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bad ass bike man....everytime it comes up for sale I never have the cash flow. If you decide to hold onto it, let me know if you are still interested in getting rid of it around oct/nov. You get to take it through any trails or anything? Bet it turns and handles a lot better than a stock geometry setup.

are your bearings new? You said you're only going for 3 days correct? Just made me think that I always bring extra axle bearings (actually I bring an extra of every bearing). The thing that sucks about where the place is, is that there is nothing for miles upon miles. There's a little shop in gilbert that you can get brakes and such, and you could get any part overnighted there (it costs a pretty penny though considering where it is) Dont know about gilbert, but halfway between Gilbert and Man (little closer to man), there is a little neighborhood community that you have to cross this metal rickety bridge (to the right of the road, across from the bridge, there are rocks with words, and a cross on them). After you cross the bridge, bear to the right a little bit, or ask someone where Jim's is. It's a mechanic shop and he's got a welder there. Doesnt charge a lot to weld stuff for you, and his welding isnt the best in the world, but every weld we've had him do has held so. This is also where we stayed at (blackbear lodge), and there is a back way that the locals showed us to get into rockhouse. It's really sweet because it puts you right into the heart of it, instead of having to take the longgggg entrance trails to get into the main system. Another thought, dont EVER stay at paradise island. It's cheap, but the place is a dump....literally, they got grant money from the state to turn the dump into a jesus type campsite. (It's right near the bridge I was talking about). It's worth at least driving by and taking some pictures....but you should really stop in to see the jesus rock and get a souveneir.... Only way I'd stay is if I had an RV to reverse osmosis the water, because like I said...its a dump. all in all, they are pretty cool communities. The locals love having the riders around because its bringing a boom to what were dying communities. Only people that arent too happy are the guys that are in their 40's or so, that grew up riding the trails for free and with noone else around to bother their riding. Sorry to go into this shpeal, but the question reminded of bearing issues. Basically, riding down there will tear everything up.

Look in the for sale section at the banshee broke is selling. The engine in that quad would be a pretty sweet setup for your riding (you'll have the powervalves for the low end power at the track coming out of the corners)

you running an open airbox? I run the foam filter because every time I've run a K&N I've ended up with crap inside the intake tract. I'd definitely run at least an outerwears on the filter sounds like a pretty good setup you got there. If you plan on going there often I'd plan on going with a wider suspension and better shocks. It'll beat you up on some of the nasty climbs, and after I updated it actually made it a ton easier to get up some of the stuff. Dont forget to bring zipties, electrical and duct tape, you never know what you might need them for. It's cool you have a rincon going with you, try to strap 2 gallons of fuel on it, you might end up needing it, and at least you guys will be able to stay out there longer. Do you have a grille cover? I had one with slats in it that I ended up taking off because it wasnt flowing enough air. Throw a little water wetter in the coolant and it'll cool a little better. You'll be basically either going up hill or down hill the whole time. Bring LOTS of brakes. You'll end up going through a set a day probably, especially your rears. If you are riding with mostly 4 strokes, always ride a gear up and conserve fuel whenever you can....trust me, it'll eat it up out there. Last time I went it was my shee, a 250R and 2 400ex's, the R and the shee, we're conserving fuel when we ride with the 4strokes. The one day me and my buddy with the R got up early to really rip the trails like 2 strokes can, and I burnt through about 3 gallons in a little over an hour Have fun man, and take LOTS of pictures. It's hard because you want to be riding all the time. Theres a really good open spot if you come in from gilbert you have to hit it, there's a pretty cool hillclimb there too. I've got a helmet camera now because it was too hard to take pictures all the time and I'd bring my camcorder but never film anything, so now I just look where I want to shoot and its always rolling. Post up some pics when you get back.....its the Glamis of woods riding.

because if their is end play it can cause the flywheel to move in and out correct?

