addicted

grooves go up.

It is normal to have to spin the shaft to get the gears to engage. I had the same thing happen when I put mine together. I freaked out and took it to the shop To have them do a shifting check before I put the cases together. They said it was normal, especially if the gears are new. I put it together and it shifts fine.

The nice thing about the cheetah is you con get powervalves and make some good bottom end for the trails. The bad thing is Trinity does the machining. With the cub you can use stock intake. The cheetah uses 250r design.The exhaust is the same.

I don't want to bash them too hard on an open forum, but I have had lots of trouble with Trinity lately.

It looks to me that you have the clutch cable circled also. But if your refering to the electrical plug at the perch, it needs to be removed and the two wires connected to complete the circuit. Otherwise the bike won't rev above idle.

Get a pickle fork from your loal parts house and it will come right off.

When I did my cheetah they told me I had to port the cases if the cylinders are tunnel ported.

I have an adjustible plate also, but that just tells you how much additional timing your using. Your cdi is preset with more. A banshee can run a total of 30 degrees, then meltdown. I am just wodering how to tell exavtly how much it currently is running.

How can you tell exactly how much timing you are throwing at it? Is it as easy as just hooking up a standard light. Where are the timing marks. I do have a Dyna, so if I get the software will that actualy show me the full curve?

Changing the oil will not get the water out of the crankcase.

Good info fellas. I appreciate your time.

Anyone have the time to explain to me how an overide tans. works. Is it worth the money?

When you say you dumpped gas down the cylinder I assume you mean threw the spark plug hole. I have had better luck spraying gas in threw the back of the carb with an old 409 bottle or something simmilar. Did you look in your pilot jet to make sure there isn't a piece of gunk clogging it? If you rule out fuel delivery and the commpresion is good you may want to consider a leak down test. Sometimes the spark will favor one side but if you have switched the plug wires with no difference then it seams to rule that out. Good luck "dam banshees"

I woder if it good to start a 2 stroke with either? No lubrication on start up. I don't kmow, maybe something to think about.

Has anyone had the opportunity to compare the difference between the 35pwk and the A/S? Horspwoer, throtle response, ease of tuning

Maybe ckeck your plug caps. I've had them do wiered things. There cheep. I replace mine every year and I coat the inside of the boot with dialectic grease.

If you follow the wres down a little ways, (maybe 10 inches) there should be a conector. You may want to sissconnect it and cut and splice the wires before the plug to eliminate the posability of a bad conection there. What you are describing sure sounds like the parking brake circuit is not closed. Also is not that unusual for the bike to not want to roll with it in gear and the clutch pulled. sometimes the plates don't want to seperate right away. Especialy if you haven't ridden it that day. Allthough it could also be a sign of a worn clutch basket, but usualy if thats the case the bike will lurch when you put it into gear while running.

If you have removed the parking brake since it was running right, then there is your problem. The plug that you removed from the perch contains two wires. You need to connect those two wires and it will run like a champ. Be sure to make a good conection, not just ellectrical tape.

What was it?

Sounds electrical to me. Test your stator etc.

The ccoil, pickup coil, and stator can easily be tested. Your Clymers will tell you what the resistance should be on wich wire. you just hook up your volt/ohm meter to each. I don't believe the cdi can be tested. But if you buy the other one and its not the problem then you will always have an extra one for back up or troubleshooting.

How you you rule out an o-ring? I have had a problem with mine leaking coolant also, but when I take it apart the o-ring looks fine. Is there some other signs to look for?

Does FAST Racing have a website?

My cheetah is leaking comppresion into the cooling system. Inner o-ring right side. Maybe both.

So the cub and the cheetahs are the same cylinder? just different what...? porting, port timing?