SkunkWerX

That answers it, AC system all the way. The HIDs need dcv. end of story. Thanks guys, probably saved me some $$$ :thumbsup:

That's what I was getting at, I knew it was AC out of the stator, but didn't know what was going to the headlights. Sounds like the lamps are taking AC??? I was going to put a volt meter on the lamp plug this weekend to check the output at idel and revving. I figured if these types of HIDs would work that you guys would be all over them. The 5K and 6K bulbs give off about 2x to 3x the useable light of the halogens on the Raptor. That's a HUGE gain for less than $100, and no upgrade to the stock system needed. This is what i figured the answer to be, it's almost too good to be true if they worked.

I tried a earch but the search engine kept bouncing me when "hid" was in the search bar, weird. Over at the Raptor forum they are having good luck with the new lower priced HID light set-ups. They are on, where else, Flea-bay. They draw 35w a piece, and specs say they operate from 9v to 16v source. My question is has anyone tried these, or have any thoughts about why they would work, or not work on a stock Banshee elec. system?? Here is a link, i don't know this seller, never used this seller, not trying to give him business, or anything like that, just an example of the ones the Raptor guys are using. (They have used this seller with supposedly good luck). http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...627517&rd=1 A couple of riders have been running these for 6 months without trouble. Any thoughts on compatibility with Banshee system?

My son and I ride trails a lot. The gearing sounds good. The Pure Sport tires are harder rubber, they wear like steel, but, you are correct in thinking they might not be as good for hard trails. We run Maxxis Razrs on our Banshee and Raptor and love them. You have to watch going to really tall rear tires. We run the 22" Maxxis on the back, but, that changes your gear ratio at the ground. It's nice to get the extra clearance for trails, that's why we did it, but you go from 20" to 22" it's almost like going back from the 13 tooth front sprocket to the 14 toother. An after market swingarm guard is a MUST. I can show you old swingarm guards that we used in the past that have gashes and dents, surely enough to destroy a rotor or sprocket. Thicker is better in my book, but most of the name brands are decent. DG, AC, and the like. Shocks, what can I say? They are expensive, but they make a big difference on the trails. Big rocks and tree roots can jerk the bars out of your hands if you hit them right. We run triple rate springs with resrviors, they soak up so much shock you can ride a lot longer, and be less sore after a day riding through the mountains. if you can afford them, they are nice. If not right now, at least put a set of aftermarket front shocks on your wish list. Until then, Read the manual and adjust the spring tension on your stock shocks to get what can out of them. Good luck, sounds like you are already set-up for a good trail run, then, just dial in the features that you notice after a few rides. For now, run the Pure Sports at a little lower pressure to give them some squish.

Either way, Left and/or right, check for a pesky leak. These are the types of troubles that we end up learning from. Keep us posted.

Don't overlook an Intake Air Leak on the Right Side. With excess air getting in, you could get those symptoms. Once you are pouring the extra fuel to it 1/4 and up, it runs (albeit probably lean). But, you would have too much air to run at idle? possibly. I'd check for Air Leaks on right Side, it can't hurt, include the head gasket on that side too. I swore that I didn't have an Air Leak, and the leakdown test proved me wrong.

i wouldn't buy and/or install a new pilot until I had verified the problem. What altitude do you live, and what Altitude where you had the problem? (ie, do live near sea level and have the problem up in the mountains?) -Check for air leaks first -Try choke trick Then determine if you are dealing with a rick or lean issue. ONLY after all that should you start buying/replacing parts. Sometimes you cna get lucky, other times only make it worse, or mask the real problem. Take the time to figure it out, or at least geta decent idea of what is causing it. good luck. Pilot jets run about $6 apiece at Jets r Us. Mains run about $2.99 , don't quote me, but Pilots cost more for some reason.

First, make sure you don't have any intake leaks between the Carbs and intake. When you go for throttle it'll start sucking air from a leak, making it go lean, and bog. if no obvious leaks, You can then try the choke trick, to prove whether you need a larger pilot. Throw it to half-choke (after warming it up) , and see if the Bog gets worse or better from 0 to 1/4 throttle. If the bog gets better, or goes away, then you have proven that "richening" it is the key, and that calls for a larger pilot. I too think you can go up on your Mains. It screams at top, but, you could be screaming lean. 300 is a good place to go to for your set-up. it's Ok to go to higher numbers, [Rich] then work down. But, fix that low end bog first. If you upsize your pilot, you will be richening throughout your overall throttle range. Then you may find 280s or 290's OK, especially since colder weather is coming to Ohio. Good Luck. 1. Make sure you don't have any intake leaks, 2. then try the choke trick. (You don't need to run more than a couple minutes choked, it's not necessary only to prove the Bog is better or worse).