They dont check but its a responsible thing to do (and they could stop you and check if you would happen to run into someone out there, not likely but you could) We just cut out screen and remove our silencer ends and put screen in there, only takes a couple minutes, doesnt affect anything really, and it may keep one of the most beautiful, challenging, insane woods riding areas from burning possibly. when are you going and where will you be staying? What are the mods to your banshee? I would definitely recommend some good tires and a backpack full of plugs and co2 cartridges. I run mudsharks down there http://www.motorcycletireoutlet.com/165813.htm may be able to find them a little cheaper, but I run the 21's and they do very well down there, and have been very puncture resistant for me. Definitely get some 6 ply's for up front. An oversize gas tank is a wonderful thing to have down there. Before that I used to run a backpack (with waist and chest cross straps), and throw a 2 gallon gas can back there. There is a gas station down in gilbert at the one trail head so I would also bring oil that was pre measured for 1 gallon increments. You can literally go out from dawn until dusk and never see the same trail twice. I wouldnt recommend going when there is a jamboree going on. I tend to like to hit them up the last weekend they are there. You get to experience it a little bit, the trails are very clean of debris, and you dont get the ton of riders on the trail. There is a lot of dangerous areas down there, always do a ride through before you rip through an area, the rain comes down the mountain valley's so it can be raining on one side of the mountain, and sunny on the other. You'll get runoff washouts that if you dont know they are there, could suck you off the side of the trail into a ravine with your quad to never be seen again. Ride with respect for the area, cause it can, and will bite you. Let me know if you have any questions, I go down there every year. Browning Fork (Rockhouse), is by far the best trailhead down there. Pinnacle in my opinion is to far away to be worth riding. It's a different area to ride, but their black trails are like the blue trails of rockhouse. If you are only going for a week, stick with rockhouse. It'll take a week to get used to it, and get adjusted to the trails. The first 2 days, I would go by the map, and decide what trails you want to ride, are able to ride that arent out of your league and are the most fun. They cut trail 10 straight through the center where you used to have to loop way around and it would kill a lot of fuel, so now you can get to almost anywhere on a tank of gas. We used to not be able to make it from the top to the bottom in one tank. After you ride for a day or 2 and see what you like, get a sharpie, a piece of cardboard, and a freezer ziplock bag to store it in, and right down what trails you want to ride in order (like L10 (left on ten), R29, R64, L10, etc) It'll keep you guys from stopping at every intersection look at the map, and then decide where to go.

got one, can get pictures if you want but its brand new (was gonna redo an extra seat I had laying around), and still in the box. 30 + shipping from 19446 I can get you pictures if you are interested

just a question but why are you going to continue to run the airbox lid? It's a difference of like 3 main jets when you remove it and a great increase in power. I've run the foam filter setup you are getting through some nasty terrain and only time I ever got anything in my intake was when I was in a water hole that went over the seat for a second. When I get my engine back together I'm going to be running an outerwear cover setup to prevent water even more. When I oil my filter I spray oil on my hands and rub a thin coat of it over the outer filter. In dirty conditions it tends to attract dirt to the outer filter a little bit, but water just beads off of it. As far as rejetting goes with the airbox lid on, I run 310-330 with the lid off (310 in the summer), so I'm guessing you should be right on with the 280's still, but you might have to go to 290, do a plug check and you should be good. You might want to try putting 27.5 pilots in and see if you get a little better response in the lower rpm range when the powerband is starting to come on. If you got the money I'd get some vforce's and if you're on a budget for now I'd get some boyeson dual stage epoxy reeds. They'll improve your throttle response drastically. Think about opening that airbox lid up though.....its worth the power, and that filter can take some punishment.

titan bought the molds I guess, go here: http://www.atvtires.ca/ATV%20Tires%20Titan.htm

yeah, the powerband hit is going to be a little different then with the blaster, especially if you have toomey's on it. They are more of a lightswitch powerband hit and they wont have the same pull down low as a blaster will feel like it has. In reality, you probably have more power down low then the blaster, it just doesnt feel like it because when it wakes up its night and day. Clean the carbs real well, get some reeds for it, tune it up and you should be a lot better off. Dont know what kind of terrain you run, toomey's are good pipes, but they are for more of an open area of riding. If you run in the woods a lot, and some tight areas, you might want to think of moving to a different pipe that better suits your riding needs. I run LRD in the woods and swear by them, but their are also paul turner mid's and some 2 into 1 pipes that will give you all low end power.

yeah....its pretty coincedental.....but look up all the threads on this site about the stators going bad right away....and not even working right out of the box. Thats why I said "It could"......its something to think about. But if you look at everything with a fine tooth comb and everything comes out how it should be....only last thing it could be is the stator.

well....it would be nice to have a tach, especially to look down at it a little bit to see where the powerband is coming on real well (for the most part you can feel it, but its still nice to be able to look as well) You'd have an easier bet getting a dyna ignition with a tach plug in

next thing I would do to it is go over it with a fine tooth comb because the dealer touched it Actually, get some vforce reeds or some boyeson dual stage epoxy reeds. It'll give you much much better throttle response over stock, and make your shee much more rideable, First thing I noticed after I put them on is that it went where I wanted it to, when I wanted it to when I hit the throttle.

