rigger

I am cutting them because they just do not grab any ground the way they are. They are just a hard tire with a lot of nobs and they are all so close together. I have a buddy that use to run 250Rs with this tire and he had the same problem with tire spin. He had some buddies that ran it too but they cut the tire and it was night and day difference in hook up. I can't seem to get pictures to post on here, but I will take a couple of pictures and if someone else can post then, then you can see what I am doing.

Was in Lowes today and picked up a pair of Kobalt 10" concreters nippers. They are just 10" wire cutters that are turned 90 degrees at the end. I have Pure Sport Bandet XC on the rear of my Banshee and I have been wanting to cut them for a while to see if I could get them to bite a little better. Well I took the cutters and started chopping off lugs. They work great and were only like $17. Just thought I would pass the cheap tire cutting tool idea along. Just in case you are wondering, I am cutting off all of the angled nobs on the tire and every third center lug. Not sure yet if I am going to cut the side angled nobs off but I think I am. I am going to cut the others first and see how it looks.

Do the YFZ calipers bolt right on? If you could get a complete YFZ front brake set up for $50, that would be a great deal if they are that much stronger. I will have to keep an eye for some.

I have a 00' Banshee. Front brakes work pretty good but nothing like my 04' 400EX. On the Banshee, I just put new front brake pads on her, cleaned the rotors up and bleed the the system to get fresh fluid and any air out. They work fine but it is more like a four finger pull to get them to really come down hard and lock up the front wheels. Compared to my 400EX, she is a light two finger pull and she will lock up the front wheels. I know steel braded brake lines would help some. What else can I do to get the front brakes to be stronger and feel a little more like what is on my 400?

wish my banshee looked that good.

Does running a Honda thumb throttle really make that much of a difference? I would kind of like to stay with a thumb throttle just cause that is what I am use to on an atv. Guess I could pull the one off of my 400ex and just try it to see what it feels like. I just thinking that after a long trail ride that a twist throttle would be a lot less tiring.

Was thinking of maybe putting a twist throttle on my Banshee since the stock thtottle is so stiff. I ride mostly rough trails that are normally whooped out pretty good. How well does a twist work for riding in the woods or should I just stick with the stock throttle? I grew up on bikes so a twist throttle is something that I am use to. Only rode one twist throttle on a 300ex but that was a long time ago. On the 300, I did not really like it but I only rode it for a few minutes so I really did not give it a chance. Any goods or bads to twist on a banshee in ridden in the trails? I have heard some people say they felt like they did not have good control with a twist. Is that true? Just looking for opinions. And I know they will all be different.

Tried to re-size a few pictures but I can't get them to up-load. I got them down 50% and it still says the file is to big. How can I post the pictures on here?

I will try and shoot a couple of pictures of it this weekend and post them so you can see what it looks like. I think it looks much better, even on an old beat up Banshee like mine.

I took my head lights off the other day and liked the way it looked with out them. But I did not like the big ass mounts sticking up. I thought they were ugly. Last night, after a couple of beers, I said to hell with the lights and mounts. I cut the light mounts off of the frame, cleaned up the area and shot a little paint on the shock mounts. After I put the fenders back on, and stood back to take a good look, I decieded that I really like it a lot better now. It is just much cleaner looking with out the old banged up head lights and those big ass brakets gone. Now I just need to get rid of all the extra switches on the handle bars. Is it easy to take off the head light and kill switch or is it more of a pain than what iti is worth dealing with the wiring harness. I would like to have nothing but a push button type of kill switch like is on a dirt bike. But I would like to keep a working key switch just for when I want to take the key out and have that little bit of security.

Ok, now that I have seen a couple of pictures on them, I have to agree. I do not like the way it looks on the Banshee. It just looks like it takes away from the machine in the front end. I do kind of like the Raptor rear plastics but not the front. Thanks for the input guys.

Eventually I am going to do a frame up restoration of my Banshee and new plastics will go on her when I do that. I was looking on e-bay for fenders and ran acros the Maier fenders that look kind of like a Raptor. They are the race cut front end. What do you guys think of the looks of the Raptor style race cut front end on the Banshee? I saw a picture of one with the full front fenders and it just did not look right to me. Or should I just stick with something that looks a little more like the traditional Banshee? Anybody got any pictures of the Raptor stlye plastics on the Banshee and could post them, that would be great. Thanks for the opinions guys.

Eventually I am going to do a frame up restoration of my Banshee and new plastics will go on her when I do that. I was looking on e-bay for fenders and ran acros the Maier fenders that look kind of like a Raptor. They are the race cut front end. What do you guys think of the looks of the Raptor style race cut front end on the Banshee? I saw a picture of one with the full front fenders and it just did not look right to me. Or should I just stick with something that looks a little more like the traditional Banshee? Anybody got any pictures of the Raptor stlye plastics on the Banshee and could post them, that would be great. Thanks for the opinions guys.

