fox_forma

I figured I will prob be around the 60-65mph mark most of the way due to saving gas and well the tires are only rated for the speed unless I want to bump up to a bigger size which I really cant do. Were you pulling an open trailer though? I would assume they would have less tendency to tail wag then an enclosed one.

if you have a manual it should be listed in the specs. I have the downloaded version and it was in there. I guarantee it is a 1.25 pitch because I had to get one longer than stock for my nerf bars to bolt up. If you have the downloaded version of the manual it is on pg 47 of 278

In 2 weeks I leave for AZ and I am loading up a 8x16 cargo trailer to bring out all my stuff. It will only be loaded to about 4000-4500lbs, the trailer is capable of 7700lbs+ so I am safe in that regard. The tires are fairly good on it but I will most likely get another set just as spares to be safe. Right now I just pull the trailer with a regular ball mount and ball on it. I will be upgrading to a WD set-up with an anti sway system. I have been looking at a lot of RV forums but thats mainly what it is, for campers and crap. Has anyone pulled a regular enclosed trailer a long distance before and any real tips or tricks I should do? How bad is it really when a big rig passes you or you pass one. Some people say even with the sway control set-up the trailer will want to tail wag, other say they have no issues. I also realize I wont be able to be at a higher speed like I would want but I guess thats just life for a long trip. Just seeing who has pulled for long distance before. I have an 03 Silverado SS that will be pulling this beast out. Oh and this is going from PA-AZ if anyone has any nice routes to take besides what mapquest gives me.

in the manual it says M10x1.25 but I thought it was M12, might as well buy one of each, i cant be for sure since I'm not looking at my bike, but it is def a 1.25 pitch. There are very few bolts that arent 1.25 pitch on our bikes

its M12x 1.25 pitch, I believe all of the bolts are 1.25 pitch and not 1.50 on shees Not positive about the length but prob 1in maybe 1 1/4in

ever get this situated?

if you got hit with a .28, you were drunk as shit my friend Unless you meant a .028. Either way that sucks, hopefully you can work something out so your not in to much sh!t

I never had any issues changing my own seat covers, even for my first time but like mentioned heat is your friend. I start at the front and line that up and pop a few staples in it to hold it good. I would sometimes, depending on the type of cover pull it back as much as i could and put 2 temp staples at the very back to hold it then stretch it nice and tights all around the sides, staple down and proceed towards the back. Once i got close to the back I would pull out the 2 temp staples i did in the beginning then staple down tighter like usual. Never had any problems. I also sometime like to shave a bit of the seat off towards the back to give it more of a seat feel so i would sit in it better. Kinda like an indent but thats just my preference.

what other mods do you have? Whitish/grey is lean so all i can really tell you is you need to richen up the jetting. Maybe drop the needle one and see. I had an issue like that with my previous shee, although I was running a 2into1 carb set-up. Had nothing down low but would open up in the higher RPM's. Had to drop the needle a notch and it helped out. Maybe try cleaning out your carbs as well.

I dont believe you need to rejet when doing the timing mod but maybe because it is a low end mod you need more fuel there for some reason. Have you tried messing with the air screws a little to see what happens as well?

wow thats the first time I found any type of info on my greydon prolines, if the number is somewhat accurate I made a pretty good choice.

depending how bad it is inside the swingarm with the previous bearing it can be a bitch to get out. If you have access to an impact gun hit the bolt with it for a little to free it up. Put the nut back on it, thread it on a decent amount and hit it with a hammer or mallet to get the bolt to slide out. It can take a little depending on how the bearings are inside. In my case, my bearing were completely dried up and basically left to nothing but the outter casing, if that happens you need to get a screw driver or something between the swinger arm and bearing case and pry it out. Good luck

I would try backing off the time a degree and see if it evens out, keep doing it to see where it works best at. How much compression you at?

depending on what seals and clips you need just call around and see if other shops have the same ones. Majority of them are used is most 2t bikes, etc. I went to my yami dealer for a couple bearings and seals and they were $16 a piece, went to the honda dealer down the street, had the same seal and those were $9 a piece.

i think i got mine from pepboys for like $40, hasnt let me down yet and its been through hell

didnt see it listed but all I need is the fender/radiator brackets. Only need the right side if sitting on the quad but will take both if you have em.

bikebandit always worked for me

yeah if you have access to an impact gun it works wonders, takes a whole 3 seconds to pop the flywheel off if that long using the puller with it

yeah with the right tools it takes about 10 min to do, just be carefull with the phillips head screws that hold the stator to the plate, mine stripped out because its a shiity soft metal and they were really tq'd in there. Like mentioned a puller can be had for around $15 on ebay, and if you do have an impact gun it will make your life a lot easier removing the flywheel.

the upper a-arm bolts i believe will most likely have to be stock, but if thats the case bikebandit sent me 2 of them shipped for like $15 and they got here quick. As for the other ones prob can get them at a good hardware store.

as of right now, no need to grind off the head or go with an impact, their not torn up real bad yet but I noticed that they were really easy to strip out. The vise grips will get them no problem. I just wanted to make sure I could go with stronger screws if I went that route.

yeah thats all they are is shit phillips head screws. I just wasnt sure if stainless ones would have any effect on the magnet from the flywheel. Looks like they are getting vise gripped out

going out for a few ale's tonight but cant get wasted, gotta work tomorrow and climbing ladders all day while hungover isnt fun or smart.

I can get them out if I clamp the side of the head with vise grips but I just wanted to be sure I could use a different screw/bolt. I wasnt sure if it would have any effect on the flywheel or anything

The shee is almost back together after PC and paint and I figured while I was at it I might as well throw a adj timing plate on there. I got the flywheel off no problem and everything is nice and clean in there. The stator plate screws/bolts broke freely, no problem, but the 3 gold screws that hold the stator to the plate are not coming out as easy. The metal seems really soft, as soon as I try to put a little pressure on the screw driver to turn them out is slowly starts to bend the metal. I have tried 3 different size screw drivers so I'm sure its the bolts just being a bitch (why not, every other F'in bolt was) Has anyone else had any issues like this and can those screws be replaced with better ones from a hardware store made out of a stronger metal? Before I take vise grips to the screw head I wanted to see if there are any other ideas to try.