We'll do the idle test , sort out the Low end/Pilot. Then we'll move to the Main jet. Better to start on the rich end and work down. The AirScrews at 2.5 turns Out already says something. Good feeling to sort it out is RIGHT! Now I can devote some time (and money) to my virtually stock 660RaptorLE. Looking at the Yoshimura exhaust, K&N, intake and jetting.

First: THANKS TO EVERYONE. Second: It's done!! Put back together, and this thing SCREAMS now. I don't mean like "whoo hooo fun time" , I mean, like, "Death grip, neck snapping, Rocket ship to Jupiter!!" Good advice from Banshee HQ, I am a sworn believer in the Leak Down Test Fixed the Big leak, but found some minor ones too, took care of them, as well. Dajo, you da man. Product review: Permatex Stripped Thread Repair #81668 This stuff works. They don't advise for critical apps, like brakes, steering or internal motor. I would say the more threads you have left, the better it will work. Mine were still there, just wouldn't allow full tightening. Within 1 hour it was done, that includes full strength curing. Got it from Ace Hardware, but try anywhere that sells Permatex products. Before: 25 pilots, 250 mains and throw in an Air Leak or two. Right now we're running 32.5 pilots, 300 Mains. Pulled a plug, took a peak (no chop yet) and we are in the Ballpark. It likes the Airscrew 2.5 turns out. Not surprising with that 32.5 "piece of pipe" for a Pilot jet. Got the jets from Jet's R Us, they shipped very quick, and no problems. Thanks to all!! Good to go! :beer:

I think I am going to try to the permatex thread repair compound, first. And yes, I view it as a temporary fix. It will give me time to locate proper helicoils and/or TimeSerts. My research last night shows some promise for the permatex product, worth a try. Timeserts: http://www.threadkits.com/timeserts/timeserts.html I am eager to see if this is the only leak, it's certainly the largest, but, when you fix the large one, smaller ones can show. I'll give a review of the permatex product. I use loctite thread compounds on pressure fittings, up to 4500psi, but those are good solid threads, even the Red loctite won't act as a fastening surface. The permatex product adds "amterial" to the threads, which, in this case, is what is needed. - - - - - - Also, for plugging and sealing to perform the leak down test, I found some easily obtainable stuff. Ace Hardware had 1 1/4" plugs, in the plumbing department. They are designed to fit into an 1 1/4" pvc Fitting, which, has an ID of 1.5" , same as Banshee exhaust spigot ID. This is the kind that has a wingnut you turn to expand the rubber. Make sure you clean the carbon and soot out of the ID first for a good seal. OR, the OD of the exhaust spigot is 1 3/4" , so, a 1 3/4" diameter black rubber test cap, with hose clamp would work. For the intake boot, a 3/4" PVC end cap and the stock clamp is all that is needed. The exhaust, by far, is the most difficult to plug.

Anyone have any luck with permatex thread repair "Forma-thread"? http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.j...295869&cid= Also my mechanic buddy just told me about Timeserts, but, for a single repair they are pricey. And not readily available everywhere.

FOUND IT!!! found it -found it -found it!! Partially stripped M6 intake bolt. The kind of stripping that feels like it's tightening, but, doesn't quite tighten down all the way. This makes sense. Why you ask? because Hercules, aka: KingKong, aka: The incredible Hulk aka: Previous Owner tightened the livvin piss out of everything he touched!! I have drilled and easy outted two other bolts so far, one on the Toomey clamps. he also had float bowl leaks, and isntead of fixing the float valve, he kept tightening the bottom bleed screw so much I can't loosen them. OK, so, enough about people who shouldn't be allowed to over tighten bolts...... They are M6 threads, I measured depth, and had some more depth left in the hole, so I hoofed it up to Ace Hardware, they have a decent amount of metrics. Picked up another M6, longer, hoping it would grab some good thread down in the bottom, but, no luck. I can almost torque the leak out, but not quite. I tried loosening all and tightening that one first, but, just not quite enough "meat" left on it. So here is the question? Looks like 1/4-28 is next size up. I have taps. -Do I go ahead and tap it for 1/4-28? -Or, has anyone had any luck with compounds and retapping for same size? (JB Weld?) -Or, Helicoil type of repair ....to maintain same size?? Send Cards, Letters, even Flowers?? [sigh] I think this is the problem, definitely bleeds more than 1psi per minute.

