fastbanshee8

Yes, just unplug everything, and leave the carb tops, and throttle cable alone. It should be fine, until you switch out your carbs. The reason for removing the carb tops with the TORS swithes, is to clean up the carbs, and make rejetting easier.

I just looked in my Clymer's manual to make sure of the gearing, and 13/42 is stock for 1987-1989, and 14/41 is stock for 1990-on.

It will still run, as long as you unplug all of the TORS shit. Be sure to unplug the black box underneath the left side of the frame, and toss it as far as you can.

The grease zerk mod is great, if you remove the inner seal from each bearing, so that the grease gets to each bearing. It will make them last a long time. I did the grease zerk mod, and new bearings over 5 years ago, and I still have the same bearings in it, and they are still in good shape. The grease zerk mod is more of a preventative maintenance mod, than anything else. Your parts will last a lot longer, and keep the rust, and corrosion at bay.

I know that, but he didn't say if it was done recently, or not. Hell, the top-end rebuild could be a year old, or better. The reason I replied like I did, was because we've had numerous people on here, try to put a cool head on, with smaller domes, to try and fix their compression problems.

No, you should not have to rejet, for a new head. Putting the 19cc domes in the cool head will raise your compression, but it won't hide the fact, that the motor is due for a top-end rebuild. Raising the compression with a smaller dome, is just a band-aid solution for your low compression. You should port it, and do a top-end rebuild at the same time, so your motor is in good shape. That is the best way to get the most out of the mods.

Get rid of the boost bottle, and put the tube back in the intakes, because the boost bottle will eventually end up cracking your intake boots, causing an air leak. Get it ported, when you do your next top-end rebuild. It doesn't look like a top-end rebuild is very far away, since your compression is at 110. Once it drops to 100 or less, it's rebuild time.

Mine used to do that with the stock carbs, after I got rid of the TORS. If you have got rid of the TORS, make sure the ends of the throttle cables are setting down in the adjusters, on the carb caps. If one of the cable ends gets pulled out, you won't be able to kick start it, but you can pull start it, and it will rev to the moon.

Bad axle bearings, or a loose hub. It could be a lot of different things, but you could start by checking those two, and let us know what you find.

PM Fastoys on here, and he can answer all of your questions. Porting is adviseable for the 4mil, if you want to get the full benefit from the stroker crank.

If you go with a 4mil crank, it will get fairly expensive. You will have to have the porting for the 4mil, bigger carbs, pod K&N's with outerwears, good reeds (V-Force II's, or III's), pipes (CPI's, Shearer's, Rockets, etc.), stroker domes, longer swinger, good clutch, a longer chain for the longer swinger, a complete gasket and seal kit, billet impellar, and that's all I can think of right now. You may already have some of the parts now, but it starts adding up pretty quickly, and if it's for the dunes, you will need some good paddles, like Haulers.

I jet mine, so that for every 10-15 degrees increase in temp, I decrease the jet size by one size. Try going down one, or two sizes, and do a plug chop to check the jetting.

http://www.rocketpipes.com/

The main thing that I've been told about them, is when the front end comes up in the rough stuff on a Banshee, it gets really hard to get out of the gas, because it rolls your wrist back, adding more throttle. There's a lot of difference between a Banshee with a twist throttle, and a dirt bike with a twist. The dirt bikes are a lot lighter, and easier to handle, than a Banshee. Try one of the extended thumb throttles. I've got one, and really like it.

Just remember, not all paints will stand up to gas, two stroke oil, and carb cleaner, so pick your paint carefully. Some of the engine paints, available at auto parts stores should work.

I got one off of Ebay 2 years ago, so check there, and with FAST. Mine was just for the engine side covers, and the intake manifolds. Stainless steel socket head capscrews are a lot nicer than the stock philips head screws, and they don't strip out near as easy.

Your first, and best step would be to buy a Clymer's manual, look it over, and then come back here, and ask questions.

That's one of Ebay's new methods of decreasing all the fraud on the site. It's supposed to keep the spammers from getting ahold of your Ebay ID, and sending out phishing emails.

If you ran it very long, with it being rich, you could have had excess unburnt fuel, and oil get into your silencer packing, and pipes. If it's jetted right now, it's probably some of the excess fuel, and oil burning out of the silencer packing, and pipes. If it bothers you, just repack the silencers, but it will still smoke a little more than usual, until the crud gets burnt out of the pipes.

Have you ever changed the packing in your silencers? I know it may sound like a dumb question, but if the packing is plugged up, it will make them run like shit. It happened to my brothers Shee several years ago, and it was having some of the problems that yours is having.

Try leaving the choke on, after it's warmed up, and see what that does to it. If it runs better, then your carbs are jetted lean, and if it's worse, then you are to rich. Backfiring is a sign of being lean, but it can be caused by dirty carbs, to lean of jetting, or restricted fuel flow.

When running without the plate, you only have one place to put a base gasket, and that's between the cylinder, and the case, but with a stroker plate, you need two. One between the plate, and cylinder, and the other between the plate, and the case. That's what the fuss is all about, just one more place, to have an air leak.

You are correct, about the pistons, and rods, but since the wrist pin in the piston is only moved up 5mm, to make up for the longer rod, you still need something to keep the added stroke of the crank from shoving the pistons into the head. Therefore, you either have to run the 2mm stroker plate, or have your domes cut, and you chose to have the domes cut, but this causes your port timings to be off. Now you need to have it ported, so that the port timings are correct, in order to get the full benefit of the stroker crank. You can run it with the port timings as they are now, but you won't get the full benefits of the stroker crank. With a stroker crank, the piston top will be 2mm higher at TDC, and 2mm lower at BDC. Hope this answers all of your questions.

The needle, and seat above the float is bad, or your float height is adjusted wrong. Make sure the float is adjusted right, and if it still leaks, then it has to be the needle, and seat. You can't always tell if the float needle, and seat are bad by looking at them, but if you've cleaned the carb good, and your float height is adjusted properly, then a bad float needle, and seat is about all that could be wrong. If it ends up being a bad float needle, and seat, then you should replace them in both carbs.

Well, that's one reason to check your Blaster over, before riding it, and after riding it. Make sure everything is where it's supposed to be, and working.