kawa110

i asked a similiar question today in the sticky thread "leakdown test" page 3.----- After i perorm leakdown tests on by shee and the 250 i want to do compression test i have the guage with the correct sparg plug thread hose, does anyone know the prpoer way to do the test/or know a link? I test the shee cylinders seperate yes? If the cyclinders areant seperate via the crank how will the comp test read per cylinder? and for the single cylinder how many times to turn it over? QUOTE (black sunshine @ May 27 2009, 02:02 PM) 6psi for 6 min is the recommended test.----leakdown test For compression, take out both plugs, turn ignition and gas off, hold the throttle wide open and kick until the gauge quits climbing. Quote (kawa110 @ May 27 2009) sounds good. 6psi for single cylinder?(all engines?, i have klx110 and eventually ill test it) Just kick until stops climbing 3 kicks or 12 kicks it wont matter?

bump............so far im highly considering the douglas ultimate sc wheels int the rear ill get 10x8 and 10x5 in the front as for tires i think (im not sure i havnt received any feedback on any), maxxis all trak(if i can get in 4 or 6 ply, kenda kutters, and maxxis m944

sounds good. 6psi for single cylinder?(all engines?, i have klx110 and eventually ill test it) Just kick until stops climbing 3 kicks or 12 kicks it wont matter?

6 pounds in 6 mins. just a few ???'s Does it matter were the pistons sit in the cylinder I.E. top or bottom dead center? Should i perform the tesk with the tranny fluid drained? Well i guess the tranny seperate so that dont matter. Also DONT put more then 6 pounds yes? I have a 1978 yz250 i just got all my final gaskets im going to put them in and am going to do a test. Is 6 pounds a good number for this motor? It is only one cylinder and only a 250cc. After i perorm leakdown tests on by shee and the 250 i want to do compression test i have the guage with the correct sparg plug thread hose, does anyone know the prpoer way to do the test/or know a link? I test the shee cylinders seperate yes? If the cyclinders areant seperate via the crank how will the comp test read per cylinder? and for the single cylinder how many times to turn it over?

anyone ever used kenda kutter xc k581? just stumbled across i kinda like these. Only available in 9 inch rim on the website i found em on. These have now been added to my list of consideration.

i can get the ultimate sc douglas rims in a 10x8 for rear and a 10x5 for front on douglas website. On the rmatv website i can only find the ultimate with beadlock(to pricey) im sure if i called i could get price without.

Cool thanks

ya im gunna use 10x10 in back. what size you have in front? how far is your rim offset or dished in front? I do ride in some pretty rocky area so i think a 22 just for clearance. Are your rear rims offset? Do you know wher i can get the red label with rolled lip? Would it be allright ir you post some pics or your shee from the front and the back so i can get a idea of how much wider it is? The type of tires im looking for need to have some good lugz but not to bad so they dont get ripped off on hard pack or rocks. i have been looking at maxxis all traks m9209(i can only find in 2ply), maxxis m944(look to much like a stock tire i think, not sure if they will wear well), kenda 535(not sure if ill get ht or st but they dont come in 10inch and the st only come 18inch, prolly no on these), itp quad cross(only 18 inch),carlisle turftamers(i remember my buddy had em on his shee and they were great on hard but not in soft sand or washes), and itp holshot xct(kinda pricey). HELP!!!!!!!! hahaha. Well im saving for the rims im going to buy a cheap set of kenda scorpians to ride through and tear up. I had a pair on a yamaha 225dr/x 3-wheeler. The tires help up good. (not in the wahes and soft sand though). I ride all over the desert from sandy washes to glamis like sand pits to volcanic rock covried mountains to flat dry lake beds. I have paddles for when i go to glamis, i just need some good tires for bashing around this here desert.

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can i get douglas red labels with a rolled lip? I am considering changing rim size to a 10 inch, will this reduce tire roll? IS ther a advantage to 10inch? I also am going to get some maxxis all traks i am unsure to go with a 20 inch or a 22 inch. Will 22 inch bog me down? If i get 10 inch rims ill have a little less side wall and less tire roll. I was also considering getting the rims offset to make the shee jsut a little wider. for the front im still unsure on tire type, i know i want red labels up front, do i change rim size in front if i change back? Any suggestions for me? i like the itp quadcross tires but they only seem to come in 18inch. douglas red labels either 9x9(i think thats stock) or 10x9 pro-cons pro-cons of changing rim size in front 22" or 20" in rear pro and cons I do alote of riding in so cali. Johnson Valley(google it) And alote of desert racing/bashing. Lots of nasty desert terrain around me, everything from rocks, whoops, rocky hillclimbs, drylake beds to silt. just no mud sometimes its fun to go to the dry lake beds after it rains, but cleaning the muddy bike is always fun.

ya i was wondering the same thing, i got my pipes used and they have kevlar and skin melted to them. The oooo steel wool wont take the finish of the pipe? were would i get steel wool like that?

get some pipes, intake, and jet it. just add paddles for dunes. If your guna ride hard desert consider some armor. Skid plates case saver. for glamis youll need a flag and flag mount.

