bigboybanshee

I need some help....Is there supposed to be any play in the gear that sits on the backside of the clutch basket? It's not *loose* but will rotate back and forth roughly a 1/4 inch max each way. I wasn't sure if this is normal or not... Thanks!

I would leave the rear sprocket alone at least until you change the front sprocket...T5's will definitely wake up your shee if you have stock pipes now

I've been running Dirt Devils for a year and a half now and love them, great for trail riding....I agree with "." you need to go down a size on your front sprocket to make up for the taller tire. They probably are a little heavier than desired, but with the right gearing and a set of pipes you should be able to pull them with no problems. If you decide to get rid of them, let me know, I'd be happy to pick up a spare set if they're in decent shape

I can tell you now that you won't have practically any top end at all with the mids, and I heard the high revs only give you a tad more than the mids do. Now, as far as the porting goes, I know sredish has the PT mid / Gorr port combo, he would be able to tell you how strong it is.... Hopefully within the next 6 months I'm going to be sending a set of cylinders to Gorr to port them for me, and I run the PT mids. If you're looking for other suggestions on a pipe setup with Gorr porting, you could pm stclarke, he had the Gorr port running T5's, I can imagine he saw some top end and had the solid low end from the porting...

You'll be good to go....Let us know how it turns out, I guarantee you'll notice a big difference when you go up from a 220...BIG difference

It shouldn't, mainly it'll just sputter like a champ when you pin the throttle. If you have clamp on K&N's, 300 should be a great starting point.

Agreed 100% You gotta realize that you're not gonna get 20 responses in an hour, doesn't matter who you are...lol, that is unless you post nice pics of boobies for all to see Also, I've learned that it's better to stick to one topic for similar questions because it gives the people reading it a better idea of what's already been done...more or less a starting point to troubleshoot your problems. But, back to the topic, I would change your jets first and then ride it, see if you like what you feel. If you notice a bog or hesitation in the mid range, then start adjusting your needle. If you change your jets and needle clip at the same time and don't get the desired result, you really won't know what it was that made it run the way it does. It's better to make one jetting change at a time, that way you know exactly what's doing what......make sense?

Oh no!! So you took a stock set of cylinders on there first bore and bored them to their last bore? Boring cylinders on a banshee is not the same as boring cylinders on a car. On a car, obviously you do it to gain horsepower. On a banshee, you bore them so you can re-use the cylinders again after compression gets low, once you get to the last bore and wear it out, you have to either have them resleeved or buy another set of cylinders. I'm not trying to be an ass, just making sure you understand what you did....in reality you may have gained a nut hair's worth of HP by boring them out like that. Back to the topic though, if you're at 600' above sea level, I'd start off at 280 if you're running the airbox but if you have the clamp on K&N's then I'd start at 300, maybe 310 on the mains

Boring won't require any jetting changes....What bore were you on before you put the .80 pistons in there? Depending on your elevation determines what jets you need to run...Just guessing for your mods your main jet should be anywhere between 270 and 300, pilot can probably stay the same. If you run it much more on 220 mains piped and filtered you're gonna have to re-sleeve those freshly bored cylinders

I agree with Rod, if you change your jets to the 280 mains, and your shee still is acting funny, I'd check the things he mentioned. Sometimes even the simplest things can be overlooked and cause the scenario you're mentioning. The only "true" way of knowing whether or not you went high enough on the jetting is to check your plugs. To get an accurate reading, you need to run it wide open throttle through 6th gear if possible, pull the clutch, kill the engine and pull your plugs. I'd run it through the gears a couple times before you do the chop, just to put a little time on them. Ideally they should be a nice cocoa color. If they're a light tan and dry, you're lean, go up a size. If they're dark brown or black and wet, you're too rich, drop your main a size. Just for example, I only had to go up one size on my main jet for the cold weather (280 to 290) If you have a digital camera, take a picture of your plugs and post it up here if you're unsure about the results of the plug chop.

I think going from 260 to 290 is a pretty big jump on the mains....I would try the 280 out, maybe even the 270 if it's still too rich. Remember that your pilot jet is what controls idling, so technically if it dies while it's idling your main jet is not going to be the culprit. The bog you're feeling is probably from your main jet being too rich. What do your plugs look like? It may be dying on you because they're fouled out from too much gas. Definitely buy you a new set of plugs when you change your jets again...you won't get an accurate reading without them. What kind of modifications do you have done to your banshee?

My shee is kinda limp right now with a broken ball joint but I might be able to go out there and crank her up to get a sound clip....I'll be back in a few.....

Holy shit that was hysterical!!! LMAO

Thanks guys, I got some on the way now. If this falls through, I'll let you know. Thanks again

I was doing some reading in the clymers late last night and found out I broke something that can't be fixed... lol, I'm real good at doing things like this, it seems like when I break something it's never the simple stuff... I appreciate the help! Oh yeah... Always use your ramps to unload your shee out the back of the truck

Well, I managed to break my lower ball joint on the front right a-arm. I know nothing really about suspension, so my question to you is can this be repaired or am I gonna have to replace something? I included some pics of my problem, basically the ball detached from the lower a-arm, and the ball is still bolted to the control arm. I'm just glad I wasn't riding the bastard when this happened! Any advice or help is GREATLY appreciated! Thanks

Sweet!!! I wish there were some local mx tracks around here, that's something I've always had a passion to do...I saw your pics in the images forums, is that from this track?

I'd have to agree with sredish, the T5's are a solid top end pipe. I'd try going fatter on the main and maybe lower your gearing up front to a 14 tooth. My T5's pulled like a mother on top

*bump* Anyone?

Yeah, I know what you mean! We hardly ever get snow here in Memphis but when it does snow that shit really sucks. People do NOT know how to drive in that mess!

Never tried to re-use graphics but I can imagine if it's a sticker then you won't be able to re-use them...The ONLY chance I think you'd have at saving them is by using a heat gun like sickboy said...but even using that I don't think they'll stick very well when re-applied.

I made the mistake of putting all the aftermarket clutch springs in there thinking it couldn't be that bad.....lol, wrong! Anyhow, I can't find my stock clutch springs, so if anyone has 3 of them laying around, please let me know. Thanks!

Yep

Well, you won't need to rejet for the milled head, and not for the .20 over pistons either. Same goes for the advanced timing mod. Being that you are adding the airbox and removing the 2 into 1 filter, you would want to go leaner on the main jets. BUT, since you added porting, that may require you to go richer on the jetting. When I bought my reeds it said in the package that it would make my engine run richer but I never really noticed that at all. Your pilot jet shouldn't be affected at all by these mods....Honestly, just run the jets you ran before the work, especially since the most critical part of breaking it in is the heat cycling, which your main jet doesn't even have a role in....Even if it is slightly lean with the 290 main jets, it's not gonna be too lean to where it'll smoke your rings or anything.

kenr74 pretty much nailed it...My wife's mother is a real estate agent, and there are months where she doesn't sell a house at all, she has ZERO income for those months...you have to be REALLY good at saving money and not blowing it, you never know if you're gonna sell a house or not. Also, getting started is really tough unless you already know someone in the business. Most real estate agents have been doing it for a long time and have a *set* group of clients, mainly home builders. There is great money in the business but you have to get out there and earn it. There is also an ass-load of drama in real estate...competing with each other, other agents taking your sales, etc...too much BS for my taste. Now, the best kind of real estate business to be in is when you buy a group of homes and rent them out to people, it takes some time but when those houses are paid for, that's pure profit in your pocket, and you can have other people paying the mortgage for the house you live in.....