sleeper06

Directly behind idler gear,which is 1st wheel gear.Plus the gear is not inguaged fully due to the spring fighting it.The old way with the spring on the forks had no restriction of gear inguagement at all and no binding.What sucks is they put the word out they were bullet proof.I bought them off a builder and now what,im hoping to take the springs off the shaft and put them back on the forks to correct the problem.I just think its bullshit to have to redesign someone elses shit that wasnt cheep.On a good note I now have a good Idea on cutting my own tranny design.Im going to cut it on my bridgeport today and

Need to call vitos

Not only is Jeff the man with alky set ups but he allready had those cylinders set-up on 39mm pwks with very impressive times in tune,He allready knows what size everything needs to be.Its been my experiance (dont beleive the hipe)go with what works and pwks work

I have also had a flywheel do this but unlikely start with the basics

It makes a diffrence who cuts them because shits been blowing up left and right

My issues are not with the old peices I have three dunables with springs on the forks for about two years with no problem whatsoever,Its the new extremes that I have the issue with.Last night I got crazy and laid out a new overide a stocker and an old one all in cases mocked up with drums.Im interested in seeing where they went wrong.So I got it all figured out last night.The spring that hold 1st and 4th gear slider on the tranny shaft is causing binding on the case and also causing the gear to sit in limbo more so than usual and tag other gears .This was all spinning at loww RPM on a variak set-up.You should see how bad the cases are marked up and I can only imagine what it would sopund like at idle let alone screaming.Well now I have $900 worth of trannies for paper weights at the shop LOL

im hoping to get some more information about over ride transmissions. what is goin on at WCR? i'm hearing about tranny's blowing left and right. I have 2 over rides waiting to go into customer's bikes' but i'm weery about putting em in due to all the horror stories i've been hearing lately. if anyone has any imput please chime in. people want their bikes back n i need em outta here.

I have a Fast stock cylinder bike and it beats my cleaned up cub,4mm crank ,39mm carbs,I had inframes on it for a while and rode it all over.You will not regret it,ct racing does quality work but jeffs cylinders haul ass

Its not all about static compression,comp ratio has a big influence on gas needs.Depending on the porting 19cc domes should be in race gas territory.Might be time for a rebuild with those numbers on 19s so make sure your guage is good

I made the same one just aluminum

Is it a new crank or does it need to be trued also,dont let anyone weld on it till its checked for true bearing runout,it might be out of spec before you start.Its the heart of the motor.I live in long island and send my shit to FAST racing.His number is 1-785-364-5325.It usually costs me $15 in shipping

Get a filter and loose the lid then that main jet is dead on in the winter,staying the way you are im thinking 240,250 range

To anyone thinking of building there own chassis,Stellar has put together some of the most quality parts I have seen yet.I have seen many drag frames built using jr dragster parts and mismatched shit none of them impressed me at all.I just recieved all my steering components,spindle,etc to finish two builds I have going rite now and im impressed with the quality of the pruduct.THANKS Tim great job and it got here quick

What kind of guage are you using ? Did you check piston/cylinder clearance and ring gap before you assembled everything ?

You need to shed some light on the subject,thats horrible lighting

Dont be so sure it will shift,depends on porting,HP

Timing most certanly afeects it

I could never find replacements around by me but I used a forein car stud and tacked it in.Try going to bike bandit and looking at a picture of it to see if you can order it ,or the hubs are a dime a dozen im sure someone has one laying around for cheap

I have had a bad flywheel on a customers bike do what your describing.I would do the protocall first Compression,pressure test with intake assembly,do a one time on the wiring harness to check for frayed shit.all the basics will make you chase your tail if its not a sound piece to begin with

Im going to put one in the rigid im building ,the only ones i have seen are weld in units that are custom to each chassis,im using a harley seat my buddy has kicking around 5/8 tublingas a frame and real low pro just for my tail bone.I have a bionic right shoulder that goes numb an pinches nerves when I launch on asphault so this year its a must to stay consistant and comfortable.I can show you in about 2-3 weeks,project is on hold rite now just got a lathe and am hooking it up and getting her up and running

Round or square style

Did the pipes sell also the cdi has the shift kill option on it rite,if it didnt sell let me know

They all do that I know exactly what you mean,pressure test it to be sure.Your talking about turnning the crank like a knob back and forth and it clunking so to say

whats left

A lil on the fat side,the ring is dark.Sorry so late bad night.I would go a step leaner and compare ,it should lighten up .Ill PM you tommorow when im not so dead