An "interesting" dialogue, to say the least. I needed that laugh.

Thanks, I looked over all surfaces, intake, reeds, spacers, and boots. I'd give them all an overall 98% for clean & smooth. Not even a scratch. I've seen far, far worse still hold a good seal. More to report later tonite once I do: "Leak Test II" , "Return of the Bubble Monster". (yes, this problem is starting to affect my sanity). :shoothead:

The TORS unit is so smart it detected the new jets, and shut him down! I'll bet TORS has made the Yamaha ATV shop mechanics a lot of $$$$ since it's inception. Glad he found it fairly easily, score one for the home team!

Oh yes, I know the intak gaskets and joints are usually the culprits, but, since I have so much time invested, I wanted to go 1 section at a time. Now, I can bolt up the intake tract , plug it, (minus carbs, of course) , pressurize, and soap test it. It will be a breeze compared to the prepping for the full blown leak down test. The boots are newish , and appear to be proprietary design to the Rad valves. That doesn't mean they can't have a leaky joint, just commenting on the parts I'm dealing with. What are your thoughts on silicon sealers as gasket/joint seals? I ask this in advance. Suppose someone finds a leak, has a godo clean gasket and just can't get a good seal? Use a gasket sealing compound? What kind?

TEST IS IN!! 6 psi for 6 mins!! passed!! It was a booger getting the exhaust ports sealed up, they kept giving me small pinhole leaks, but I finally got them sealed and was able to test. After 12 mins it was at about 5 3/4 psi. Used a good 15 psi gauge, I have tons of gauges, so that wasn't a problem. tapped it several times to make sure it wasn't sticking. For anyone wanting to do this, if you can get a hold of a needle valve, it makes pressurizing slowly, very ,very easy. I dialed my main regulator down to about 15 psi, then metered the air into system with the needle valve. nice. Man, I am glad that is over. OK, that was the motor with Exhaust and intake blocked off. Used flat heavy gauge sheet metal and gaskets to make blocking plates for the intake. Tomorrow will re-install reeds, spacers, gaskets and boots, and re-test, now knowing the motor is tight. wow, sigh of relief time. No, make that Miller time!! (actually I prefer IPAs) Hitting the shower, skipped dinner, grab a quick bite, and plan tomorrow's attack after work. Thanks Dajo, for all the moral support and ideas. I can grab any photos of the pressure set-up if anyone is interested. I'll be tearing the pressure system down tommorrow night after testing the intake parts. later

The plugs are tapered. I think the exhaust hole is around 1 3/4 or so...but not 100% sure. Maybe a member that has an engine sitting on the bench can confirm.... yeah, I found them, got a pack of 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" (32mm and 38mm) They did have 1 3/4" but I didn't grab them, They looked pretty big, can always make a run this eve and do an exchange if I need them. I'll take good measurements and post them, along with the HomeDepot parts number, so others may benefit.

Dajo, thanks man!! nope, case and head looks stock & untampered, doesn't look like anything is shaved, or that the head has been touched. Bolts don't have any sign of a wrench or socket being on them, looked for that, in case it had previously blown a head gasket or had someone monkeying inside. The rubber furniture thingies sound like they will work great! i was thinking more of those rubber expandable plumbing plugs, but I've seen them 4" and 3", but not smaller versions. Like a dummy (I'm getting good at it) I didn't measure the exhaust spigot's diameter. I found on www, that the Exh. port on a blaster is 35mm diameter, which is roughly 1.5" I might make a swag and hope the Banshee is somewhere in that same neighborhood? (Same carb input=same exh ouput?) yeah, sounds like a good theory, but we shall see if it's just a convenient coincidence...or not. I can always buy a couple of sizes and return them, or swing by the house at lunch and try to get a good measurement. I do wood work and metal work, so i was thinking of making "squish" plates, so I can stuff it in, then tighten a bolt and wingnut to make the rubber expand inside the inner diameter. This is really keeping me off the streets and out of trouble.

