlene's big PV Sphinx Stroker Motors are among the baddest R's out there. He specializes in the big CP PV Motors and I've never heard anybody say or do anything other than rave about the performance and power delivery. As we all know finding happy Cheetah owners are few and far between because almost all of them are botched and doomed right from the start because most of the big name Banshee Engine Builders wont mess with them, and the Banshee Engine Builders that are familiar with the Rotax and YPVS PWC's and Sled's on a regular basis are few and far between. My buddy called Cam at Red Line a few months back and ask him if he would build a Cheetah and Cam said no. It seems like Arlen could be the answer to the Cheetah. If the Trinity Billet Power Valves are a problem he can get a set of the Rotax PV's and machine the slides like he does on the Sphinx Cylinders. He obviously knows his shit when it comes to the porting specifics on cylinders that come equipped with that style power valve and he could build a set of pipes that match the porting and the exact type of riding the customer is planning on doing. Has anybody done this or talked about doing this yet? Harry told me he could get CP to cast the Cheetah Cylinders in any of the bore and stroke configurations that the Cub/Serval, DM, and DMX was available in but it could take up to six months to get it because he wouldn't have it on the shelf, CP would have to cast it for him.
  19. Thack82
    Well I do now, but it was a bitch for while. I run the Streamline Billettainum Hydraulic Clutch Setup and I think it's was discontinued several years ago for a few reasons that I'm getting ready to mention. The first issue was the slave cylinder arm adjustment on both ends had to be screwed all the way out in order to reach the actuator arm and it would come loose every five minutes or less and then you'd have to pull the carbs and air box, take the aluminum salve cylinder bracket loose screw the adjustment arm that backed out back in, hook everything back up, put the carbs and air box back on and you could ride for another 3-5 minutes before it came loose on one side or the other again. You can see how I solved that shitty design flaw that caused the problem below: I just cut the head off a 6mm X 1.25 stainless screw and bought another section of hex stock that had a 6mm thread and coated the 6mm stud and hex stock with red heavy duty Permatex Loc-Tite, tightened everything down, screwed both adjustment arms back in, and that solved that issue. Then cold weather came and that thick mineral oil shit that the come with that they say you have to run to prevent doing damage to the seals and o-rings didn't move fast enough and delayed the shit out of my clutch action. After researching oil capabilities and viscosities for three days I figured out that a cheap non-synthetic ATF was safe for all the o-rings and seals and it was thin enough that cold weather wouldn't have any effect on the action speed. After I got that issue solved I haven't had any other problems or complaints other than it bleeding it can be a bitch if you don't know what your doing. I encountered both issues I had the first month or two I had it, I solved those problems, and its been problem free for the last 7-8 years and I wouldn't even consider going back to a cable. There was a day and time I would have traded somebody for a cable and a OEM Clutch purchase and lever and gave boot because I was so pissed off! If you can find a Streamline now you know what to do to fix it for $5 or less.
  20. Thack82
  21. Thack82
    I don't know how I ended up with that picture or why I didn't notice the intakes hadn't been cleaned up or ported at all. I must have saved that picture for something mistaken it for one of mine at a glance. Anyway I'm sorry for the confusion and posting a picture that wasn't of my cylinders. My intakes can be seen in the picture below:
  22. Thack82
    Are you a little on the slow side? Damn! The OP didn't start a thread named cheapest most cost effective way to lower my engine operating temperatures, did he? No, he wanted to know what we thought made up the "IDEAL COOLING SYSTEM" for a Banshee. I don't know about you but my ideal cooling system doesn't consist of a stock water pump cover that requires a new gasket every time the coolant has to be drained, or a old set of black dry rotted rubber radiator hoses that are somewhere between 11 and 26yrs old! Lol!! That doesn't sound very "ideal" to me. Ideally my ideal cooling system would have all the best components and products available on the market today combined with a few proven tricks and mods that would give me an advantage by providing lower engine operating temperatures. You need to learn to dream big my friend or even better.... improve your reading comprehension before you post something stupid that you didn't take the time to think all the way through in a poor attempt to discredit someone that's light years ahead of you. The crankcase vent mod I came up with to drop the psi inside the center cases and therefore increase oil capacity didn't just drop the transmission temps substantially. It actually made a bigger difference in my over all engine operating temperatures than the oversized aluminum radiator did when used with a Direct Drive Clutch Cover and TWO2COOL RTL-2 Crankcase Oil.
  23. Thack82
    Okay.
  24. Thack82
    I haven't had it on a dyno yet. I don't know what kind of numbers it will produce but I'm very happy with the power and power delivery it produces. I don't have a whole lot of time on the motor yet because I keep doing stupid shit like upgrading my rear brake caliper to a new twin piston version and stuff along those lines. As soon as I get a little extra money gathered up and get it dynoed tuned I'll post the charts for you guys to see. I would like to see horsepower numbers somewhere in the 110-115 range and tq numbers somewhere in the 69-72ft/lb range. I'm running the stock unmodified frame now with a +3 extended heavy duty Metal Tech Fabrication Swingarm and Metal Tech Fabrication Banshee-X XC Long Travel A-Arms. I've been running the R2 Rockets that I have and I plan on swapping the R2's out and trying the R1's I have to see which pipes produce the best power and performance yields with the 10 mil Cheetah Power Plant.
  25. Thack82
    There comes a point when you've got to make that decision, give up and call it day or keep charging forward and throwing money at it. It's obvious which way I went. Lol A lot of the money that I have invested in the motor went towards stuff to increase reliability and engine life. Building a fast 10 mil isn't very hard, building a fast 10 mil that's bullet proof proved to be quite the challenge. As far as I know I've addressed anything and everything that could possibly cause me problems or fail prematurely...... but I'm sure something else will surface that will require attention and possible improvement at some point in time. Lol

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