Banshee17Racing

From the reviews I've read and the local talk about 'em. I need a 20" tire to replace my old school Razr's...

Just curious...but how the f$ck did he bend it??

I've got the AC Propegs w/heelguards and a cut -2" stock swinger. There's more than enough room to fit up to a 22" tire. I've even had studded 22" rears on with no probs.

They're great. And cheap, too. They're easily worth the 40 bucks a tire. They'll be cheap no matter where you get 'em. But I got mine from Rocky Mountain ATV w/rims. But I think my next set will have to be the Kenda knarly's .

I've got a '98 reg. bed S-10 and the 'shee has always fit w/no problem. It fit perfect even when I had the stock swinger on it (it's a -2 now). I really didn't expect it to fit after the a-arms and axle, but it actually does with some room. It's a pain in the ass to do by yourself, but it fits. I've got a bud w/a 97 stepside ranger, and a stock 400EX. Believe it or not he actually got it to fit in there, with all four wheels inside the bed!

Both kits, the one you linked and the Trinity set up come with a 35 mm PWK carb. I'm not sure what PWK actually stands for but it's a great carb. That's what almost everybody runs with their 2 into 1. The one you linked looks like the Graydon Proline intake, but I'm not too sure that it is. That one should clean up the engine case a little better than the Trinity because it's a little longer. Different people have different opinions about the intakes. You won't see any huge differences between the two. I'm a little confused on what you've been told about more bottom end at high rev. To me, that makes no sense. I've heard people say the longer intake has a little more top end to it, if that's what you meant? Both intakes would work well with the Gorr port.

I bought mine from Shark Racing on ebay for about $35 a while ago. It was one of the cheapest I could find. There was no way in hell I was going to pay an arm and a leg for Lonestar's lock nut. I haven't had to mess with it since the day I put it on .

I REALLY recommend Gorr's port for trails. I've never been to the dunes, but I'd assume the port would work great there, too. When I first had my bike ported, I had T-5's, 21 cc domes, +4 timing, stock carbs, V-Force 2's, and a lightened flywheel. Since then I've changed to a 2 into 1 carb w/a 34 mm PJ, and Pro Circuits. The port will rip your arms off. I couldn't believe how easy it was to get the front end off the ground. The port had plenty of mid-range with the T-5's, which was something I was worried about.

I can't really comment on the shocks I haven't ridden with, but I use to have Works triple rates and I now have TCS(scs) dual rates w/Quicksand arms. Gary @ Quicksand backs EVERYTHING he sells up 100%. I haven't done business with a nicer guy, yet. I've beaten the SHIT out of my front end, and they're exactly the same as the day I bought 'em. When I first bought the works shocks, I thought they were amazing, really soft ride, and they were harder to bottom out than the stockers. But when I went from the works to what I have now, theres absolutely no comparision. I have a hell of a time trying to bottom these shocks out. My front end set up cost me a little under $1,500. For me, I actually lost money in the whole process because I should have bought TCS's and a-arms in the first place. Just make sure you go with the best you can buy, because the Banshee really needs better suspension. As for the rear shock, rebuild it. Save the extra money you would spend on an aftermarket shock, and put it towards the front end. I've got a rebuilt stocker by TCS, and it's a hell of a difference over the stock set up.

Did Honda finally go out of business?!?...

I would personally look into the FMF Gnarly's like mentioned above. They're not a 2 into 1 pipe, and they won't have quite the same bottom end as one, but you'll get more mid-top out of the Gnarly's. I've heard a lot of people say the 2 into 1 pipes die off really quick. As for the head...if you're on a tight budget, just mill the stock head .30. Or you can buy an aftermarket cool head, I'd prefer Noss Machine(he's a site sponser). With the cool head you can change out the domes to get higher and lower compression(higher compression for bottom end). For the 2 into 1 carb. Look into the Trinity Stage IV intake w/a 35 mm carb (as a kit). There are other makes out there, but they don't seem to be as popular. I'm not too sure if Graydon is still making 2 into 1 intakes or not?

I've had both triple rates and duals(what I have now). But they were two completely different shocks. The brand of shock all depends on what kind of money you have to spend. I would either recommend TCS or Elka. Elka's look a little nicer, but TCS makes just as niceof a shock as Elka. I think you need to decide how much money you want to spend, which company you're going to go with, then call whichever company and ask them what type of shocks you should get after you tell them what type of riding you do.

