RILS

I put a 16 on the front today so now im at 16/41 and draged on dirt againest my buddies yz125 this afternoon and smoked the hell outa him start to finish the longer the race the more i pulled.I also have a set of 34pjs on the way and a 4mil crank but this thing hauls now the 16tooth really helped I still had no problem launching in 2nd on dirt I think I could pull a 17fine but the track that i normally race at is very short and I need to get up to speed pretty quick so im going to try the 16 there this weekend and go from there,but after i put that 4mill in Ill proably be regearing and reclutching.Ohyea my exhaust is at 196 sorry about the missinformation.

I bought a set for 34pjs yesterday with outerwears from magic racing for around 80 dollars.Cascade has them also for 82 dollars i believe and if you get the part# you can order them at advanced auto atleast the store wher i live.But you if need the outerwears anyway you might as well buy the kit.

Thanks for the advice.Im going to get this 4mill running strong and the clutch will be next.And then I will be getting to the suspention.My oldlady wont let me spent to much at once.I think I am going to talk to Cam about doing this spare set of stk cylinders.How are his prices we really didnt get into that.

No you really should be getting higher compression with those domes if they are trully 17cc.The smaller the dome the more compression you get,The more you have the stronger the bootem end power will get with a sacrifice on top.I dont like to run over 185psi.You may want to compare the little thing on your gauge that screws into the head to a spark plug to make sure the threaded part is about the same leanth if the one on the gauge is shorter or longer you will not get accuret readings.

Glad we could help.That atvconnection aint noyin but a bunch of kid talking about how there raptor will out run a banshee yada yada yada.No offense intended i see u have a raptor some of them run pretty good for a 4poke.

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I assume your running a cool head do you know they are 17cc or is this just what you were told?That seems really low compression for 17s especily with a stroker but they could be custom domes that were cut to spec and they may have just started with a 17cc.The spacer plate will be between your cases and cylinder and will look like a extra thick metal gasket,you should be able to see it.You can pull the head off and look at the domes the cc will be marked on the edge of the dome,and you could check for the extra stroke by bringing the piston to the top of the cylinder.If it doesent come above the top just a little bit 2mm is mot very much then i would take the cylinders off and look for a spacer.

You can have a 4mill without the spacer.Your domes would have to be cut for the extra stroke.If you dont have a spacer and you take the head off then your pistons will rise 2mm above the top of the cylinder deck.If you have a spacer it will be under your cylinders and will raise them 2mm which would bring them back up and you could run stk head or domes.Most builders have the domes cut and dont use a spacer plate,but there are some tthat use the spacer for some aplications. Im not sure how trinity sets them up.

Thanks for the advice odaen.I talked to cameron today and he told me to get some cut domes and just use my cylinders like they are he said they shoud run fine.He also said that my exhaust is at 196 and that if i raised it by two more mm it will be to high and the transfers have been raised and this will raise them more.He said that lowering the transfer floors would help a little but that it should run really well like it is.How much diffreance would lowering them make?Anyway thanks for the advice he was a real nice guy that seemed to know his shit.How well does his porting run I might get him to set me up a set of cylinders in the future.Im thinking about going to the cub but I just love that steath look.I want a set of stk 4mill cylinders that will run like a cub do yall know anybody that can do this without chargeing the price of the cub?

If your not running a spacer plate then yes it should.

Well I think if its a 4mill and you have cut domes and not the spacer plate,you can take the head off and th piston should come a little above the deck "2mm". Stroking can play a # on compression and domes I just spoke to david noss about this today.Im building a 4mill stroker and I dont want to raise my compression any higher than it is its 183psi with my stk stroke now with 18cc domes.He says it with proably go up with the stroker and i want to be around 175psi he recommended 20cc cut domes im at 900ft.Your porting can effect your compression also.Is the motor fresh?Did you get trinity to build it for you or did you assemble it?There are a lot of things that can play in compression especilly when you are dealing with a stroker and costom domes.

Sounds pretty low with 17s unless your pretty high in elevation.

Do they work pretty good? And does anybody have one they will sell for a 4mill?Oh yea ive been reading a lot of threads on this.I already have a good port job and if I use the spacer plate will it still be good?Or will it fuck my port timing up.What made me decide to do this is i got to thinking about my non welded crank and all the mods ive been doing and the 183psi, so I went ahead and sprung for a 4mill trued and welded with tz bearings, but i got the standered rods because my pistons are not a week old and wanted to still beable to use them.I have anthother set of stk unported jugs that i could set up for this but I want to get a cub later and would like to use the ones i allready have.

