benb5241

Haha, yeah, I double checked, the powerbands are in the right way and I only have a single carb so no screwing up which way the slides go in. Right now I'm leaning towards the coil just by process of elimination and I just tested it and it failed the ohms test between the secondary circuits as said in the Clymer manual.

Ok guys, like the title says, for some reason my powerband is disappearing. It will go out after I've ridden it for about a minute then it is just pure bog and smokes a lot where it was. Idles great but after idle, about where the powerband kicks in, there is nothing. It runs through where the powerband was but smokes a lot and there isn't any power and I have to let the Banshee sit for about a day for it to come back, and it only does so for about a minute. I just put this together and it ran great through the break in period, but after I broke it in and was riding regularly the powerband quit pretty much when I was out riding. I had to idle it back home. Things I have done are: played with the jetting, cleaned the carb, cleaned the air filter, changed spark plugs, cleaned the carb again, took my exhaust out, since it had been sitting in a barn for about a year and determined nothing had built a nest in it, I'm out of ideas on what this can be guys. It's a 96 so it doesn't have a parking break and the tors is disconnected.

Update, still didn't get it working but I played with the jets quite a bit and was swapping plugs the entire time.

Ok guys, got it all put together. Really like it, ran awesome during break in. I had it jetted a little rich during break in just to make sure everything was lubed alright. Only one size though. Anyways it ran great during that time, then when I leaned my jetting by one, because the plugs read rich, it wants to fall on its face when it gets hot. I cleaned the carb, checked the reeds, did a compression check and put new plugs in. If anyone has any ideas I'd appreciate it, and I am not sure if the jetting change is just coincidence or not. Thanks for any help.

30 dollars shipped is a little too much for me, thanks though.

First thing I am going to tell you is to get a Clymer's Service Manual for the bike, a ton of your questions will be answered if you read through it. When you are working on these bikes, it is a must have. They are all over the internet for sale if you search. Dont pay more than 30 dollars for one. When your doing a compression test, make sure you have a good tester for one. But for your readings, kick it until it stops going up, throttle wide open, then kick it over with the tester in the other cylinder that many times also. If you really wanna do it accurately, do it a few times and get your average of each cylinder. 75psi is pushing it for something to run, so lets just hope you didn't test it right, no offense. As for it not running, since you said they are all black it just sounds like your plugs are fouled, replace them and I bet it would fire up. They could have gotten fouled if your jetting is off, as has been mentioned, which would make it hard to start.

Hey guys, like the title says, I just want an airbox lid. Mine is shot and I ride in somewhat wet conditions and would like one. Has to be in good shape of course. Rather it not have any holes drilled in it or anything but I could probably work with that. Thanks.

Agreed, it is an eye sore. I read the first couple lines of his post, and I saw getting your point across. If you want to get your point across, do so without all caps and in a mature intelligible way. People will read it and respond accordingly. Just please, for the sake of anyone reading this thread, take the caps off if you respond again. Im not trying to be mean or bashing or anything, I am just asking. Just for the reference, I know I quoted Tyler, but this is being directed at Jr. Fields

Honestly, if you get them dialed in they will just keep going just as anything. I think that its more user error than anything that causes two strokes to go down, at least thats my experience. Ive been abusing my blaster for quite some time on the same top end and it is doing good. My friend has never replaced the top end in his banshee and hes had it for about 7 years. Granted, he probably only rides it for a total of about 15 hours or so each year, but still. And even if something is old, it depends on what has been replaced on it and what is a common part that fails after a lot of riding. A two stroke can definitely run as long as a four stroke without breaking down, but when comparing the two, you have to take out human error also, which is nearly impossible. Just my .02

Yamaha in Europe has a 2010 model Banshee too. I'm not sure if the Banshee has a 2010 model in Mexico, though.

The drum spins perfectly without the forks installed. I think I am going to put the motor in the frame, hook the chain up to it, jack the end up, spin the tires and see how it shifts then. If it still shifts like crap, Ill split the motor again and see if anything is up. I don't want this thing dying on the first ride, I want everything to work good.

