bansheejoel

first off, your shee looks badass. Now to the work. You will have to take the engine out. Take off cylinders, pistons, etc. Remove your flywheel, stator, clutch basket and all that shit in there. Then flip the engine over, loosten the bolts by the numbers stamped on the cases a little at a time...maybe a 1/8th of a turn. With the engine back upright get a rubber mallet and tap the two cases apart. Then pop out the crank and clean up everything. The trans gears are sealed so nothing will be in there. That would be a good time to put in some new crank seals as well. Then put everything back on, break her in and have a blast :thumbsup: I might be forgetting something, i havent done it since april so i might have forgot something small....someone will add in anything i forgot.

ok bud, i had the exact same thing with one of my sleds that im currently rebuilding. First off, i think that the coolant washing that piston was more than likely your problem. The coolant was prolly washing the oil away by the way the other side looks. Some people say that putting gas in and turning the crank then emptying out the gas works but if it were me i would split the cases and make sure for peace of mind. You do not want to do pistons, bore, etc and have some shit down there and mess up your top end right off the get go....do i think you would be fine rinsing with gas? yup, but i wouldnt risk it. You never know if anything got in your bearings or anything....good luck man. If you need any help with spliting the cases let us know, there is alot of smart guys here.

I used some pro-circuit suspension seal grease on my banshee crank seals and it seemed to work good. I lost the grease and only have a automotive grease for like bearings, linkages etc and was wondering if you have to have a certain grease....i sure dont want to toast the new seals on the sled. thanks

Dont really know what your talking about as my stock clutch ever did that, nor did a cheap tusk clutch. Depends what you want to spend, cant go wrong with a f.a.s.t. racing clutch

thanks for all the help guys

depends on how much you want to spend and what kind of riding you do...If i were you and wanted to just dune ride i would find a set of cpi's but those are hard to find cheap....any good pipe isnt cheap for that matter. A good decent priced pipe used is toomey t-5's, i would get those for dune riding and such. Or would get fmf's for trail riding/dune riding. Just depends what you want. I have fmf fattys and they are a good all around pipe.

thanks brandon

Im getting ready to seal up my cases on my sled and im not sure what to use to clean the sealing surface. I used rubbing alcohol on my banshee and it seemed to work ok but seemed to leave some residue. I was thinking brake cleaner since it evaporates very quickly, what do you guys use? thanks

put the engine into the atc frame.....

bad for you, engines are one of the things that actually hold their value. Expect to pay around $1300 for a good ported engine with slight mods

what?

good clutch basket, no grooves inner and outer clutch hubs, good shape tusk clutch, used for 1 hour anyone interested shoot me a pm with a offer or trade looking for some stock front shocks

Cant beat crankworks.....dr.Q's pipes are badass. I was looking to get a 1990 lt250r before i got my shee and DR.Q is the king of suzuki's for sure

damn man you are persistant lol

settle down the guy was trying to help you out! BTW you dont have to copy all the pictures, just adds to the post

couldnt agree with you more

yeah man get back to us....Yeah the drive isnt to bad, quess il just throw the frame in the girls car and cruise down there in a few weeks.....I will pm you before hand.....to anyone thinking about jd,s work. It is second to none, just like his personality :beer:

well the deal fell through.......anyone else have some shocks around west michigan?? I dont feel like dicking around with shipping parts ive never saw. Been screwed over to many times....

thats a great deal, wish i had the cash

Its not even that ktm's are expensive. Its that all the parts are expensive to buy..levers,clutch,rims...etc Ktms are nice b/c they have the hydo clutch. A 250f any brand since there all damn near the same thing will have plenty of power to do what you want. No need for a 450, not going to use 50% of the power 90% of the time anywase. For trails, i would buy a crf250x. Those things kick ass. Its also hard to beat a nice kdx200, those things are a badass trail bike to, and they rip pretty damn good.

my dad is a orginal owner of his rz350. It has toomey pipes, 2into1 k@n filter, reeds and different carbs and it tops out around 120-125mph. If you put a rz engine into your shee its not going to go anywhere near 120. Way to much drag.....4 tires vs. 2. Something that has fairings and is 20 inches wide vs. something that is 4ft wide. Something that rides on a total of 6 inches of tire, vs. something that is running 23 inches of tire contact. Think about it. Hell you could gear a bicycle to do 200mph. BUT its just not going to happen. There is only so fast you can go, anything faster your going to need massive hp to push it. What does a mild build stock gearing shee go around 65? No way your going to damn near double that. Its not like a rz came from the factory with alot more hp. The power valves just distributes the power better...more bottom end, etc

x2, need to get the gfs frame and a-arms done up pink.

I would run 19cc domes. Im at about 1000ft and am going to be running 20cc domes. You will be fine with 19's

dealership

so jd, this is a powdercoat job not just paint right? Damn when did you move to union, now thats alot farther away to bring my frame ::