docjcwatson

Sale pending on this. Sorry to you who missed out!

Haha. :biggrin:

Nope. Sorry man.

True that.

Wild West Welding drag chassis. +14 forward with a +14 swingarm. Couple imperfections on the chassis, like a dent in the bar stem clamp mount, and one of the front motor mounts is a little out of round. The chassis was set-up to use the front master cylinder as the rear brake. It's pretty trick not having a brake pedal on here. $4k -WWW +14 chassis -WWW +14 swingarm -72 ro 14 pdl stg extremes on 3 bolt 8x8 rims. Brand new. Not even mounted. -JJ&A front 3 bolt hub with rims and 19" light smooth buffs. Barely used. -3 Marvin shaw comps -Aluminum drag tank with a single pingle -Stock plastics and grill. -ASV levers. New. Just put them on. -ATC250 Polished radiator with custom mounts. If I do decide to part it out. These items have already been called for. Paddles and rims. Seat. If you see something that you want. Let me know and I will keep it in mind. I no longer own this motor, so, no. You can not have a part from it. :biggrin:

Haha. I don't know about 10% and all Pablo. How about next time the beer is on me?

Now we now who the quickest is on the HQ! Wait. Is that a good thing?

Sorry fellas. SOLD! Got a good motor he did. MmmHmmm.

Yup. First to try and get to go is the motor. If the motor and chassis sit here for about a month without moving. I will start to part individual pieces. $5k for the motor. -14mil Cheetah no PV -74.5mm bore -Billet basket -Straight Cuts -Override 1-5 N down with billet second -Cascade clutch disengagement adjuster -44mm Lectrons with power jets -CPI big bore big flange chrome pipes -PVL ignition -Cascade kicker and short shifter Motor was ported and put together by Lynn of LC Performance. It is a low compression motor at 156 each side. Most of these parts have maybe 10 hours on them.

Thanks Lee!!

Good point. I wasn't thinking about the dune port. PWK 33's would be a better choice. And cheaper!

Correct! Sounds to me, like you need more top end. A 34mm or 35mm carb of your choice would be a great upgrade to what sounds like a pretty nice motor already. Welcome to the HQ!! You have any pictures of this bad boy?

:banana: :banana: Happy birthday buddy!!

Good guy right here ladies and gentlemen. Frank is a top notch seller in my book!

If this is the bike that I am thinking of. THIS BIKE IS SICK! Best of everything! Spongebob chassis are also, very nice. Bump for you my friend! Sorry to see him get rid of a great bike.

Setting the timing on a YFZ450 is a pain in the ass. Period. Head over to http://www.yfztech.com They should be able to help you out.

I have a 14mil drag bike. Trade you for everything in your sig. Bahahaha.

Everything you need to know is right here. http://forums.atvdragracers.com/index.php?...&hl=wheelie While your there. Take a second to sign up and become a member.

Bahaha.

It has taken me over a year to get it where it is now. P.S. My bike doesn't roll right now. Bahaha.

$$$$$$$$$$

Happens to the best of us. When you switch to alcohol carbs. You will need to "clear" out the fuel system before you run it. When you pull up to pre-stage, drop it into neutral and give it 4-5 good revs. This is when you will see a lot of excess fuel coming out of the pipes. You'll be able to hear the difference in sound that the engine makes once the system is clear. This is of course assuming that it is a drag bike. When you purge, same thing will happen. Your purge gas should not hold enough octane to make the motor run. That is why most people have to keep revving on the throttle to keep the motor running while purging. A LOT of unburned purge gas will come out of the pipes. Note; Do not purge near anything of value. Hahaha.

Oh hell no! Dave I can't believe you posted that for all to see! Loco, we need to delete that post! Now that's funny. :biggrin:

Building a bigger motor is easier. Just not cheaper. Hahaha.

First of all. Congrats on getting your bike back! Now, to the nitty gritty. Your arms are bent. You can see in the pictures that both wheels have the same toe and camber and also the same pitch. So, this leads me to believe that you bent one side forward, but most likely bent one side backwards. By "side", i mean everything on that one side. Upper and lower arms, with tie rods included. If they all bent the same amount at the same time, you wouldn't notice it unless you measured like you did. Does this make sense?