.

pm me a price just for the spindles if you want to separate

For hardcore beatings like my quad goes through, tapered is the way to go. Regular bearings arent meant to have up and down play, Once they get some play, they just beat themselves apart and there is nothing you can do. With a tapered bearing, once it gets play, you can retighten it and get more life out of it before it completely goes bad. I understand where your coming from though. Most riding doesnt go through the tortures my quad has gone through in the last week. Went through a set of axle bearings in 4 days. (they were all balls bearings....so they werent the best quality, but still)

I've also known of 2 people that had lonestar "lock on" hubs. They had nothing but complaints about them. They were constantly coming loose, even breaking through red loctite. My one good buddy sent them back and got a refund for them (dont know how, thats like pulling teeth) And my other buddy sold them on ebay. I'll never get those hubs.....sounds like to much trouble to me.

what style do you guys have? I got the rogue design and my buddy doesnt like how they are a little thicker than a regular grip. Says he cant hold on as good. I personally like how its a little bit bigger, I can get a more comfortable grip with them. I forget what the other design is called, its that crossweave design, was just wondering if they feel fatter than a regular grip as well? I'm probably gonna buy those grips too just to try them out. All my bikes will always run these grips from now on

coming out the pipes you might be a little heavy on the oil usage. What kind of oil are you using and at what ratio? As far as coming out of the other end of the pipe, there are o-rings that are supposed to go in there. That'll solve that problem

cool, just wanted to make sure, that little difference is like 4 degrees difference.

Gonna be powdercoating my frame and a whole bunch of other stuff soon and was looking for a good listing of trick powdercoat colors. Gonna talk to some places around here and see if they'll do custom colors for me. So a place I could buy the colors from would be cool to, so I dont have to send away the frame.

are the spindles stock, not reemed at all?

your gonna have to bring the indicator in from the front of the flywheel probably. Using that type of puller will bend it out towards you. making the front of it not completely flat.

got a question as well. Ricky stator wasnt to thorough in the instructions. For the timing plate, where are you supposed to line up the number? It says where the case splits, but do they mean the actual split line? Or do they mean where the case lip is? It's hard to explain but if you look in there theres a little lip from the top case. If you line it up with the top edge of that, your looking at like +8, if the +4 is at the actual case split. Didnt know which it actually was, I lined it up at +4 where the case actually splits (kinda hard to see where it is actually, thats why I was wondering so much)

Happy birthday man, thanks for everything over the past couple years. Those cylinders you polished are getting mated to a stroker crank Hope it wont be to much for the woods

you making any roundhouse carriers for tapered bearings?

how good of shape do the blackwaters have to be in?

I'll trade you a stock crank for a nice clean tight set of cases in perfect shape. The bottom end is still sitting together, came out of a running bike. Pulled the top end to trade for some porting about a month ago. Gonna pull the rest of the engine apart asap. Crank is a 2001 and the top end was still holding good psi on stock pistons.

which is also a good way to wear out your one way bearing a lot quicker

I agree, the hose is to long to pull the fuel in....it will eventually, but its just easier to blow on the tube. The line being long is a good thing, gets rid of foaming (dont run traxxas fuel.....it really sucks and really foams). I run trinity 20%. The revo is sooooo much faster than the tmaxx. I've launched it about 10-15 feet into the air and the thing handles like a dream in the air, you hit the brake and the nose drops instantly and rev it and it brings it up, and lands like its on pillows. It's also fun to rip it through rock fields and watch the suspension work. It'll walk up any curb and down anything you can throw at it.

damn.....that chick must've been hot......

depends on how hard you beat it......spent 1000 bucks gettin her ready to head for Hatfield-McCoy.....and I'll probably spend more than that afterward. I went through 3 sets of front brake pads and 5 sets of rear brake pads in 10 days of riding, blew my top end (think waterpump took a shit), not droppin my ported top end on there without a good solid crank, redid the axle bearings half way through, blew out a ball joint on my a-arms (dont know how I found a vw bug tie rod end in the middle of bumblefuck WV), bent the shit out of my belly skidplate, all my bearings (including the new axle bearings) are loose, all my bushings are loose.....and I'm sure theres more as well Yeah.....I beat my quad......every hour of riding is about 3 hours of work for me (when I'm down there at least)

didnt I warn you about them.....They are overpriced and not that great of an outfit to begin with. Only reason I'll ever go there is if I need a part quick.....and they have it. I guarantee you your top end is probably fine, and your pipe isnt cracked. I wouldnt be surprised if your top end was on a different bike, and you got one with crappy used cylinders with a 2 minute port job, and used cpi's that they maybe put a little chrome polish to them. Long story short....my buddy sent his 250R cylinder there for a bore and hone and someone was working there at the time that was friends of someone we had some serious issues with. Needless to say the cylinder came back with big chisel gouges everywhere on the sleeve ports. Deep enough gouges that it basically made the cylinder worth nothing. If I were you, I'd get your shee out of there asap. First of all your gonna have to rip it apart afterward and make sure they did what they did to the top end, and look inside the pipes to see how much carbon buildup there is. Send the cylinders to someone more knowledgeable about porting, get them to bore it and get a piston kit off of them. (passion would hook you up), get your pipe welded (which east coast could of done if they werent so lazy and money grubbing), and then give me 50 bucks and some gas money and I'll come over and put your top end back together again. What ya gonna do though......

sent you a pm

he sent me the stock steels, all steels are basically the same though. I'm not positive but I think that it is for the fzr600r. Dont quote me on it though. Jeff will definitely know though. I'd call him for you, but it'd cost me a couple bucks to do so.

does it work sredish?

cubs, stroker crank, and 34 keihins pinned spinning a set of new realtors sure would make a good mud machine.

and if that dont work....use a BFH

Just got back from Hatfield-McCoy and all I gotta say is these grips are quite impressive. My hands didnt slip off the bars once. My buddy on his 400ex had his one grip keep coming off and basically had to ride the whole time without a grip on his thumb throttle side (when he wasnt riding his R). I recommend these to anyone who has ever had a grip come off. It just plain sucks and I'm just glad I'll never have to deal with that situation ever again.