Ok, thanks guys, I really appreciate it. I guess I will just put everything back together and see how it goes. I'll update the thread if I have any problems. Thanks all!

Yeah, forks are in the right place, I followed the clymer manual to the t. I never did spin it before I split it, I got it with a bad crank and never spun it or checked shifting, the engine was out of the frame when I got it. I really should have checked the shifting, but kind of tore into it and forgot too

Ok, like the title says, I put my shift drum and forks in and when I try and go through shifting even without the gears in it binds, bad forks, drum, or what. With the halves together and the gears in place I tried turning the motor like its in motion since its a constant mesh transmission as you all know, still didn't work. I'm stuck and need a bit of help, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

O jeez I should have said that, the clutch springs were all in perfect shape. Whatever it is, it definitely is what ran through the gears. Actually, all I need is someone's stock basket that is shot but the gear is good on, then I could drill the rivets out and put the gear on the basket, since it is a Hinson basket and the gear is removable on those, it is just bolted on. Thanks for the tip on the water impeller, is it safe to use the billet one or should I just be buying a new one? The only parts that were damaged were the ones in my pictures, surprisingly. Thanks for the info on the kick start assembly too.

Thanks! I never did find that, I was searching for single carb jetting and variations of that. Thanks again I appreciate it!

I actually did search, that was the first thing I did, it didn't come up with anything, so I asked the question here. It may have been covered many times on here and the information is on here, but to find it with the search engine is another story.

Anyone know where that little ring came from in my last picture? It fell out of the clutch side cover when I took it off.

Ok guys, I am wondering what my jetting should be, give me a ballpark range to get me started. I have a trinity 2 into 1 setup with a pwk 36mm carb. Its got fmf pipes and silencers and a k&n filter. Someone ported it, I have no clue whether it is good or bad or what kind of porting was done. The kid that had it before me blew the engine riding it when it was about 10 degrees out. It has a 190 main and a 52 pilot in it. Thanks

Hey, guys, just bought a set off ebay friday. Thanks

Ok, completely tore apart the engine, found some surprises. As I am taking off my cover, some piece of metal falls out, looks like a clip of some sort, completely mangled. I have no clue where it came from or where it goes. It was steel so I got afraid. Then ,basically, somehow, the clutch managed grind up against the cover, at least the bolts did, because they stick out the farthest. I though, no big deal, aluminum versus steel, steel wins of course, all the internals pretty much are steel, no biggie. Then, I take a look at the clutch basket and see the big gear towards the rear of the basket has a gouge in the same place in all the teeth. Not good obviously. On the gear that is behind but still on the clutch basket, there is a gouge in one of the teeth. Like I said, I will update with pictures later. Other than those mishaps, it looks like no one has taken the transmission apart so thats a good thing. I cleaned everything out, figured out the carb was jetted at 190 and pilot of 52, and it died during 10 degree weather, idk if that is lean or not, kind of sounds like it to me. O, one more thing, the billet water pump inpeller, it's ruined, whoever put a new seal in when they replaced the pump pushed it in too much, it put too much pressure on the shaft of the impeller, and wore grooves in it, not your normal, like probably 1/8" deep, so it is shot. Here are the pics.

Isn't 22cc pretty much equivalent to stock sizes? I wanna bump compression enough to safely run on 91 octane at about 500ft asl.

Hey guys just like the title says, I'm looking for a set of 21cc cool head domes, Thanks

Right, but in the end, the piston did get clobbered, as did the head on one side, even if it was by the metal fragments of the bearing going ou. The shrapnel from the rod bearing going out also took out at least one main crank bearing, as its almost impossible to turn over, no matter where you are at. Thanks for the advice, I'll be sure to either look for one that is already trued and welded or get it done if it isnt. Thanks. As for the jetting, I will have to check what it has in it when I get home to make sure.

It's got some sort of port on it, looks like it came from hell though, not smooth at all, Im going to take some measurements and eye it over real good when I get home friday to see if it is shit or not. I also have fmf gnarley pipes, open airbox with k&n filter, and vforce3 reeds. Other than that, performance wise its stock. I just want some carbs that can feed a mild port job with my setup, maybe a pipe upgrade.