ojcool

Heres the link to his website http://www.mrcrankshaft.com/

Well I share a brian with someone, does that count? I have every confidence in this guy. All he does is rebuild cranks for motorcycles and ATV's. Really nice guy who will sit and talk to you on the phone as long as you have questions. He didn't say it a waste to weld, just that it's really not necesary unless, and he mentioned jumping, your really haard on them. He was very specific in the jumping that it's not the jumping really but if you rev in the air and land with it in revving. You know a sudden shock. He said that can separate a crank with just one time. However with what I do, sand drag, trails, and hill climbing. Not really needed. At least not worth tearing down to just do that. I don't know if I'm pushing over 50hp. I doubt it. Coolhead with 20cc domes Trail Port LRD's +4 timing Modded box w/ uni filter .080 over SRP cages with Boysen two stage's

Can't decide if I should split my cases while its cold. My man at Mr. Crankshaft said there really is no reason to weld unless your really ragging (doing stupid crap) on the bike, and then its not all that effective. I asked what would happen if it failed and he said alot of noise but not likely any unrepairable damage to cases. Any confilicting views on this? Experiences?

Oh, nevermind. You got lucky.

Oh, nevermind. You got lucky.

Word on that. The shift claws prob broke. I did it once. Its just made out of pressed steel and mine just broke right off. Bike was only 1 year old too. The oil is a concern though cause I did not have that problem. Did you check the shift level itself (the part you put your foot on), cause it's clamp holds the rod in position. If it got loose and slid toward the rider side of the bike the other end of the rod linkage could have moved away from the shift star or other problems. Next step: Take off the clutch cover remove clutch and you can see the linkage system where it interfaces with the shift star. You will know real quick if metal parts come falling out, look for little pieces and find everything that is missing cause there is a hole that lets oil go back into the transmission in there and if anything made it's way into the trans your going to have to split the cases to get it out. Sucks, but don't cut corners you have to find every part or your risking trans/seal problems down the road, or worse, total trans trainwreck. Best of luck. BTW the whole shift rod assembly is sold as one piece, the claws are welded on so you can't just replace the claw part (this is what most likely failed). Ebay used parts is the hit for this. I think I paid $25 or something for mine.

Yep, thats what I figured I'd end up doing. Going to go 18cc for race fuel. This bike is going to need every ounce of power I can give it. Even running triple boost bottles it's going to struggle a little.

Well that one is alot worse than this one was but as long as there is enough material I could do it. Problem is on this year bike I can't find anyone who sells a cool head for it. So I don't know how many CC's to make the head to adjust compression. I guess I'm just going to have to get the stock CC's and just take a couple off and hope it works out.

Ok, so I don't know if anyone remembers the videos I posted on this bike. It had a quick shot of the head where it had a million dents in it from piston disegration. Well I machined it on my lathe and heres what we got now. So, looks good huh, and it's not done. Just need to CC it and figure out how much to mill it by to bring the compression up to par. Not sure how I'm going to determine this.

Reed manufactures (full cage setups) say reeds richen the fuel mixture. I don't think they have any bearing A/F ratio. Unless of course they increase flow which would lean the mix.

I would not say that the "lean is mean" theory is bullshit, but I would agree that 300 is too small. You need fuel and oxygen to make power. Too much fuel WILL kill HP, however too little will destory engines. Fuel+Oxygen+timing+octane in the right proportions=We hope big Power. 350's

LRD's

Hmm, I just realized that the "dickhead boss" is George W Bush. Thank you for serving my country. What ship are you on? Cruiser? Aircraft Carrier? Armament? Is this going to be your first active combat? Tell me what it's like. Hopefully we will have a solution before you are under way. What difference do you think there will be between our two bikes. You have the power valve; so I expect you will take me off the line, untill my boost bottles kick in that is. And at the top of my powerband the magnetic drain plug will give me an edge. How do you expect to compete? Your not going to ask for 10 lengths are you?

Hey, is your Predator faster than the YFZ?

Yeah, the sandbagging is ghey. But Rich lets these guys show up with a totally different car than they say they are bringing. As far as I'm concerned "you lose" The other thing about that show that blows me away is these guys who show up with a car that is all fucked up before they even start. They always say "I spent the last two weeks putting this car together" What the fuck dude, TEST YOUR CAR before you show up. You got radiators blowing, hoses failing, oil leaks, bad sparkplugs, just total trainwrecks on wheels. I mean you see just simple maintinence issues coming up all the time. And why in gods name would you show up with a 500+ hp car on STREET TIRES!!! dude what did you borrow a set of whitewalls from your grandma for you racecar. GO BUY SOME TIRES before you show up. THEN you want to whine about it. "I'm on street tires" waaaahh "My cars knocking and has a bannana in the tailpipe" What the fuck dude it's not like they came knocking on the door and said... "lets race". You KNOW YOUR GOING TO THE TRACK, take the bannana out of the Fucking Tailpipe.... If your cars not ready... Heres a thought..... Don't go. I also hate those faggot ass shop owners who bring a $50k car and want to race some guys daily driver. You know what, I didn't realize how much I hate this show until now. Maybe I'm the jackass because I keep watching it. "Lets Race!" I'm hardcore, is anyone buying it? Nope. I'm just waiting for some import homo to say he wants to race from a roll. But if me and Toybreaker go on it's going to be totally cool.

