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dajogejr

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Posts posted by dajogejr

  1. I'm assuming it the original factory clutch?

     

    If so...throw away the large rubber O Rings when you put the new clutch in.

     

    If it's been replaced by an aftermarket before, the O Rings will already be gone.

     

    I was close to ordering one...but, Tusk was out...and a Barnett or EBC from Magic was 89.99....

     

    I figured what they hey...for another 5 bucks I can get a clutch that's been working in 80 to 100HP Shees. Where, I'm not even 1/2 that...yet...:)

     

    I put all 6 HD Springs in mine...it's a stiffy. But, I also have a brand new cable and ez pull lever. Something I'd strongly advise you to look into!

     

    Good luck...

  2. Ditto what Loco said. Tusk makes a decent clutch for non-high horsepower shees...via RMATV.

     

    Too bad they've been out of stock since February.

     

    Call FAST racing...I just got mine a couple weeks ago. Best 95 I spent.

     

    Jeff's a super nice guy...

     

    I was in your dilemna at the beginning of the month....:)

  3. Seeing as how we're nearly neighbors...down good ol 94...you're at the same elevation as I am.

     

    What other mods do you have? Pipes, reeds, etc?

     

    Just removed air box snorkel and lid with a K&N filter?

     

    I'd say you might want to go 220 or 230 on the mains, if NO other mods.

     

    200 is stock, you're letting in more air now. Did you adjust your air screws at all?

     

    Since you're flowing more air, might want to turn them in a 1/2 turn. 2 out from the seated position is stock....in is a bit richer...

     

     

    How do your plugs look?

     

    Ok...best way to tell a clutch....that I've found. Start out in second gear.

    get rolling to a nice easy coast. With the clutch lever let out all the way...pin the gas. If it starts revving and going nowhere...it's clutch time. If it kinda bogs..picks up...and starts revving clean and pulling...I'd say clutch is fine.

     

    Changed the oil lately?

  4. Unless I buy another quad....for racing only, I fully plan on running pump gas only. 92 to 94 octane and race gas is readily available here....but, when I take trips up north...race gas isn't as widely available...

     

    Premixing is enough, don't feel like running race gas and/or octane booster as well.

     

    From everything I've read, Noss w/ 21 cc and +4 should run on good premium pump all day long.

     

    :headbang:

  5. Thank you kind sirs.

     

    Gonna have to order mine up. Why would anyone pay 80 plus bucks for a billet, polished one when you can get this for less than half? Not like you can even see it... :blink:

     

    Beauty...I've got the top I want. Gonna test out some rockets hopefully soon, but I'm very happy with my T5's thus far. I'm just trying to make it a little smoother low to mid...:)

     

    After bolting on some VForce Reeds and a Noss w/ 21cc's...I think I might be done this year until I scrape a little extra cash for a good port job.

  6. I'm looking at the Ricky Stator timing plate...for $35 plus shipping, it's a steal.

     

    Now...I'm thinking of +3 or +4 timing.

     

    Does this hurt low end...if so, how much. I'm sure I can appreciate what it'll do for upper revs...but, I plan on trailing a bit..so, don't want to kill the bottom.

     

     

    Thanks...

     

    :cheers:

  7. Exactly what I ordered. It was 80 bucks, with tax and next day shipping from Magic (They're 20 minutes away) and UPS ground delivers next day.

     

    I probably would've saved 5 bucks or so going through RMATV...but, I'd probably have it by mid- to end of week...

  8. Buddy of mine just showed me this link...from...cough cough...a 4 stroke site.

    Good info...though.

     

    Looks like I"m gonna pick me up a DID 520 Xring....

     

    Tensile Strength Numbers:

     

     

    here are average tensile strengths of a few common chains

    primary drive 520 h racing chain - 8510

    primary drive 520 rd self cleaning pro chain - 7800

    Renthal 520 R-1 works chain - 7060

    Renthal 520 R-3 )-ring chain - 7,034

    D.I.D. 520 standard - 7200

    D.I.D. 520 ERT - 8470

    D.I.D. 520 x-ring gold - 8120

    Regina ORN O-Ring chain - 7060

    RK Takasago Chain 520 x-ring - 7400

    RK Takasago Chain 520 standard - 7200

    Sidewinder Ti series - approaching 14000 (from website)

    Sidewinder gold series - approaching 12000 (from website)

    Sidewinder SX series - tensile strength not listed

  9. Yep...a buddy of mine said the same...after doing a bit of research...

     

    Steel might not be as light, but they wear forever...I'd like a chain I don't have to adjust every ride...like this one.

     

    My buddy put it back together, knowing he was going to sell it right away...so, he prolly just got a cheap ol chain.

     

    I'll see if Magic Racing (20 minutes away) has one of these X rings. If not...I'll order it up from RMATV...

     

    Thanks...!!

     

    :headbang:

  10. Got my shee used, from a buddy 2 months ago. He put brand new sprockets and chain on it.

     

    Steel @ both ends. Stock gearing, 14/41...right?

     

    The chain in trashed. I went to adjust it today...and about 1/3 of the links are so kinked/tight, it's not worth chancing a ride to blow that off and put it through my cases...

     

    So...I drag a bit with the buddies...but plan on more trail soon, now that's it's warming.

     

    What is the best ATV chain, or a very good one? I think he just put a cheap one on.

     

    Normally, I'd replaced the sprockets too, but...as said...steel and 2 months old. They don't show any wear at this point, should be fine.

     

     

    Thanks....!

  11. No difference...sorry to dig up the old...boys.

     

    I got a used 350X thumb throttle...which, I thought would be the same. Instead...I don't think it is.

