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Just shoot me in the head


Handyman

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Ok people ever since I bought this dann thing over 8 months ago I have had a problem I cannot fix. The left side is still cutting out and it's not in one spot in the powerband it will cut out anywhere from 1/4 - full throttle, mainly from 1/2 throttle on down. I have tried everything I can think of and everything I was able to find on this website as to what to do and nothing fixes it, and everything the book has mentioned, everything I do just makes it better or has no effect at all. The $500 I dropped at the dealership to fix it didn't even fix it they didn't know what to do or how to fix it. SO now I turn to you people once again. Here are the specs.

 

99 banhsee

stock engine/carbs

bored to 2nd over size from stock

Procircuit pipes and PC T304 silencers

dyno jet jetting

Needle: 4th clip position

Main: 340

Pilot:27.5(swapped from stock pilot this morning)

air screw: 2 turns from seated

air jet: stock

Filters: K&N Filter pods (no air box)

carbs been cleaned numerous times

carbs are sync'ed

YES THE CHOKE TUBE IS THERE AND ATTACHED CORRECTLY WITH NO HOLES

New Pro series Boyesen reeds

stock carbs boots

stock reed valve with Pro design spacer

Boost bottle

TORS Eleminator kit

Swapped plug boots from left to right....no effect

Swapped everything from left side to right side(except carb and cylinder).......no effect

 

The new pilot jet helped a little bit but not much. I know some of you may think I'm running rich but with the way this thing is running I don't want to run too lean in fear of blowing the engine. I have yet to have this think out to the track and/or ride anywhere besides my street to see if what I do makes it better so I'm getting kinda frustrated. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If nothing helps it will go back to the shop(at least a different one). Thanks in advance.

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Question: Just so I understand: Is this a hit and miss issue? Does it sometimes run fine with no missing and then all of a sudden start cutting out? You said it is at different points on the throttle, 1/4 throttle and up but then you say from 1/2 throttle down, thats pretty much everywhere all the time.

 

Sounds like you have checked almost everything but there are a couple things missing from the list.

 

First: Have you thrown a new set of plugs in the old girl?

Second: Have you checked the stock carb boots for cracks or leaks?

Third: Is your parking brake still connected?

 

The parking break can be havock on you machine if it is adjusted to loose or too tight. Either way can cause the bike to sputter at different times.

 

The plugs, had to ask.

 

Carb boots for leaks, long shot but maybe.

 

There are people on here who know the Banshee inside and out, most likely better than most dealer mechanics. Someone is going to have dealt with this before. Good luck.

 

RJV

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when my left cylinder was cutting out I tried everything possible in the electrical system. my problem was a bad connection at the coil, I soldered wires to the coil with a automotive style plug and solved my problem.

you said that you haven't had a chance to ride except in your neighbor hood. have you been able to get the machine to operating temperture?

if this miss problem has been on a cold machine, try to run at operating temperture. :bolt:

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when my left cylinder was cutting out I tried everything possible in the electrical system.

473632[/snapback]

 

 

Didnt even think about that......

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It mainly shows itself in first gear and the bottom of second gear when I start from a dead stop and it will backfire from time to time but only when I have it at wide open throttle.

**NOTE**  this problem is only on the left side

473735[/snapback]

 

Popping on the top end generally indicates a lean condition, which based on your mods you shouldn't have, unless you have an air leak. Have you tried spraying carb cleaner around the carb boots/reeds etc. If you have an air leak the RPM will rise when you spray the leak. I have a friend with an '87 who was having the same problem, but I haven't got a chance to run through it (he's not that mechanically inclined) and test certain areas.

 

It is probably not electrical, if you have swapped wires/plugs etc from side-to-side and it didn't exhibit the same problem on the right side. That would lead me to suspect some kind of carb, reed, intake type of issue on the left side. Theres also the outside chance that you may have a head gasket problem affecting the left side, letting coolant into that cylinder at different times affecting performance. Unfortunately it could be many many things, but it usually seems fairly simple just overlooked.

