Doodle

This may be a dumb question, but I still have stock exhaust and I'm ordering either FMF Fattys or Pro-Circuits. Can you use the stock exhaust springs or do you have to order new ones?

Does anyone have any experience with Pro Circuit's? I'm just curious if they are more of a top end pipe or more like the Fatty's.

Sounds like it may not hurt to try one out. Hell for $35, how can you go wrong.

I was wondering if anyone had ever installed those cheap Tusk clutch kits from Rocky Mountain. I was wondering if they were shit or comparable to Dirt Diggers. You usually get what you pay for, but I didn't know if anybody had an opinion.

Well I've been kicking around the thought of getting a new YFZ450. I have a stock '99 shee that still runs great, but I really need to do some work to it to make it faster like pipes, porting, etc, etc. Everybody has been telling me how fast the 450's are and how well they handle. I briefly rode one down at the dunes several weeks ago, and I was impressed with the power, I just didn't like the fact there isn't the typical powerband "kick" I get with the shee. As I'm still deciding what to do I was wondering how much more reliable a hi-performance 4-stroke is compared to a 2-stroke. I know alot of people get 4-strokes for their reliability, but it's my contention that the "newer" 4-strokes will have just as much maintainace as a 2-stroke. I'm not very mechanically inclined, but I rebuilt my top-end last spring with help from this forum and help from my friend's. It wasn't that hard. I would think tuning a 4-stroke may be harder? I dunno know. I'd like to get some opinions before deciding what to do.

Thanks for the info. I'm headin to the dunes this weekend. I'm going to run it for a while, drain the oil and then see what it looks like.

I've heard that if you have "milky" looking oil after you drain the bike you have a coolant leak probably due to coolant getting past the water pump seal. I think I may be starting to have this problem. The thing is that it seems like I have to put a small amount of coolant into the bike about every other time I ride it. when I check the oil level right after riding there is alot of "bubbles" on the end of the dipstick and to me it appears to be somewhat milky white. However, whenever I change the oil it doesn't have that appearance. Would the effects of this "milky" appearance decrease if the bike was cold or would it always have that appearance. I don't know if anyone else has had this problem or not. If I have to put coolant in it every so often it has to be getting out somewhere I guess. Lastly, would it be detrimental to the bike if I ran it with some coolant with the oil? I've probably answered my own question but I was just wondering.

I had the same thing happen the other day. I kicked & kicked & kicked the S.O.B. and it wouldn't start. Starting looking for air leaks and found the choke tube had fallen off. I can't believe you could get it started cold like that without it on.

Thanks for the info. I think I'll probably go with some Fatty's. It sounds like they would be the best all around pipe.

I was looking on Rocky Mountain ATV at FMF Gold Series pipes and I saw that there are two choices. One is the "Fatty Torque" and the other is "Gnarly Torque". Is there any difference between the two? I was also looking at some Pro-Circuits and I posted a topic a while back about differences between the two, but nobody really ever comented on the Pro-Circuits much. I have a stock bike and I just want to add some power and looks. From what I've read it sounds like the FMF's are a better low end pipe whereas the Pro-Circuits are better for top-end. If anyone can comment on this I would appreciate some feedback before I decide what to do.

I was wondering what anyones opinion between Pro-circuits and FMF Fattys. I have a stock bike that I just want to give a little more power. I really like the looks of the Toomeys, but there more expensive. If there is a forum where I can go to look at opinions of all different pipes I would like to know where to find it.

I've been looking on ebay trying to find a set of pipes to get me by. I don't really care if their real shiny or not, but I've seen some that have small dents or dings in them. My question is can this make a significant difference in performance of the pipe. I've had people tell me that it really screws up the geometry and flow of the exhaust and will rob performance. Just wondering before I go and buy a set.

I was just wondering if anybody has ever put any of that 104+ octane boost in with the pre-mix. I have a stock bike and I didn't know if it would make any difference or just be a waste of money.

I was wondering approximately how much coolant does the radiator require? Also does it make any difference if you run regular anti-freeze or something like Cycle Logic Engine Ice. I bought some of that expensive stuff and it says it's supposed to really reduce engine heat. I guess I'll find out.

According to Wiseco's instructions every time you hone out a cylinder you should chamfer all the ports to rid the cylinder of any "burrs".

I just got my cylinders honed out and I got a new set of Wiseco pistons. When I read the instructions on installing the pistons it said to make sure and chamfer the ports. My question is how do I do this and what tool do I need to do this? Any help appreciated.

I have a stock 1999 Banshee that has never been "freshened up" yet. I've decided it's probably time to do some work to it. I should have checked the compression to see what it was before I took the motor out, but I wanted to at least replace the rings. I had several questions in this regard. Since the bike is 5 years old would it be better to go ahead and throw new pistons in it or just replace the rings. The cylinders and pistons look pretty good, but since I have everything already tore apart, it may not hurt to do it right. Plus, the rings are like $25-35 a cylinder and you can get a complete piston kit for $150. My other concern is whether I should bore it out or just hone it? The local "stealership" want's like $50/cylinder to bore it out. I guess I was wondering is it always critical to hone the cylinders out if you're just re-ringing it? If I decide to put new pistons in, could I just hone it and throw in a set of standard bore pistons? Any suggestions appreciated.

Can someone tell me what jet I should run on a stock banshee with a K&N and no air box lid? I am currently running with an airbox lid right now and the jet I have is a 220 and I'm at 3100 feet. I didn't know if I should go up a jet or not if I run without the lid.