figuare9

I appreciate all of the input. I think I'm going to give it a shot with the way I originally planned to, with NON-synthetic oil, and switch it back to dominator shortly after. I'll probably buy one quart of yamalube and switch over to the synthetic dominator after the yamalube is gone. I'll probably get a little mean on it after about 10 minutes. Think I at least have an idea now. I don't suppose anyone can link me to a good "checking if you're running lean" thread? Also, a good read on plug chopping would be nice.

lol see this is kind of exactly why I made the thread.. EVERYONE seems to do it a little bit differently. Some people say to never mix oils, some say to run them with synthetic but never to break it in with it. Which contradicts mixing oils.. Others say to easy break them in, others say to beat it. . I'm against running it hard on a rebuild.. Especially in my case.. I'm getting basically a new "everything" so it's not just the rings I need to worry about. Everybody seems to do it a little different, but for the most part, on a completely new motor, what would a good reliable way to break it in? I need this thing to last, not run hard and quit. I'm still looking up things all over the net.. Can't find a consistancy

Gave it a good read, but I'm still kind of unsure of his methods. I don't know. It's hard to say. However, what do you guys think of running the regular "Yamalube" for it in the break - in period, and switching over to Amsoil Synthetic Dominator afterwards?

Thanks for the input

I've seen this here, but I wanted to create a topic because from with all the ways I've heard to break-in a two stroke, I think i MIGHT have an idea. So, if I was to get my motor back, when I'm breaking it in, I would do this. 1: start the motor, let it idle for a bit, give the throttle a few burps every now and then, feel the head until it got warm and shut it off. 2: wait about an hour or so, and repeat the above step, but let it get a little hotter. 3: wait until it's cool again, and this time take it for a ride and get a "little" mean on the throttle. ride for about 10-15 minutes after it's been warmed up. 4: it's done? I've done break ins like this before on smaller motors and they've all seemed to hold up, but besides chain saws and other small engines, what's the best approach for a shee? I've owned nothing but 4 strokes until I got a good deal on my banshee, but I want the motor rebuilt for the summer. I'd really like everyone's opinion here. If it helps, i'm getting a 4 mill stroker. Basically all new internals. FMF Gold Series SST exhaust Closed air filter 1600 ft Elevation 91 octane 32:1 Amsoil synthetic dominator Not sure what head I'll have after the 4 mill

Okay I think I will. I'll give em a shout sometime tomorrow. Thanks for the advice. I was hoping for a quick turn around as well, but i didn't want someone to half ass my motor. I need someone who enjoys doing what they do and someone who's passionate about the kind of work they do; not just someone in it for the money I guess.

What kind of rep does fast and herr jugs have? Any people have any problems with any of the work they've done for them?

I live in northern MN and it's gettin time to rebuild the Shee. 6 years on the motor, but it's finally getting low on compression. runnin about 93 in both cylinders. I'd like to have a fresh rebuild for the years to come. Here's my biggest issue. I want a 4mm, but I also want reliability. When I ride, i go far. It's typically pretty normal to go 100+ miles or so in a trip. Carrying around oil for 1 gallon mixes has been workin for me for a while. lol. If something happens to this thing while in out, i'm stuck miles out, so I don't want someone that's going to throw this together and do a half assed job. I don't want to have a local shop do this because of their rep. but I also don't want to do it myself. Garage has a 67 toronado in it right now and I don't have anywhere near the space I need. If I do go the route of the 4mm, am I going to see any kind of reliability issues? Do people have any problems with them? I'd choose reliability over performance in a heartbeat, but i'm no longer afraid of the banshee, and I think that fear I've gotten from it has always kept me alive lol. Has anyone had a 4mm last a year or two? I know it's probably rare for a banshee to still be running 6 years later after but after this long you start expecting it to never quit. Long story short, I need my motor rebuilt, and I need to be able to count on it. Where's the best place to send it? Also, carbs need to be tuned/rebuilt, to make it more convenient I'd like to send them with as well.

Okay, 2,600. It's for sale on atvriders, but I figured I'd post here too. I gotta get this thing sold! I'm lookin at a nice bike for 2600 and now I really want this thing to sell.

I dropped price to 3k

thanks for the replies. You guys don't think I'm asking too much for it?

Year: 2003 Shape: Perfect. Color: Black/Yellow (Limited Edition) Location: Virginia, MN I'm seeing if I can get rid of my shee. It needs nothing but gas, and I've treated it like a piece of fine china. Everything is stock except for the gold series SST exhaust (I've cut down the Titanium 2 silencers to make them a little bit louder AFTER THESE PICS WERE TAKEN) and tires. I'm sure I'm asking more then it's worth, but I can't get rid of it for less. In fact, if it doesn't sell, its getting waxed and stored in the garage. I've taken very good care of it, and I'm only selling it because I'm an aggressive trail rider/ditch pounder and I can't fill up at a pump. I'm actually starting to miss torque as well. As sad as it is, I'd rather have a 4 stroke. To each his own right? It has aftermarket ITP rims, but I do have the original exhaust and the tires/rims. 3,200 FIRM, accepting trades ONLY for LTR 450, DS 450, Raptor 700, KFX 450. I will not accept a trade unless the wheeler is in the same shape as the shee I'm selling.

