Snopczynski Posted April 2, 2008 Report Share Posted April 2, 2008 (edited) Ok, so by popular demand here is a little how to on converting your banshee over to dc to run hids. It will also eliminate the 200w stator melted harness issue. In this post will be a wiring diagram and a few pics of a battery box I built. There is also a pic of the low loss snowmobile regulator/rectifier that I use to do the conversions. I usually use a 10ah sealed lead acid battery. You can get them at batteries plus. You can obviously change your switch options for what you run with lighting. There is also a way to run the relay on a factory ac setup to eliminate the melted harness issue. That mounting bracket on the battery box is for the relay and circuit breaker. I use weather proof fuse holders for the 15a and 3a lighting fuses. If anyone has any tors boxes, or connectors with wiring leads, I can use them for this stuff. With the bike off and all the lighting on (130w) the fully charged battery will run the lights to 10.6v in about 44 minutes. The 130w lighting will use around 11-12 amps at full charge, so a 14 ga power wire will be sufficient since its only going to be about 6-7 ft long. Longer lengths should be a bigger gauge wire. Direct wiring diagram link *Click here* Battery Link Wiring gauge index Link Edited April 2, 2008 by Snopczynski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted April 2, 2008 Report Share Posted April 2, 2008 There is also a way to run the relay on a factory ac setup to eliminate the melted harness issue. Snop, can you elaborate on this? I am interested in using a relay on my AC system. How do you wire it? Do you need a special relay for AC or will a normal relay work? thanks PHil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da-shee-s-nit Posted April 2, 2008 Report Share Posted April 2, 2008 Hey Snop, Thanks for the write up! :thumbsup: I have a couple of ?'s though. Are the circuit breaker and the charge relay the stock ones, if not where can i buy them? Also the wiring you show on the picture is it added on by you, or is it the stock wiring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted April 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2008 Hey Snop, Thanks for the write up! :thumbsup: I have a couple of ?'s though. Are the circuit breaker and the charge relay the stock ones, if not where can i buy them? Also the wiring you show on the picture is it added on by you, or is it the stock wiring? The relay and circuit breaker are add ons. The wiring is some added and some stock. The ac relay in theory should work with the stock ac or installing a diode in a splice and converting the relay trigger to 1/2 wave dc. You basically need to trigger the relay to allow the ac through when you want your lights on. As long as the lights are on while the voltage regulator is being fed, the system should not heat up and melt. So basically, having the voltage regulator hooked up with no load on the system will heat up the harness. This is because 200 watts is being shunted to ground through the voltage regulator. I also would only run a rs ac regulator with a 200w rs stator in stock type 12v ac form. So the yellow lighting wire just needs to be open circuit with the lights off. You can mount a switch somewhere and ground trigger the relay or switch the power leg trigger with a switch. One way to make it fully stock switch functional is run ground threough the switch and run power to the lights all the time. Then trigger the relay off the ground through the switch, and the power will get fed through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da-shee-s-nit Posted April 2, 2008 Report Share Posted April 2, 2008 Man its more complicated than i thought :ermm: i'm having second thoughts about doing the conversion now, man i wish i was a little more electical savy :: any other suggestions? sorry i'm such a dumb ass :shoothead: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted April 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2008 Its not that hard. Of course I am an ex Audi technician so after doing electrical work on those you can do anything. Float your ground. Hook your yellow wire and floated ground wire to a full wave regulator/ rectifier. Go to the battery with the leads. Add a ground from the battery to the frame. run a positive wire from the battery to the stock blue regulator wire or the yellow/red wire at the stator connector area. Thats the jist of it. It should work ok that way, but adding fuses, relays, and circuit breakers decreases your chance of issues with the wiring and components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da-shee-s-nit Posted April 2, 2008 Report Share Posted April 2, 2008 Its not that hard. Of course I am an ex Audi technician so after doing electrical work on those you can do anything. Float your ground. Hook your yellow wire and floated ground wire to a full wave regulator/ rectifier. Go to the battery with the leads. Add a ground from the battery to the frame. run a positive wire from the battery to the stock blue regulator wire or the yellow/red wire at the stator connector area. Thats the jist of it. It should work ok that way, but adding fuses, relays, and circuit breakers decreases your chance of issues with the wiring and components. Thanks snop, the ground is floated already. I do have the rs regulator. I'm going to try and do it this weekend. I will also see about getting a relay,circuit breaker, and fuses. Any idea where to get those parts. I hope everything goes o.k. if it does i'll post up some pics. Thank you very much for your time, you are the man bro!!!!! :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 The ac relay in theory should work with the stock ac or installing a diode in a splice and converting the relay trigger to 1/2 wave dc. You basically need to trigger the relay to allow the ac through when you want your lights on. As long as the lights are on while the voltage regulator is being fed, the system should not heat up and melt. So basically, having the voltage regulator hooked up with no load on the system will heat up the harness. This is because 200 watts is being shunted to ground through the voltage regulator. I also would only run a rs ac regulator with a 200w rs stator in stock type 12v ac form. So the yellow lighting wire just needs to be open circuit with the lights off. You can mount a switch somewhere and ground trigger the relay or switch the power leg trigger with a switch. One way to make it fully stock switch functional is run ground threough the switch and run power to the lights all the time. Then trigger the relay off the ground through the switch, and the power will get fed through. Thanks snop. Another question in relation to stock AC system. So just hook the wire coming out of the regulator to the lights direct, then switch the ground side of the relay to do the switching correct? So basically we are switching the power before it ever gets to the regulator and therefor not heating up the system. I have that part I think, and I like the idea of putting fuses inline. Now my question is the whole diode/ 1/2 dc wave thing. You lost me there. Im not an eletronics guy. Is that the only way to make the relay work with the ac system? What size or type of diode would I need (I have no clue about diodes.) thanks again Oh yeah, so could i just jumper power from the power wire off stator (terminal 30m on your diagram) and put diode in line then hook up to terminal 85? Then switch in line between terminal 86 and ground correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted April 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 go through the relay then straight to the lights. Then run ground through the switch and have that turn the lights on as well as ground triggering the relay to allow the ac through to the lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da-shee-s-nit Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Hey Snop, will this work? http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/cate...Y-351&type= Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da-shee-s-nit Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Sorry Snop, two more questions. Can you tell me which wires are the ones you added 14-16 gage? Also what are those numbers on the relay? (85-87-86) I just want to understand it fully before i burn up my shee :laugh: Thanks!!!!!!!! Also any idea where to get that relay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest utleybanshee Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 yea b/c i just did this conversion without the fuses and relays today was easy as pie... just need to get down where the relays and fuses go and i'll post some pics tom... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da-shee-s-nit Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Thanks utleybanshee, will look out for those pictures:thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted April 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 I get all my stuff freom these guys. http://delcity.net/ The relay terminals are shown in the wiring diagram. Any wire you add needs to be 14-16 ga. Preferably 14 ga. I also added a coolant bottle bracket to my battery box today. The coolant bottle fits better than with the old bracket I bought 2 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 I have to ask, why does one need to "float" the ground? I am just curious on that. We have had no issues creating DC power within .05% by using the OEM setup with full bridge rectification. Is the RS reg/rect setup differently? I mean, the voltage is potential energy and potential from ground to hot will be the same as "floated" ground to hot. Also, something we started doing years ago was re-routing the OEM light switching to kill the power to the reg without the lights on thus inducing an open line condition thus no potential and no wire heating. This also allows the OEM reg to handle the RS stator with no problems. The switch tolerates the higher voltage without any arc decay of the switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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