Docsl98

If you read the thread you would see I replaced the choke tube. Thanks Anyway. Did an ignition check, stator came back fine, I'm about 99.9% sure it's the coil as I'm getting NO READINGS from it. I cut the wire back to expose the plug wire and still nothing, so I'm going down to chaparral today to test one of their new coils and I'm pretty sure I'll have the problem fixed. Guess this was probably one of those 1 in a 1,000,000 coincidences. Thanks for all the help and input I appreciate it.

I'm asking for help. I have done everything you've talked about. I haven't owned a banshee before and frankly with this hassle probably never will. One cylinder is just easier to deal with. The only thing I haven't done is a leak down test. However, I have broken everything down and retightened everything. I've been through the carbs thoroughly. I've taken both carbs off and removed all the jets and made sure all of them could be seen through. I then have gone back through to make sure everything is on as tight as it can be. I am looking for help from people with experience with banshees. Can you work on and get a corvette running and modified to go faster? I can and it's unreasonable for me to assume that you can, regardless of your mechanical background, so please don't insult me.

I made sure that was replaced when I rebuilt it. What is the proper gap? How can that be adjusted?

thanks, I'll check them when I get home.

It's getting spark, but I don't know if it's good or not. I have what seems like a very detailed owners manual, that details everything from engine rebuilding etc... Will that work? I have checked each boot and the are def. not cracked at all. I have suspected electrical for a while, I will make an attempt to check everything, although I have been told by dealers before that there is no effective way of testing a cdi box, so I will test what I can.

Will new clamps, new boots, or both create a better seal around the carbs, because like I said I can't tighten down the clamps any more. My dirtbikes never had this issue because there was always plenty of room for more tightening of the clamps. All gaskets have been replaced on the top end with a metal cometic gasket kit. Would liquid gasket possibly help, because the old gaskets were not metal.

I have an ohm meter, but what is a clymers?

Reeds are beautiful, look brand new, and a crack would probably cause more top end flutter than hard starting wouldn't it?

Already removed the ignition cover thinking the exact same thing, all stock , stock locations. Why would the air filter have triggered a stator failure?

Just switched them to rule that out. Before I saw a line in the window right near the top, now it looks like there is a metal casting hole that is visible through the hole, still wont start. I don't see anything pink on either carb slide when I pull them out.

I only take the slides out one at a time when I'm working on the bike. They are in right and are in sink. I've also pulled both carbs completely apart and cleaned out all ports openings and jets with carb cleaner.

Also it has FMF pipes and removed tors, I have disconnected the tors box also and it's jetted with 300 main jets.

Yes cleaned thoroughly with K&N kit and reoiled, but it won't even start without the air filter now either. And I've tried three sets of new spark plugs.

OK, So I'm rebuilding my Brother's Girlfriend's Banshee. It refused to start, so I took it apart and it threw a circlip and the wristpin ate a huge groove in the cylinder, so we got a new cylinder and had both bored out to 65 mm. I got everything back together and it fired on first kick. I started it on six occassions after that for the next day with the air cleaner off and it started first kick. I then rode it around on my street with the air cleaner off and it ran pretty damn good although it was a little rich down low. I went to put everything back together and when I put the semi-dirty air cleaner back on it started first kick and within 3 seconds started dying. I gave it gas and it started to rev higher then it started popping and backfiring. It would not start after that and it consistantly backfires while trying to start it. This is with or without the air filter again. I ripped the whole bike down and took the head off again, the piston rings are still seated, I retightened everything down hooked up ALL carburetor connections securely and still no start. I have tried gas in the cylinder, starting fluid and nothing, we tried towing it behind my SUV and at about 17 mph it tries starting but just backfires the whole time. I have been working on and building race motocross bikes for the last 13 years and I have never EVER seen anything like this before from merely putting an air filter on. The only thing that concerns me is when you put the carbs on the clamps tighten all the way down, meaning I can only get them as tight as that, will new clamps help this or do I need new clamps and new boots? Could that even be the problem? I also replaced the carburetor connectiing tube with a brand new one, just to make sure that was not it. This has been going on into a 2 week project and it's really starting to upset me, Please Help!