I have looked on ebay and shoped around other places on line. Since I work for a Yamaha Outboard dealership, I can order any Yamaha part at cost from them directly. From what I have priced on line, not e-bay, Maier and Fullbore plastics were like $600. My price on new Yamaha plastics at my cost would be less than $300 for new stuff. But I will still shop e-bay hard when and if I replace my plastics cause I like some of the other plastics better. I just need to find out the color codes so if I do order new Yamaha plastics, I will get the right color.

My 2000 Banshee plastics are a bit rough. I wold like to get all new black plastics for her. I can order Yamaha parts though my work, I work for a Yamaha outboard dealersheip and I can also order Yamaha atv parts as long as I have the right part number. I was looking at the micro fish that you can look at on line to get the part numbers and prices. I looked up the 06' Banshee because they had that one in black. But they also had blue, white, and yellow. On the part numbers, it is hard to tell what is the black plastic. Does anybody know how I can identify the part number for the black plastics? I hate to order plastics for it and they come it the wrong color. That would suck. www.mrcycles.com is the site that I was looking at for the part numbers. You can pull up just about any machine. Any body that could help with this would be great.

Well I did not win the bid so I just ordered some Tusk nerfs from Rocky Mountain. Got a couple of other little things too and was able to use a $20 off cupon to save a few more dollars. Hope I like them, never seen them in person but they look decent for the money and I have heard people say good things about them.

Well I went to order the Alba nerfs for $89 and just my luck, they are out of stock. So then I was going to get a set of Tusk nerfs from Rocky Mountain. Then I just found a set of Magnum Pro Peg nerfs on e-bay. Bid on them and if I win, I will get them for just over a hundred bucks with shipping. Hope they are a decent nerf bar cause I have never heard of them. But I have one bent foot peg so these will help replace that problem. In a couple of hours, I will see if I got them or not. With the kind of luck I have with most stuff, I will win the bid and a bunch of you guys are going to write me and tell me they a crap.

Just looked those up on the Alba site. They have them on sale for $89.00 Might have to just get some of those. They look pretty good on your Banshee. Do they seem to be pretty strong? I am a woods rider so they will be put againts trees. Thanks for the pictures guys. It is really nice to see them on the Banshee.

Who likes what nerf bars and why for under $150. I have seen the tusk bars for like $100. Have seen some AC racing for like $150. Jordenline for around $100-120. And a few others in that price range. Looking for a good budget priced nerf bar that looks good and works well for under $150. If you have any pictures of them on your quad and could post them, that would be great because I have had a hard time finding good pictures of nerf bars on Banshees. Thanks

Well I started with a full 3 gallon tank. Rode the 20 miles. Put a little less than 2 gallons back in her today. So you could say you have about a 10-11 mpg average trail riding. I am assuming the reserve is about a 1/2 gallon so if that is true then I should be able to get atbout 25 miles of trails before hitting reserve.

Well I ran a 20 mile trail yesterday and did not hit reserve. It has got to be close though. That was jut trail ridding, playing around and getting on the pipe where the trail allowed. I will put fuel back in her today and see what it really used to judge an average distance for trails. When I do, I will let you guys know what I find it to be.

Well took the new/used Banshee out for her first ride today. Just brought her home a couple of weeks ago and gave it a good going through. Replaced what was needed to get her up and rideable again. A buddy of mine on his 400EX, my wife on my 400EX and me on the Banshee. We rode and good rough beat up set of trails and had a good time. I had always heard everybody talk about how bad the Banshee was for trail riding. Now I really think that I could blow the doors off of my Banshee in the same woods with my 400EX but I had a hell of a lot of fun riding it. Had no problems with it at all as a trail ride. Other than the ride is a lot rougher and the steering seems to be a good bit stiffer feeling than the 400, it did really well as a trail ride. For what it is, I really can not complain about it. What I really like about it and my 400EX, they are both paid for machines. So as far as I am concerned, they both may be older and dated designs but the paid for factor makes them ride great. What are some good woods set up tips for a Banshee. Mine has Procircuit pipes, geared down already, stock suspension. 10" wheels on the rear with Pure Sport Bandits on the rear. (I assume this rim size and particular tire are contributing to the rougher ride.) Motor is stock. I am on a low budget right now so mods need to be cheap or free. :biggrin: Thanks for any tips.

This weekend will be the first time I will be riding my new/used Banshee. Just wondering if you guys could tell me what kind of a fuel range I can expect out of a Banshee with stock tank, normal mods, pipes and such. This is trail riding, no MX. I am not a hard rider but I will play with it. Also I was recomended to run Maxima Castor 927 oil. What ratios are you mixing Banshees at? I Mixed my first tank at 32:1. Should I keep it at that or can I drop it back to a 40 or even 50:1 ? Thanks

What is the boost bottle supose to do anyway? I see it connects the two side of the intakes, I guess to equalize the sides. The larger bottle is going to increase the volume in that one spot but what is the performance gain? Or what is it suppose to do?

I grew up with horses. Seen those plenty of times. Never thought about using something like that to cut a tire. May have to try it.