00tbanshee

i ran jeffs clutch on my 4mil on gas for most of the season and worked good till the last race was starting to slip some,but the last couple races switched over to alky and think it might of been little to much.i was happy with it though.i am going to try the slingshot lockup that goes under the stock cover this yr as well.

if you don't jump much with it i would go with a nice dune port job

how lond of swingarms are you guys running?also does prowedge 2's work there are paddles better.can you hit me up with a website or a addy that i can search it to see how many miles it is from here

when is it?i have to find a set of paddles and get me a longer swingarm.you guys don't run wheelie bars do you?also i will be running a cub this yr.kevin wants me to try one out that he has done for a season.

brad once you get it set up for these harder tracks think you will do better.yours seems the faster out of all the bigger motors i run against.(over 500cc trex's,10mil stock cylinder,4mil and 7mil stock cylinder big bores)

some times are just hard for some people to swallow.just look at my bike,i run 500ft along with brad(banshee332).the shitter track we run at i went a 5.9 and brad never went in the 5,s and the better track we both went 5.5.my motor is just alittle motor check my sig.and am running a stock chassis nothing cut off of it and i way about 235.brad is running a 10mil cub cylinder drag chassis and weighs less then me. to watch looks like he should be running alot faster times then me.that just goes to show that the bigger motors are not always faster.just looks like brads motor over powers the tracks we run at and mine goes straight and i s smooth the whole way down the track about everytime.

got me one.it looks good

brad i believe your 10mil is the hardest running cub motor i have seen run yet in person.

depends on what kind of riding you do and what kind of port work you are going to have done

not sure what your port work is like so couldn't say yes or no.its possible

i ran a set on my 4mil this yr and never had a problem with them.i set mine up without a sync tool but with one it would probly be easier.they even work well when converted to alky.

if so that can be a fun job getting the rod out.might get lucking and come right out but i wasn't that lucky.i would invest in the pancake bearing anyway.

they might clear with that intake you want to run if not just get a set of reed spacers

kevin is a great guy.let me know how you like it when you get it together.what kind of port job did you get.

depends on if you want to run race gas or just out of the pump and what type of riding.i liked the 19cc domes but you have to run c12 or cam2.if kevin is doing your motor he will tell you whats best

ok thanx

jbooker82 shows what the exhaust prts look like squared off.might be alittle more work then you want to try and do though.

i raised the intake like 2mm and open the exhaust wider 2mm and squared it off so raised the top corners like 2mm to make it kind of square.don't have pics of that sorry its been a while back and don't have the cylinders anymore.i used a die grinder and to notice a big difference you have to do the sleeves

here is a pic of the intakes on my old cylinders i did

just kind of knife edge the bottom bridge in the transfers and the bridge in the intake

can you do it on the pwk's

is there a carb that i can switch from gas to alky and back to gas when i need to?

yeah you just sold me i will have one.lol

that be cool.thanx

in sig also