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can i get douglas red labels with a rolled lip? I am considering changing rim size to a 10 inch, will this reduce tire roll? IS ther a advantage to 10inch? I also am going to get some maxxis all traks i am unsure to go with a 20 inch or a 22 inch. Will 22 inch bog me down? If i get 10 inch rims ill have a little less side wall and less tire roll. I was also considering getting the rims offset to make the shee jsut a little wider. for the front im still unsure on tire type, i know i want red labels up front, do i change rim size in front if i change back? Any suggestions for me? douglas red labels either 9x9(i think thats stock) or 10x9 pro-cons pro-cons of changing rim size in front 22" or 20" in rear pro and cons I do alote of riding in so cali. Johnson Valley(google it) And alote of desert racing/bashing. Lots of nasty desert terrain around me, everything from rocks, whoops, rocky hillclimbs, drylake beds to silt. just no mud sometimes its fun to go to the dry lake beds after it rains, but cleaning the muddy bike is always fun.

thers a "shifting mechanism adjust bolt" in ther that has a locknut and lockwasher, that might need adjust. Right behind the oil seal thers a return spring then a spacer. Hopefully that spacers in ther. I got a clymer banshee reapir/service manual m486-6 i dont know if you got one or not but pg 170.

can i get douglas red labels with a rolled lip? I am considering changing rim size to a 10 inch, will this reduce tire roll? IS ther a advantage to 10inch? I also am going to get some maxxis all traks i am unsure to go with a 20 inch or a 22 inch. Will 22 inch bog me down? If i get 10 inch rims ill have a little less side wall and less tire roll. I was also considering getting the rims offset to make the shee jsut a little wider. for the front im still unsure on tire type, i know i want red labels up front, do i change rim size in front if i change back? Any suggestions for me? douglas red labels either 9x9(i think thats stock) or 10x9 pro-cons pro-cons of changing rim size in front 22" or 20" in rear pro and cons

how far can you push it in/ pull it out? enough to think thers a missing bearing/spacer/c-clip?

Sorry I went to google and they have a shopping link at top then i typed in universal heel guards. That should work or maybe this-- http://www.google.com/products?q=universal...=en&show=dd

Im looking for a solution to aftermarket heel guards(W/or without footpegs). Does anyone know if these-- http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4/23/...&zmap=10400 will work or be made to work with stock footpegs or even if i have to buy a pair of IMS foot or something? I did notice that they say ther designed with some nerf bar brands but if these universal ones dont work my final solution is to bite the money bullet and get AC black lines with nerfs.(i dont want nerfs) I also saw a pair of alloy GYTR heel guards on a 450/660/700 it was mare then half way taken apart in a local shop. Has anyone seen these or know if they will work? Wow i dint know the link would be that long.

Im looking for a solution to aftermarket heel guards(W/or without footpegs). Does anyone know if these-- http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4/23/...&zmap=10400 will work or be made to work with stock footpegs or even if i have to buy a pair of IMS foot or something? I did notice that they say ther designed with some nerf bar brands but if these universal ones dont work my final solution is to bite the money bullet and get AC black lines with nerfs.(i dont want nerfs) I also saw a pair of alloy GYTR heel guards on a 450/660/700 it was mare then half way taken apart in a local shop. Has anyone seen these or know if they will work? Wow i dint know the link would be that long.

well my k&n pods cost me like 65$ i would recomend using ther cleaning product or dishsoap(ive used dishsoap on foam filters works great) But i wouldnt scrub it, the original directions say not to scrub, just knock the execss dirt loose go riding until you get cleaner. :cool:

More upset about losing the keychain that was with the key. I looked around on how to hot wire, alote of the forums said "put the to small wires together and the same with the big wires" others said"put the red and the black with stripe together" and other variations. I want to be able to put a new key swith on but under seat or something(hidakey) but for now i hotwired the existing ignition, all i had to do was put the black w/white stripe with the black wire(these wires are connected to the ignition not the harness of the bike). I accidently pulled the red wire out of connection after i cut it now knowing, i just stuffed it back and didnt even splice it back(its just hanging) i left the brw wire alone. Seems to work fine. Now to get a nice chrome hidakey and new key swith.

Ya the new gaphics wont cover the majority of rear plastics and just a little on front nose. I dont like armor all after one little putt-putt around the yard the bike looks filthy with armor all. I just needed to know wht i could do to the plastics like some kinda of plastic re-new or if anyone had experience with any products similiar to it. Ya i was gunna use windex so i could slide em around into place. I got the skin industies freeride. Im jsut waiting tell i get a better staple gun for the seat cover. Also should i leave old seatcover on and put new one over or take it off and store away. I have a 1978 yz250 all the people who see it thinks is cool that it has original seat cover.

I got my skin ind graphics, im going to remove old ones, thats not a problem. Im curious to know what i should clean/wax/or polish my plastics. what is the best way to make the plastics look "new" without using armor-all? After i get the plastics nice and new and shiny im going to install the graphics. I have to make sure i dont use any compounds where the new graphics go or the may not adhere.

I do alote of desert bashing and i need a casesaver, doesnt matter if new or used.