What do you mean its going to the intake?Thats where its supposed to go.

Thanks I appricate the help.

Thats what im saying ive been searching and its like some people with basicly the same mods will be running somthing toatly differnt I mean I know elevation and temp plays a big part but good god i see people running 175mains150mains145mains with all differnt kinds of needles and pilots they vary as much as the mains I mean im not new to jetting but there seems to be no pattern with these pjs.

Ive got a set of 34pjs on the way and could use some help getting them jetted.I know there are already some threads here on this subject but I have read them and still could use yalls help.Im running trinity pipes dune/drag port "exhaust 28mm from top" transfers opened up but i dont remember all the other measurments.No airbox.900 ft elevation at 80-95degrees.Im running the stockers now with 340mains and could proably go to a 360 without any trouble ,but its real hot out and they are pretty close 27.5pilot 4th clip.The guy that had the cylinders before me was running pjs with 145main 42pilot and cel needles with cpi pipes and about the same elevation as me,but from what ive read here this seems on the lean side.So my question is should i use this as a starting point or is there somthing yall can tell from my stk setup that could help.Im just tring to be ready to jet these things without buying every jet avliable.So any info would be appreciated.Thanks

Ive heard a lot of people running pcs that are real happy with them.The gnarlys will defintly come on earlier and fall of earlier and this might be what your looking for on a tight mx track but you might do better with what you have in normal conditions but its really all up to you,but ive heard that pcs are a real good all around pipe.I considered mx with my banshee but havent tried it yet kinda just fell in the drag stuff but i have mxed with 2wheelers all my life and on any 2stroke you should not be in the lowend that much if your ridding fast.Are you running a coolhead of any type ifso ive found that bumping the compression will help the lowend alot.Im not tring to talk you out of the lowend pipes its just hard for me to imagine a banshee with a weak topend.

Proably too high with those tall tires. With 22s and the mods you have listed 13 or 14 in the front will imo be more suited.

Ive seen them go real cheap on ebay and keep a check onthe classifieds here and planet sand,But ive heard alot of peple say that the fmf gnarlys work better with porting.

Cpis are fast and quieter than the toomeys atleast the. onses ive heard.I like my trinitys they are stainless and about the same price as the otheres if you shop around for them I got mine at motoxoutlet .com for 569 shipped i think,but they are all strong pipes some prefer one over the other but its really a matter of opinion and how the rest of the bike is setup that that makes one shine over the other.As far as sound the toomeys are loud and sound good and the trinitys and cpis are quieter and sound good and are pretty close to the same in deciables.

Make sure your carbs are calibrated"opening and closing at the same time"Play with the screws and make sure yiu have the little hose a there that connects the two carbs.Ive heard of some people filing the idle screw end a little to get it to seat better.As for your jetting you should be somewhere between a 280 and a 320 main with the airbox still on and a 27.5 pilot withstk needles on the forth clip and I like 2 turns out on the airscrew but you can play with this and find what works best for you.I would proably start with a 300 main and go from there I normally tell people to start rich and work there way down which you can too its safer but I ride at about the same elevation as you and would almost bet a 300 or 310 would have you real close if not spot on.

Depends on how your luck runs.

I agree with this as far as carbs go, but I also agree with the others saying get the other stuff first.I would go in this order pipes,porting and then carbs depending on the port you get if you still want to ride the trails and have good lowend you might stay with your 2into 1 setup and go with a 35mm or a 38mm and this will help your lowend and be cheaper.Another thing that will really give your lowend a kick in the ass regaurdless of what carbs and pipes your running is to get some small domes in that coolhead to get that compression up but this maight be at the cost of race fuel depending on how big you want the kick to be.

That compression is really low.I would defenitly try another tester but if it is still low im with bigred on this one i would take it back to whoever bored them assuming that they did bore them and have a long talk with them.Another way to check if you dont have anyway to measure them is to pull the cylinders off,take one of the rings and put it in the bore without the piston there should be a litte clearance on the ends but it should be very little on a fresh bore.I always make sure they bore each cylinder to match each piston and amrk them because they differ in size from piston to piston even in matched sets.But I would think that they could guess at it and not even bore them to one piston and get you higher than 75psi.Sounds like to me that if somebody else did it they didnt even bore it and just slaped a set of pistons and rings in there and sent you on your way.