What silencers do you have? that thing sounds sick

thanks a bunch for the help. I'll send it out for porting some time soon. I'll probably get a hold of FAST and see what they can do for me. I'm worried about reliability though too. Just because I want a fast machine, doesn't mean I'm willing to sacrifice hp for reliability. I've got 6 years on this motor and it still runs like a champ, I just think it's time to do a rebuild. It's nice knowing that when my friends come back up north where I live, I can go turn the key, and kick it twice and have a nice running machine. What kind of problems may I have as far as reliability with a +4 with a woods porting job and cool head? Has anyone run these for a long time? I typically ride almost every day for at least a little while, and normally on weekends all day. I really really don't want to spend over a grand to have it run amazing for a month and have issues. Not that I'm saying it will, but I'm worried about leaving stock stock settings for aftermarket ones. Bottom line question is what kind of reliability will I have with a stroker? Can I count on it lasting another 6 years? haha At least 1-2.

I'm ONLY looking to do what I need to, in order to properly run a +4. Bare minimum for the performance. Currently, it has a team ALBA folded air filter, FMF SST pipes, with cut Titanium 2 silencers. That's it.

I've heard not to go through trinity, so I'm now asking you guys for help. 6 Years on the shee motor, and it's running about 93 on the compression test. . . Sad right? Supposed to be around what 140 ish? (Stock) I can't complain though. Never had a 4 stroke last this long in my life. Blew my 450 up in 3 months. Can't seem to pop the 350 dually! I've decided to rebuild it, before something breaks. If I'm rebuilding, I want a +4. Exactly what parts do I need? Where do I start? etc. Do I need a new head? any porting? jetting, etc. Even if you can give me links to each part I need would be great. I've read the thread here of why trinity's bad, so where else would I buy a stroker kit? or the parts that I need. Walk me through this like I'm retarded, because this is my first two stroke motor and I'm still learning. Thanks!

I found a forum topic about it already, I just wasn't searching the right way. Sorry lol

I have a set of titanium 2's from FMF and they're longer than all hell. I was wondering what the advantages are of cutting them to shorty size is, and if it's easy. What are the benefits and disadvantages? Do I loose backpressure? is it worse to have shorter silencers? Also, if I were to do this, is there a guide anywhere or can someone give me some pretty detailed instructions?

I was thinking about getting the T6 silencers.. but would that be okay to get with the fmf sst's I have now?

drag pipes? really? lol How do you pull the spark arresters out?

How does someone go about making their banshee louder? I'm not trying to be the obnoxious kid on the block with the loudest wheeler either. All of my friends ride 450's. A single slip on makes them soo loud, I can't race them, or ride close because I can't hear my own quad. I've got FMF Gold series, with titanium 2 silencers. Everyone tells me it sounds like a hyped up RC car. I just want something louder, but I dont want to take out packing, or cut my silencers etc. I don't want to sacrifice reliability in any way shape or form. I've got 6 years on my motor, and it's never fouled a plug. I'd like to keep it that way, but make it actually sound like it's as fast as it is. is there a spark arrestor or anything in the silencers that keeps them quiet? Is it because they're soo long that its quiet? Anyone know of anyone that makes a louder silencer? And finally, can I put different silencers on the bike and still have the same reliability? To sum it up, the shee needs to be louder.. How do I do that lol

It's amazing... I pulled the filter off and looked at it.. it was cleaner then hell.. or at least looked clean. I washed it out, threw it back in, and the fuckin thing runs even better than it did when i bought it. I've got an alba filter and sock, but I pulled it off yesterday and it was clean.. I barely got anything out of it. It's amazing how something as little as that could cause my banshee to BARELY run on top end. I guess it wasn't getting enough air. Thanks for the help though I really appreciate it. I never bothered with it yesterday because of how clean it looked. I think what really was my problem was the sock though. It seemed to be pretty dirty. Didn't even think about it being the filter. I come from a loooong line of four strokes, and I've seen them run fine without being serviced for years. I get a little bit of dirt in my filter and I gotta come crying to you guys. I hope the rest of this year I won't have to worry about tiny things like that. Looks like the filter's gettin cleaned more than my Raptor 700. PS.. How long do these motors run? This one is still going strong at 6 years now on stock plugs lol. If it ain't pinned, it's parked.

oem plugs? anything special, or just match the model number?

What do the stock carb tops WITH tor look like? I have a feeling it may have already been done. My carb's look normal, and there isn't a single wire going into/out of them. I bought it with the cable above the left cylinder already unplugged, and I thought the the TORS has wire going to the carb tops, also, how do I check my pickup?

What's the best way to clean the air filters? soap water? I know they need to be oiled, can I use regular synthetic two stroke oil for them?