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Electrical Engineer Man


GleasmJA

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Here is what i traced for the TORS wiring. I want to know how/why this works? Don't downplay for me as i'm a Navy Electronics tech. I understand but can't wrap my brain around this one. I want to know where to remove all the TORS wiring, where to cut it all out at. I thought at the red " X's " and just make sure i reconnect ground? Thanks for the help.

Edited by GleasmJA
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Just unplug the TORS unit (just in front of the fuel petcock on the frame). There are wires that feed from your carbs, thumb throttle, parking brake into the TORS unit. Then, there's a wire from the TORS that goes to your CDI to handle any of the inputs. Stuck throttle kills the ignition, parking brake limits RPM.

 

When you unplug the TORS, you can pull the cap off the throttle and disconnect the microswitch in there and remove the wires by unplugging it from the main wiring harness. Same with the parking brake portion of the stock clutch perch, and finally the TORS carb caps. Get the TORS removal kit for your carbs and a new throttle cable. It makes jetting your bike so much easier.

 

Electrically, guess I've never thought about it , or cared for that matter. Your diagram is a little bit wrong though. I think there's a wiring diagram for a banshee on the site somewhere that shows what every wire routes to.

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One more thing, not a single wire needs to be cut.  Just unplug the parts that you are removing from the main harness, no snippers needed.

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When I disconnected mine, I traced each wire back to where it connected to the main harness & cut them off. I rewrapped the main harness with heat shrink type electrical tape to seal it. You don't have to do this, but it gets rid of the extra wires. :cheers:

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that's what i plan to do... is remove all unneeded wires for TORS. I plan to route all of them through the frame. So less wires to worry about the better. But i'd feel better if i understood how this actually worked. Thanks for the inputs though. I'll keep checking up for new ones.

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"i'm a navy aviation structural mechanic and i know how these guys are better dumb it down".

 

 

Is that why when all your shit breaks you always come crying to us. Can you fix our gear. :cry::cry:

 

I get the whole don't rev when in park and all. I wanted to know, things like how the signal flows. I'm nuking it i guess. But i get some good ideas from everyone here.

 

And i'll get you later fly boy

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ohh the parking brake and the torrs are seperate i believe. for how it works. the crappy torrs is like your back seat driver. if one of the throttles sticks W>T>F>OPEN it limits the rpm. it senses this throught the switches if one switch is open in the carb top an the throttle switch is closed wala no more throttle in my opinion yamaha was so scared of 2 carbs on an atv. that they reverse enginered this little disaster. the parking brake cluthc reverse do dad tells the cdi if you have the parking brake on or not not letting you ride the crap out of the bikle and wonder why it wont move. if you are smart you would remove THE ENTIRE harness cut the light wiring out of it and move the cdi to under the tank move the regulator up there also and just plug the stator straight into the cdi. you have to remake a lot of the wiring and my best tip for this is ground everything. the coil gronds to the frame! the key on is a ground signal! ... this cleans up a TON of crap. you can also move the overflow tank up to the front also. and remove all the stinky wiring / hoses from under the seat. i could post pics as i just did this on my trail ride. but they are alwasy tooo big?

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i'm a navy aviation structural mechanic and i know how these guys are better dumb it down.  come on man i under stand how tors works and didn't need to ask any one questions to get  all the extra wires out of the harness. your given us sailors a bad name. don't reconect any wires that come off of any tors component. unplug them or cut them and seal the end. how tors works. when the park brake is on it sends a signal to the main tors box under the left side of the gas tank. when you try and rev the engine the tors box disputs the cdi's firing circut thus not allowing the coil to fire every time the pick up coil says to. there for effectively limiting the engine rpm with the park brake on. the purpose of this is to prevent accidents some how. i'm not real clear as to why yamaha did this. i'm not an engineer or an electrician so i am sure that i missed some thing some where. bottom line is it is useless garbage that you should take off and throw away.

and i just wanted to raz a fellow squid.

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ohh  the parking brake and the torrs are seperate i believe.    for how it works.  the crappy torrs is like your back seat driver.  if one of the throttles sticks W>T>F>OPEN it limits the rpm.  it senses this throught the switches  if one switch is open in the carb top an the throttle switch is closed  wala  no more throttle  in my opinion yamaha was so scared of 2 carbs on an atv. that they reverse enginered this little disaster.  the parking brake  cluthc reverse do dad tells the cdi if you have the parking brake on or not  not letting you ride the crap out of the bikle and wonder why it wont move.    if you are smart  you would remove THE ENTIRE harness  cut the light wiring out of it and move the cdi to under the tank  move the regulator up there also and just plug the stator straight into the cdi.  you have to remake a lot of the wiring and my best tip for this is ground everything.  the coil gronds to the frame!  the key on is a ground signal!  ...  this cleans up a TON of crap.  you can also move the overflow tank up to the front also. and remove all the stinky wiring / hoses from under the seat.  i could post pics as i just did this on my trail ride. but they are alwasy tooo big?

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brothers??????

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the purpose of this is to prevent accidents some how. i'm not real clear as to why yamaha did this. i'm not an engineer or an electrician so i am sure that i missed some thing some where. bottom line is it is useless garbage that you should take off and throw away.

and i just wanted to raz a fellow squid.

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On the parking brake, I think they did it assuming you would be parked and in neutral possibly with the engine running. If the bike were to somehow fall into gear or your little brother climbed up on your bike and managed to force the shift lever into gear, the engine wouldn't have enough balls to take off. I've bumped my shift lever before from neutral to first without the clutch and had it go right into gear.

 

And of course, http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=56452 that is the other reason the stock carbs have TORS. Yamaha has to take every precaution they can to prevent death, injury and lawsuits. Once you take it off though you're on your own and would have no recourse against them.

 

Mostly the TORS is a pain in the ass to deal with and should just be ripped out of the harness as soon as the bike is purchased, because I don't know anyone with a bike more than a year old that hasn't had some sort of problem with it.

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I understand about stuck throttles but I thought the whole reason for the tors on the parking brake was so if you forget the brake on ya dont take off and burn the brakes off. Because as everone knows, parking brakes never stay adjusted and would most likely create some drag so you could take off and not notice, ruin the brakes.

I was told by one dealership along time ago that snowmobile guys were bad for that and were taking off with the parking brake on and some machines were catching on fire!!

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