The float bowls are on the correct sides. The small hole in the left bowl is what allows additional fuel to be communicated to the right side in choked condition, I do believe. The slides are in the correct carbs. The cut-out (angled bottom) goes to the rear, facing the airbox. The first time I took everything apart I labelled the bowls with an engraver. The silver Caps also have an "L" and "R" on them, makes it so much easier when re-installing everything, and I did verify Left vs. Right like 3 times, at least. When I work at my bench, I keep things Left/Right separated. And check additionally when reassembling just to make sure. But, thanks for the advice, you never know when a little thing will trip you up. - - - - Right now I'm looking for some rubber to block off the exhaust ports. Intake is blocked. getting ready for the Leak Down test. I gotta find some thick pieces of rubber today. They make rubber expansion plugs for plumbing pipe, I can probably shave them down to size? Straight-up Kick, Compression test, showed an average of 118psi on Right and 120psi on Left. Kicked 3 sets of 3, recorded, and averaged. all the samples were within 3 psi of each other, and both sides are within 2psi (less than variance 2%). On the surface it looks like it should run. I'm guessing it's probably 60% used up, in terms of these pressures, but probably still has some serviceable life left in it. After "kicking it up" , I let it sit for a few minutes, with no bleed down, so, doesn't that mean the piston has no holes , and rings are OK? I've heard 100psi is the defacto "Rebuild" red line , right?? At or below 100psi your rings are shot? right? Last thing, like dummies, we didn't hold the throttle open while kicking, oh well, live and learn. So these readings are probably conservative, which is fine. In search of rubber.

Oh cool, thanks, piece of cake, I have a Low-p regulator and a small needle valve, I use for air brushing, that will get it down in very, very low psi range. Good deal, can do basic compression and leak down tonite, then i should know exactly where I stand . (up to my @$$ in alligators, most likley). again, thanks for all the help. I have the compression tester in hand, i can use those fittings for the leak down test. Piece of cake.

I can get enough "plumbing" parts to build a leak down tester, between my air compressor fitting and scuba gear, I'll be able to put something together. Leakdown is when you set the cylinder at TDC and shoot a given pressure to it, and meaure leakage rate, right? Gonna start from scratch, and do a "simple" compression check first. I know electrical and electronics well, I can also do all the ohm tests on the electrical system, takes time, but otherwise it's free. Won't start swapping elec. parts until something leads me in that direction. Thanks for the info. I will advise with more info. as it happens. Thanks.

Thanks ToomeyBanshee, I have K&N filter and the filter adapter plate. My most restriction on the Filter side is the outerwears attached to the PowerLid. When you give it throttle you can see the outwears getting sucked down to the lid. I pressure tested the boost bottle, no pin holes. I don't have the stock cross-over, or yes, I would have swapped it out just for S&Gs. The carb boots are newish, they come with the Boyesen Rad valve, they look fine. My shop has a sink , so, I washed them with mild soap, warm water, toothbrush. Did same for boots between filter and carbs. Carbs have bee totally dismantled and cleaned twice if not 3 times. All needles, jets, removed, compressed air run thru, then carb cleaner. All orifices are open, carb cleaner passes thru air, pilot and Main jets. Air screws are new. Float valves are new. On saturday I removed float bowl gaskets, used dial caliper to set the float height, it was close, but, at this point I'm checking and making sure everything is perfectly adjusted. Replaced the choke tube ebtween the two carbs, it fits tight, no leaks. 99.9% positive I have no leaks, now that I took it all apart, inspected and re-assembled properly. Hush Kit doesn't rob power, per Toomey, but, yes, I did try with and without, no change. -Tried it with and without spacers, ran OK before and spacers were in place, but, took them out for a test, no change in symptoms. When it runs, no matter what Pilot 25 thru 32.5 , it always runs best with air screw closed down to 1/4 turn out. So that makes it sound like a leak, but, I've ruled out leaks. Still need to do the Compression Test, first, if that shows up good, then I'm going over all wiring and electrical. It acts like a TORS related problem, but TORS is removed. Even starting to wonder if the CDI (ignition module) has a hicuup? IF i had a spare that would be a quick check, but, $150 to do a "what if" swap is a bit hefty. Compression check before gonig any farther. I'd suspect compression a little more, if it weren't so easy to start. Low compression usually shows as hard to start, and low end power loss. I have "easy to start" , bogs zero to 1/4 throttle. From 1/4 to full it pulls as strong, even stronger than ever before with the 300 mains. At this point, I'm thinking a lot, and listening to everyone, thanks for the ideas.

250 is bump-up from stock. Stock you won't find any bigger than 220. 250 mains with stock air box set-up and new pipes sounds right for your elevation.