     

    I'm going to off it, and just hunker down and get the Moose or Terrycable thumb throttle.

     

    Seriously...I got a brand new twist, Motion Pro. Sure was nice...but, since I plan on trailin' it with my 450R buddies...I'd probably end up in a tree...

     

    So...got the thumb...and it's no easier than I remember. Too bad I sold off my stock thumb throttle...I would've liked to compare.

     

    Oh, and of course while I was at Magic, I had to get the kit, Protapers, thumb cable AND a new rear grab bar.

     

    Might need a singles forum here pretty soon...:)

  12. Yeah...helluva guy. Now...my only problem is...Do I get a Gorr Woods/MX port, or send it to Jeff to get it done. I don't know.

     

    Ray that distributes and sells Rocket Pipes lives about 20 minutes or so from me. I'm dying to test out some Rocket pipes.

     

    I'm going to talk to Gorr and Jeff to see what they recommend for pipes...for their own port job.

     

    oh...the choices...

     

    I guess it's good to have a few quality, honest folk than none at all...:)

     

    :D

  13. Oh...yeah. They are most definately stiffer. Thicker springs, and...about 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch longer, too.

     

    Luckily...I have a 2 month old clutch cable, and 2 month old EZ Clutch lever/perch, too.

     

    Jeff said you'll need something...

     

     

    I'll have something alright. I'll have Popeye's forearms...soon!! :)

     

    Argh argh argh...

     

    Scot...it's harder to really explain. My old clutch was stock, as in the original.

    I can't say it was slipping...but, I can say as the RPMs rose, it didn't feel like it was pulling as solid as this one does. I haven't done anything else...just this clutch.

     

    Shifting, is improved...too...

    I do think I'll hit up one of the HQ members that does the shift star mod, which...Jeff @ FAST does....and get that modded, too.

  14. By suggestion of Loco...I called Jeff Wendorff of FAST racing in KS.

     

    I can't speak of a 80HP, 90HP or 100HP Shee...but, I can tell you what a difference it made in my 96...well...the mods are in my sig.

     

    I'd say I have your average joe's shee....

    Piped, jet kit, K&Ns with no airbox..and some reeds. Nothing fancy, nothing special.

     

    He sends you a mixture of Stock FZR 600 Fiber, Barnett HD Steel and Barnett HD Springs...95 plus shipping. Considering a run of the mill Barnett or EBC is normally 90ish or more, this thing is nice. You can feel the power getting to the ground better...period.

     

    Truly, though...what makes this kit is Jeff. After talking with him, 3 times now...he is the kind of guy that makes you appreciate our sport. Nice as can be...patient, and took his time. I ordered it late PM Thursday, he shipped it Friday...and I had it at my front door Monday.

     

    I called him Monday because it wasn't going in with the rubber cushions from a stock clutch...silly me. Told me to pitch those. Also told me a few tips what to look for, how to adjust it properly...etc. Sure, I could've went here, asked...searched...etc. But, service like this is what it's all about...

     

    Not like he sold me a full bore race motor, or he owed me a thing. But, he sure treated me that way....and even said, call anytime, that's what we're here for...and he MEANT it!

     

    So...hat's off. Guys like these are what it's all about. If you're tired of waiting for that Tusk clutch to get back in stock at RMATV...and have a little more coin...give him a call. It'll be worth it!

     

    And thanks to Loco for the recomendation....

     

    :cheers:

  15. Man..some of that Gear Save and Liquid Ice from my "rebuild" yesterday must have sunk into me skin.

     

    :flush:

     

    I wasn't even thinking.....

     

    True dat. Either use the master if there is one, and me pretty sure there is on a stocker...or get out your grinding gear...

     

    Geez...thanks, Milo.

    I'll be over here, pulling me head out of me arse...

     

    ;)

  16. Need more info.

     

    Your elevation, temperature you plan on riding in...and what other mods you've done to your shee.

     

    We can't tell you the EXACT jetting, but...we can ball park it.

     

    I've got T5's myself, K&N's without an airbox. The toomey jet kit I bought had 270 and 280 mains.

     

    I have 27.5 pilots in mine now (25 stock) and 310 mains. The 290's I had in before we a tad lean....

     

    Also, the toomey/dynojet needles have 6 grooves instead of the 5 on the stock needles. Put the clip in the fourth groove (4 down from the blunt end)...

     

    You really should take a look at the first post here, that's Pinned. It'll point you in the right direction.

     

    Here's an invaluable page I used to ball park mine, as well...

     

    http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

  17. If there is no master link, which...I'm assuming you looked for one, there is only one EASY way to do it, without getting a chain breaker...etc.

     

    Loosed up the ass end, turn the adjusters all the way out (Loosens the chain by sliding the bearing housing forward) and walk it off your rear sprocket, then front, then over the tire...

     

    Are you looking to take it off and clean it...or replace it?

     

    Clean it...you're good from there. Replace it? Any new chain will have a master link in it.

    Some may have to cut a few links off, depending on your gearing. Any reputable motorcycle/quad dealer/shop can tell you how many links to cut off.

     

    Remember, if you're replacing the chain, replace the sprockets, too.

     

    Worn sprockets can quickly ruin a new chain, and vice versa...

  18. I haven't gotten the throttle yet...a little problem with payment/shipment issue.

     

    I haven't gone out and bought a new cable yet, even though Motion Pro tech support told me their twist cable will NOT work with any thumb, OEM or aftermarket, I'm still leaning on a prayer...

     

    Only way to know for sure is when it's here...and ready to go on.

     

    I'll post back once It's in my greasy paws...

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