dragbanshee

Last non oring chain I had never stopped stretching I bought right before a trip to West Virginia and the whole time I was there I was adjusting and worring about throwing my chain and breaking my case. I even had to cut a link out of it there, never go non oring again.

Just curious are you getting any oil spitting out the silencers, and what do the plugs look like are they wet?

Did you find out your ele.? like slo said go with 300 mains to start and clip on needle in middle groove.I would think you could go with stock pilots 25s or 27s and 1 1/2 out airscrews. this will be close enough to get you going so you can jet it safely without siezing it again.

Got pictures of the tank? And are the threads where plastics bolt to ok? thanks

That is great to hear man, I figured you would have a change in mindset after a goodnights rest and some patience today.Thats pretty cool 4th gear and 7 bike lengths YEA!

I also have a billet cover behind mine, no leaks!

Yep much better design I dont like how the 3 little screws are going to take a hit. I really think its an accident waiting to happen with the design I have. Cases may have better chance without it.

Thats what Im trying to do the head is about the only bling I have on it.

Not much tollerence is there? I wasn't sure.

I have a billet modquad with a13 tooth and its pretty darn close. Iknow I can go with 14 but not sure of anything bigger.

Just installed mine, looks good and feel the difference.

Hope this helps some people out with the jetting and needles. http://www.duncanracing.com/techfaq/Tech_k...n-jetting.phtml

The only performance you'll get out of a bottle is taking it off & tossing it.

Thats what I want righr there. Ill check out the site.

Dont know of any but sure would like to find some close, im in to flat trackin!

You still got the +2 swinger on your bike? It looks more like a 4-6 on there, Iv got a +4 Im getting ready to put on. Can't make up my mind if I want to flat track it or set it up for drags, love em both.

I want it really bad but Im out of work right now and gotta watch the $. Iv been lookin for a good set of juggs cheap so I can have them done and still be able to ride. I got my noss head on no leaks and 150 both cylinders from 125 with 21cc domes 800 asl.

Hey as long as its a banshee going up, or down the hill who cares.

Looking forward to some more vids, the more the better!

Yea that helps I wasnt sure what caused that to the head, didn't seem to hurt performance any. Thanks slobanshee!

Somethings not right I think you may need to pull your clutch apart again and double check it. Did you take out the push rod and bearing? That arm with arrow that lines up with other arrow, repeat steps done before and hold that lever towards front of motor and adjust the screw that will line up the arrows then tighten nut . Sorry, not real good at explaining somethings.

Well I finally decided to install my noss head after having it for a month, anyways I pulled the stocker off and found a lot of pitting on the right side. The left side didn't look to bad, I think this may of happened on the last rebuild cause the pistons look excellent I think. What would cause this to happen? It always ran fairly cool, never overheated with me and was rich if anything, thats why I think it happened to the previous owner over a year ago. I have pics below if you could take a look and tell me what causes this. One other thing I wrote some #s down and got shots of them to see if someone could tell me the size maybe....#s on piston H64I8 / 100mm /513p4 /cd this exactly how they are on piston. Thanks!

Do you have the stock or aftermarket carrier/ bearing carrier?

I would think if it was ok with your other pipes it should be real close with t5s. Where abouts are you in IN im in Avon 20 miles west of Indy.