Just want to post that Toybreaker is a real standup guy. We had made a transaction for some LT250R parts and we had a misunderstanding about it. He made MORE than good on the deal and I just want to give him props. I 100% endorse him for any transaction you may do with him. It may be a mute point if he takes my entire bike on "Pinks" and I would be happy to give it to him...... That is on the long shot that he acutally beats me heh heh. He dosent' know about my "secret mods". Ever heard of a little something called a boost bottle. Well I'm running THREE of them. Oh and a magnetic drain plug. That race would pretty much be a lock. So anyway thanks Toybreaker for going above and beyond when your working tons of hours under a dickhead boss. I know that party sucks. stu

I'm not putting my banshee up. Heres what I think about Pinks. It would be ok but as everyone has seen there is a very simple formula for winning on the show. 1) Bring a car that is 2 seconds faster in the 1/4 than what you say it is. 2) Lie about how much Nitrous your running 3) Win the first race. Lose the second. Then blow the guys doors off the third. 4) If necessary make vauge statements about "breaking" something. Prefereably your Transmission because that is impossible to prove. Now here is the simple solution to fix all that. On the last race, they time your runs, if you run faster than what you said your car would do. Automatic loss. Problem solved. Then your still negotiating but it takes away these guys ability to cheat by bringing a faster car. I agree that the host is a total fag. He likes to look all hardcore but you can tell he's a bitch. He thinks he all built and is always wearing wife beaters, Hes just a skinny litte bald homo fag. I watched the one last night where there was a 1970 Alcohol running Nova (big block w/ blower) and a 1960 something vette with a 600+ cid nitrous motor. You could tell the host was really nervous doing this race. He was shaking though the negotiation ect becasue he knew these guys were serious racers, not the typical shop owner pussies that come on all the time . The guy who had the Nova was cool as shit, he was no pussy, asked for NO lenghts. He lost too. Sucks if the guy with the vette had any ethics he would have given that guy his car back. The Nova guys goes "heads up is a mans sport, giving lengths is gay, if you do win, you really haven't proven anything". If I was serious about winning I would bring a car with 4 nitrous kits on it. Then they guy has NO IDEA what he is negotiating when he askd to have a stage removed. Or just run a progressive kit that you can program. Or even better bring a Turbo car with nitrous too, both with programable boost controller/N20 Controllers. Then you can adjust the car from a 14 second car to a 9 second car. I don't expect the show to last much longer with the current rules. Would be cool to see an ATV show though.

Anyone want to sign up for Pinks and do a 300' drag against my super awesome LT250r?

To do it right you really need access to a metal lathe. I'll do them for $20 and freight.

at 160+ psi it is generally reccomended that you start running higher octane than 93

The most important thing you need to do is rejet your bike for the changes.

I run 13/41 I am in second gear for most of the time on anything technical. I have a trail port by the baddest porter to ever grace the Banshee HQ (me) 20cc domes +3 timing LRD pipes Uni Filter in modded box ( I switched from Pods due to constant problems trail riding with them) I run 93 octane with an additive. And my dick has grown 3" since changing the gearing. But honestly it's really a little low. You may want to stick to stock.

Don't order anything from Motorhelmets.com This company strait up SUCKS! I ordered some riding gear for my wife from them on December 19th, expecting to get it for Christmas... Guess again. They did not even contact me via email until the 29th to say that the pants I ordered were on backorder.. They asked if I wanted the rest of the order to ship and I told them yes... It is now January 9th and they STILL have shipped NOTHING.. When I contacted them about it, the said "oh, the holidays pushed everything back". Don't get lured in by the cheap prices.

I figured there was something about them.... The LT is going very slow to be honest. I get the frame stripped and have been working on finding an engine solution before I start investing any money into parts. I did buy a set of Maier Plastics of FleaBay for $90. .... You have to religiously check ebay but eventually you find a deal. I could easily turn those plastics around for $180 if not 200+. I have found the key to Ebay is finding a seller who puts something unusual in their title for example, I usually put in the search: LT250R Plastics, These were listed as: Quadracer Plastics, no LT250R in the title so of course no one saw them to bid on them. So if your creative in your searches it pays off. I got a MesaBoogie guitar Amp one time like this.. Instead of Mesa Boogie, he just put : Tube Amp in the title. So I got it for half what they were going for. Anyway I have a deal worked out with ToyBreaker on a complete engine that will hopefully solve our problems and things will happen quickly once that is done. Bought a cheap poweder coating machine to do A-Arms and hubs ect., Frame is just too big to cook so it's going to end up painted. It's going to be Black Frame with yellow plastics and a vein silver powdercoat on the A-Arms. Gloss black powdercoat on the hubs. Swingarm I guess will just be aluminum.

http://www.lopacki.com/foredom/handpieces/#ang This is the cheapest I have ever seen a right angle flex shaft tool. There must be some reason why people have not bought these for porting.