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Popping on the top end generally indicates a lean condition, which based on your mods you shouldn't have, unless you have an air leak.  Have you tried spraying carb cleaner around the carb boots/reeds etc. If you have an air leak the RPM will rise when you spray the leak.  I have a friend with an '87 who was having the same problem, but I haven't got a chance to run through it (he's not that mechanically inclined) and test certain areas.

 

It is probably not electrical, if you have swapped wires/plugs etc from side-to-side and it didn't exhibit the same problem on the right side.  That would lead me to suspect some kind of carb, reed, intake type of issue on the left side.  Theres also the outside chance that you may have a head gasket problem affecting the left side, letting coolant into that cylinder at different times affecting performance.  Unfortunately it could be many many things, but it usually seems fairly simple just overlooked.

473814[/snapback]

 

I have 90% ruled out that it's electrical. I will do the carb cleaner spray test tomorrow and see what happens. I have already done that with no change in the RPMS when I did it. When I installed the cylinders I was extremely careful not to screw up the gaskets and you can see the head gasket all the way around so i don't think it's a head gasket problem.

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I have 90% ruled out that it's electrical. I will do the carb cleaner spray test tomorrow and see what happens. I have already done that with no change in the RPMS when I did it. When I installed the cylinders I was extremely careful not to screw up the gaskets and you can see the head gasket all the way around so i don't think it's a head gasket problem.

473841[/snapback]

have you gone through the wiring harness to make sure no wires where pinch, melted or bare causing a erratic problem at differant rpm.

also if your screen in the tank is partially plug that will starve the left side for fuel before the right if you don't have proper fuel flow. try running in the reserve position, that is usually used less, and less likely to be clogged.

Edited by FIRST BANSHEE
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***UPDATE***

 

Well the shee runs FOR NOW. I did the carb cleaner test around where different pieces bolted together and did a leak down test and there was effect while it was idleing. When I started it this morning it bogged real bad when I hit the throttle and it would just die on my after a couple tries. I screwed in the air screws 1/2 tuen and it ran just fine but a bit boggy when I hit the throttle. Took it for a ride down the railroad tracks and it still sounded sick. When I was in 3rd gear just cruising holding a steady speed the left cyclinder cut out on me. I hit the gas and it came to life, just like it has in the past. I got back to the house and turned in the air screw 1/2 turn so now it's at 1 turn from seated. The throttle response was more crisp and was not boggy. I took it for a spin and got settled in 3rd gear like I did before and it didn't cut out on me. SO maybe with the new pilot jet I the fuel/air mixture was a bit off and messing with the air screw did the trick. I won't call it fixed until I ride it a few more times. Now that it's running the best it has since I had bought it I may take it out to the track or out to the trails around here and se how it does. Thanks to everyone who gave insight as to what to look for to fix this thing. Oh and yes te parking brake is still connected.

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so i also had this problem on my quad but then i tried switching the carbs left to right and so on and the problem moved to the other side come to cind out that it was a carb problem but thats just my 2 cents....

474193[/snapback]

 

I thought about swapping the carbs but wasn't sure if that was possible, so I didn't swap them.

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you cant swap the stock carbs from side to side..

 

 

do you think it could be a fuel problem, maybe with out the fuel lines are ran? or possibly the seat on the float is dirty or something..

 

 

possibly a reed may be cracked or not sealing fully..

 

is the tors system bypassed or just the carb tops removed? on mine i had to have the wires crossed from the tors system for it to run right..

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It mainly shows itself in first gear and the bottom of second gear when I start from a dead stop

 

473735[/snapback]

Just like most shees running fmf fattys like there needles in the 4th or even 5th position, most pro curcit shees like BIG pilots. I use a #30 in the summer and a #32.5 in the winter. You said that it ran better with just a 1/2 turn out on the air screws. Go bigger with the pilots and that bad stumble will disapear.

Edited by midnite
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