stroking

i installed this intake kit for someone today and he said the guy he bought it from said it would give a 8-10 hp gain. i think he was lied too.

i have a stock cub here that lost compression and when i tore it down i founf this. the nik coating is trashed on both sides but one piston looks like it was going to melt into the exhaust. who recoats cub cylinders at a good price ?

maybe a stock frame is the way to go sure looks like a fast past to me

i use one bottle fill of premix to every gallon of gas or alcohol it's my measuring cup. its a 6oz bottle i like alittle extra oil in my fuel for safety

HEY i found some oil thats pretty fare priced,but i need to know if it will mix will alcohol before i use it.

also i'm thinking about removing the power valve and epoxying the open spaces up. now would that be a good idea or should i leave the valve in ? this valve closes the triple ports and makes the exhaust port smaller when it is at idle and opens at higher rpms,but my cub looks the same except for the power valves and it runs hard so im thinking the power valve will slow me down some. what do you think ?

OK IM BUILDING A kx 250 motor to put on a blaster frame....drag only bike,now i have two cylinders,but one is a 2003 the other a 1995 the 95 has alot bigger triple exhaust ports than the 2003,now which of the two do you think will make the best drag cylinder ? look at the difference in size of the ports both intake look the same

this is a very good answer!! and it stands to reason that a longer arm can and will cause a power loss....though the loss may not be what i was told,there is still a loss. and i only run pavement.

this is a very good answer!! and it stands to reason that a longer arm can and will cause a power loss....though the loss may not be what i was told,there is still a loss. and i only run pavement.

I was told that the longer you make the swing the more power you lose!! now i'd like to know if there is any truth to this........one guy said you lose 3-5 hp for every 3"s you add to it. if this is true i have a +12 thats probably costing my alot of power. what do you think?

its true a 70hp 450 will beat a 70hp banshee all day long

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i have a very nicely chromed +12 swinger for sale...CHEAP.....only $245 shipped i'm selling because i can't get it to hook up,i'm using small hoosiers 18" and don't want to switch out for bigger tires so swinger must go. i'll also trade for a shorter swinger

i may have the linkage set wrong also. i have it set to the lowest point

when i ride it,and sometimes it wont go in to the next gear unless i let off the gas alittle...the tranny was cut by wickedatv. i had rottela t 30w oil in there,but i want to try something different. and i tried ATF awhile back and it fired my clutch.

ok the paper that came with the override said to run 5-30 oil,but that seem kinda thin,what oil works best for you guys ??

i know some one needs a long one!!

is it better to use a modded shift star on a override or the stock one ? it feels alittle notchy.

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like it said,i need a plus +7-8 should work better for you sand dragger,but it spins to much for me on pavement.

i had someone tell me that he tried 220psi in 1/8mile drag vs 180psi and the ET. times went up with the 180psi....(it got slower with the 180psi) IF the power go's up with higher compression it may be a (good) trade off...afew rpms for more power in a lower range.

if its a 1.30" then thats your problem i had one that was 1.10" and it was bogging REALLY BAD.

what is the reason for using BR9ES plugs on alcohol ?? what does these plugs do over the BR8ES

RICHEN UP the needle ONE CLIP and turn the timing up to +10 and hold on TIGHT!!! i have on that i just built and had the same lowend lag with +4timing....i turned it to +12 and WOW!!!....IT will flip completly over if your not careful on the launch.....but that motor runs alcohol so if your on race gas try +7/+10