Given you're a newbie, I think I should mention searching for this topic. Theres HOURS upon HOURS of reading about this. There a quite a few people here that have the trinity 2 into 1, including myself. I personally love it. It's easy as hell to jet, and cleans up the look of the motor. But the only other carb set-up I've had was the stock 26mm's. I really don't think you'll lose A LOT of top end compared to other aftermarket set up's. I felt like I gained power though the entire power band. And it seemed to pull even harder on top. BUT after the portwork, I'm sure I'd be a little better off with dual 33mm's...

I think i'd pass on that one, depending on how much they're asking. It looks to me like he's just got 1"x1" square tubing for a rear shock????? I know he's probably dragging, but I'd still be worried about that rear end. He could have left the shock on and lenghthened the wish bone, bringing the entire shock lower, and still have a little suspension. Everything he's done to it is just no gonna work on an MX bike (pipes, probably motor, tires, and suspension). If you do get it, don't put the stock swinger back on....just buy a -1 or -2 swinger. You can even try to find a cut and re-welded stock swinger. The stocker just isn't going to hook on an MX track. Just so you know, it's gonna be tough as shit to MX and Banshee bone stock. Are you trying to say you want to find a stock one to mod out for MX? Because in that case...if you're really serious about MX, you're gonna have an empty wallet when its all said and done.

Damn right! I just transferred to ISU as an ME major.

Not bad. I got mine off ebay for $125+shipping. Absolutely nothin' wrong with 'em. Just some crappy pics and a little dirty. I sold my old propeg's(the original ones) for close to $175!!

I would really consider giving Eric Gorr a call. I love my portjob, and would go back to him again. The whole pipe issue is kind of a personal preference. Do you wanna keep any type of top end?...then don't get a 2 into 1 pipe. Suspension is really the biggest problem with the 'shee. It just plain sucks. I had works triple rates w/rezzies for 2 years and thought they kicked ass. UNTIL I actually dropped some coin and got +2+1's, Axcalibur axle, and TCS shocks w/ a TCS rebuilt rear stocker. It's now a completely different bike. I would re-think the +3+1 a-arms. The way it sounds, you still want to be pretty nimble through the woods. I personally wouldn't want to drag +3+1 a-arms through tight woods. You'd be suprised how much more you can use your motor after improving your suspension.

I would have to agree with loco if you're going with dual carbs. But it depends on what type of portwork you're looking for..

I have a Gorr port, Pro Circuits, stock bore(honed when ported), new rings, stock pistons, stock crank, and a Noss head w/21's. When I originally got the Gorr port, I had T-5's. I personally like the Pro Circuits I have now over the T-5's, but the T-5's would work. If I were completely re-doing the motor I would go w/PC's. They are a much cheaper pipe, and I feel perform better than the T-5's with the port. If money is not an issue, I'd possible look into PTR mid's. I have a 2 into 1 34mmPJ instead of the 33mm's. I'm sure the dual 33's would have more performance. But I just can't give up rejetting my bike within 5 minutes. My motor has more than enough power for the track I'm riding. I've pulled plenty of great holeshots, and I have to say, the motor is getting me up there. I have one of the holeshots in the videos. My motor is the best, cheapest way to go about building an MX motor. BUT, that doesn't necessarily mean Gorr is the only place to look. You can easily build a motor that's faster than mine, but not for the money. If I had a bigger budget, I would look into Patriot's portwork, Wiseco pistons, with 33pwks (but that would be after the 250r geometry frame!). How much ya wanna spend?

I had the same mods you do and went to a 15 tooth even before the porting. You'll easily have enough motor to pull it unless you need a rebuild. It might be a little tall w/22 inch rear, but it would still work fine. I couldn't tell any difference when I put the adjustable timing plate to +4. But I could notice a HUGE difference between 14 and 15 tooth sprockets. In my opinion, as long as your motor can pull it, get the tallest front sprocket you can.

I'm runnin' 15-41 with porting. And I'm on a pretty tight track. I ran 15-41 before the porting, but never raced with it. I wouldn't know about the stabilizer not fitting with a 2 into 1 pipe. I would think it would fit a little easier, being that there's only one stinger. I guess it all depends on where it bends. I have a rebuildable PEP stabilizer with Pro Circuits and I had to find a longer bolt than what the kit came with in order to get everything to fit the way I wanted. I would definately look into some type of stabilizer for MX! -If the PEP, Denton type stabilizers don't work... you can also look into getting a Scotts stabilizer!

Kenda Klaw MXR's...I've pulled plenty of holeshots with 'em.

Dope is a metal band... Sucks about your computer!

Total Control Suspension