fastbanshee199

i did also use the hd springs as well and im thinking about putting my factory ones back in to see if that helps

a few weeks i ago i bought a cascade innovations hd clutch kit and the guy i ordered it through said to leave the rubber cushions out and that i wont need them. Is this true? I searched this and everything im finding is that i dont need them with aftermarket clutches. I replaced the clutch cable also with a motion pro one but the problem im having with my clutch is when the bike is cold and i pull the clutch in it will drag like im not pulling the clutch in at all. i aligned the arrows on top of the engine as well and then adjusted the cable. the cable stud is almost adjusted all the way out and it still does this. i verified that the cable was the correct length and everything but im not sure what else to do at this point. i cant run the bike right now as i have the cylinders off and getting ready to ship them to hjr on monday for a top end rebuild kit, bore and hone, and he's also doing his aggressive mx port to the cylinders as well. Thanks for any help guys

Why did he remove the front brakes????

Ha Ha! Hold a dealership responsible? Your kidding right? Since when are motorcycle dealerships responsible lol

Definetly going on my Christmas list!

i run spectra golden gear lube SAE 80. I'm in az and it shifts great with it. Clutch is still pretty new that i bought from cascade innovations. Pretty much all desert riding hear and forest roads up north.

id say have the newer frame powder coated and transfer parts over.

things like altitude and where your located with outside temps will greatly help with replies........

+2. ratv is way over priced. i just called for pricing on a port job mx/trail style and they wanted 400 plus boring my cylinders for 90 bucks. im doing a top end rebuild and they want like 240 for the top end kit plus some crap. no thanks. im sending mine to kevin at HJR. they also told me it didnt matter what pipes i had on the bike either. they charged me 120 for stock carb kn pods and 110 for a damn tors elim kit!

will it make a difference if the bike is warmed up? before i deleted tors i checked the compression to see where it was at and it was at 90 psi then. the bike ran perfectly fine and would start on first kick. i cant warm the bike up and do a compression test because i cant even get it to fire. and yes they smell like fuel

* edit* i did make sure the black choke line was connected and no cracks in it also. i also checked for any holes in the intake manifolds too. i also checked reed plates and they look fine also.

Alright so I deleted the tors system. I disconnected the brain box, removed the harness that goes to the throttle and put in the kit. i drilled and tapped the carbs for the idle screws. i had to get another set of carbs from a friend that i got for free because im currently un-employed. my orignal carbs when i installed them the bike ran but very shitty. so i put the new carbs in but rebuilt them. i didnt replace the the slide needles but i replaced the pilot jet and it has 280 mains in it right now. only mods done are toomey t5's, and pod filters. i checked for spark and its getting spark. i did a compression test and cold it has about 90psi on both cylinders. i cant for the life of me get the bike to fire. the air screws are turned out about 1 1/2. the clutch harness is still hooked up but the bike wont fire with the cutch pulled in or out. ive tried carb spary thinking maybe its not getting fuel but it still wont fire and i know for a fact that both cylinders are getting spark as i double checked them. I appreciate your help guys

i sent you a reply.

I need a set of stockers. I was in the middle of putting my tors delete kit on and when i tapped the carbs for the idle screws i stripped the new holes. id prefere to buy some that have already had the tors deleted so i dont mess up another pair