there's a bunch of things that could be your problem. 1st off, is this your first 2stroke? 2strokes are powerband engines and they are going to be sluggish compared to when the band starts to kick in. (lots you can do though to get you a good amount of power before the powerband hits) what kind of pipes are on it? Get a picture if you dont know and we should be able to tell you. Pipes make a big deal of how the engine performs. You may have more of a top end pipe that is meant to be ridden in powerband at all times basically. It also might be sluggish because the carbs are gummed up. There is a main jet and a pilot jet (have to turn it out with a flat screwdriver). They are inside the bowls on the bottom. If your pilot jet is clogged, your engine isnt getting the right fuel flow in the beginning of the rpm band. With it sitting and having old fuel in it, the carbs definitely need to be cleaned Things you can also do to get better throttle response would be mainly your reeds. Get some vforce reeds or if you are more on a budget get some dual stage boyeson epoxy reeds. They will be night and day over stock reeds, and greatly improve rideability

It could also be that it was a ricky stator....people have been having a lot of problems lately with them since he turned to outsourcing them to another country I believe.

dont know if you are talking about the bolt that mounts the splitter to the frame, but my bolt was to short as well, so I just ziptied it

2 main questions with that setup? First, where'd you get it at? and second, have you tried removing the lid and doing a plug chop afterward? I saw in your sig you're running 310's, which is right around where I was (310-330) depending on the season of riding, so even if it cut my airflow a little bit, it still looks like a pretty solid setup. With those other setups, I dont have a problem developing something that will fit around it. I was thinking about having my dad cad and cut an L shape bracket piece that sits on the sides of the airbox and over the outerwear (he does precision engineering for a company that does the leads for pacemakers and other bigger stuff), and then have the clips still hold the metal piece on. Have some rubber type clamp setup to hold the outerwear in the piece. He'd be basically able to just cad out an aluminum piece thats the same shape as the air box lid without the inlet area.

Personally I wouldnt recommend building a quad from scratch unless you already have one sitting in front of you. First off, for the most part, banshees are worth more in pieces than they are together. You will get nickel and dimed to death on all the little stuff from washers, and sleeves, and tie rod ends and tie rods and brake calipers and the list goes on and on and on. Your gonna have to pay for shipping on all this stuff that will add up as well. I would recommend finding an early 90's POS banshee laying around somewhere and go from there. Even if you need to buy a bunch of the big stuff (frame, a-arms, shocks, etc etc) I would at a minimum buy a rolling chassis and start from there. Start making a list of stuff you can think of that is on a banshee and look on here or on ebay for prices of what the stuff goes for.....it adds up quick

you guys rock man....thanks for the help.....everyone that runs no airbox lid (dont know why you'd run one personally), should have one of these......they gotta be an engine saver in some conditions. Hell, I've gone through trails that are fender deep holes, and top of the tire deep for miles with no airbox lid and only problem I've had was when I went in over the seat and then it just bogged for a second and kept going, but you get all sorts of mud on your foam filter and it gets wet. Cant wait to personally run one of these kits

Looking for the outerwear that velcro's onto the top of your box, or a lid system that isnt going to cut down on air flow at all that has an outerwear built into it. Worst case scenario I'd make my own, but I remember seeing it out on the net somewhere and cant find it again. Not the K&N lid, just the outerwear (never understood that lid, it's like having 2 filters?)

What mods do you have done?, what pipes are you running? etc etc. You say you gained 8-10 mph on top with the single carb and also gained down low in the woods? You used the same exact carb for the single setup as you did with the dual setup? Chances are you were over carbing the engine and thats why its running so much better now.

Good answer, good answer :beer: follow what he said and it should be pretty clean

I just sold my burgards and I put them through some good punishment with no bends or breaks or anything. Dont know about the new ones but I had to ream my spindles for them. They definitely hold up though. Only other thing I dont like about the burgards is that they use only a nickel plating for the coating and its a little more upkeep to keep them shiny, and they like to glaze over

best bet is online, not to many of them lying around. Definitely go with the poly one over the billet. Usually billet is only good for one chain break.....and even then I've seen them crack cases

I got a set of chrome FMF Gnarly's and silencers. Chrome on them has a little bit of pitting but they polish up very well still that you cant see the rust except for a few places on the inside 200 + shipping and they're yours