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Banshee wont take throttle


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If throttle issue is from idle to 1/8 throttle then your problem is in either your pilot jet or pilot air screw setting. Your outside temps will make it a little bit harder to figure things out because it’s probably jetted for warmer outside temps. 
 

  I’ll be working on a banshee the next couple of days that has stock carbs with the TORS removed and it has FMF Gold series pipes and K&N filter. I have to rip the carbs apart and completely rebuild them if there not shot. I’ll see what the jetting is and I’ll post what’s pilots, mains jets are and air screw setting is. The guy told me before he put the banshee away it ran like a rapped ape with no hesitation. 

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Since Deets can't do math, thats 50:1.

Thanks for your message. That is VERY good advice, and I am definitely taking it. Yes I ran out of patience, which is why I took it to the shop. I will call them tomorrow. I am usually pretty mechanic

It's almost 29:1 Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

   Ok, I got a bit more information from the owner of this banshee I’m working on and last time he actually rode it was back when he lived in Salem,Oregon in 2015. His work relocated him to the east coast and put the banshee in the back of his garage. He didn’t think anyone in the neighborhood had atv’s or dirt bike until he noticed me working on mine in front of my garage.

 This morning I went to Harbor Freight and bought a 2.5 liter ultrasonic cleaner. So I ripped the carbs completely apart until they were a empty shell and I will be soaking them and a few other parts as well. I did a compression test both cylinders were 140 left cylinder 142 on the right. Leak down test came out good  it held 6 psi for 6 minutes with just a tiny leak by one of the intake bolts that I just tighten it up a tad bit and it stopped leaking. Both Crank seals are good and not leaking. Removed flywheel and cleaned the stator and re-adjusted the pick up.

   Other parts I also ordered 2 shindy carbs rebuild kits, a new OEM fuel petcock,Fuel line and vent tube line. I also have to flush the fuel tank out. I also have to do a coolant flush and change the trans fluid. 2 new spark plugs as well. 
 

Here’s the information about the Stock carbs I’m working on.

Pilot Jet - 32.5  
Main Jet - 300   
Air Mixture Screw - 1.5 Turns Out 
Needle & Clip - Stock Needle - Clip is on the 4th groove from the top.

 I hope this information helps you get spot on with jetting or some what really close. Keep us posted on the outcome. 

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Thanks for the info. That helps. I am also talking to South Texas Banshee. The shop told me that I had "really good" compression. But he said one cylinder was at 100 and the other was at 95. The info I am getting online says that isnt very good at all. Most people are saying stock should be much closer to 140ish. Could this be my problem? Am I in for a top end rebuiild? The shop did recommend going to a 32.5 pilot. I am going down today to get a compression tester and check it myself and do it exactly the STB does it and see what it says. WHo knows, maybe they didnt kick it enough to get an accurate reading.

Edited by 03blkbanshee
Forgot something
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100 and 95 is not good compression, thats rebuild time compression 

stock compression is around 120-130 depending on elevation

you need a compression tester that has the same thread length as the spark plug with a schrader valve.   kick it with the throttle open until the needle stops moving.  prolly 10-15 kicks for a stock motor 

Edited by Ayesully810
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I just checked my right cylinder compression. Will have to do the other one tomorrow and make sure I am actually getting the fittings screwed down all the way so the o-rings are sealing. Going to just remove the tank tomorrow. Need to remove tank anyway to install my new wiring harness. That cylinder is only at 98. So I should have 120-130 with stock motor? My elevation here is about 200 ft.

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Planning on rebuilding this motor. Hoping to have her back together and running in a month or so. Right cylinder comes out at 98 and left is about 108. Definetely doing the top end. I may at least do new crank seals while I have it all apart since I know they go bad and Im guessing they arent far from going (if they arent already).

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27 minutes ago, kawa110 said:

You will need to remove the engine and split cases to replace crank seals.
ÔĽŅ

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Yep. But I am one of these people that figure I am going this far I might as well especially since I have no idea what shape they are in or how old they really are. I doubt I would be looking at too much extra money, some of course. STB has an excellent vid on that entire process as well.

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Yep. But I am one of these people that figure I am going this far I might as well especially since I have no idea what shape they are in or how old they really are. I doubt I would be looking at too much extra money, some of course. STB has an excellent vid on that entire process as well.
That's the way to go, won't cost much and it will give you piece of mind, plus you can incpect everything, from crankshaft to gearbox while you are there.

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30 minutes ago, the boris said:

That's the way to go, won't cost much and it will give you piece of mind, plus you can incpect everything, from crankshaft to gearbox while you are there

Thats precisely what I was thinking.

Does anyone here know of a reputable company or reputable brands for these rebuild kits? I was sort of leaning towards getting a complete top end kit which basically has everything except for the head. Was thinking of going with a "cool head" for the head. I am seeing some full top end kits for around $300.00 or so, but those are off ebay. I dont have much experience with ebay to formulate an opinion...maybe that doesnt even matter. I am guessing there is another forum on here that is better suited for these type of questions.

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1 hour ago, 03blkbanshee said:

Thats precisely what I was thinking.

Does anyone here know of a reputable company or reputable brands for these rebuild kits? I was sort of leaning towards getting a complete top end kit which basically has everything except for the head. Was thinking of going with a "cool head" for the head. I am seeing some full top end kits for around $300.00 or so, but those are off ebay. I dont have much experience with ebay to formulate an opinion...maybe that doesnt even matter. I am guessing there is another forum on here that is better suited for these type of questions.

Depends on what you want. 
New cylinders? 
Or bore your cylinders with new pistons 

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8 minutes ago, 03blkbanshee said:

I was thinking of getting a top end kit with stock cylinders and wiesco pistons and get a "cool head"...that may change but that is just what my priginal thought was.

If your gunna buy cylinders, I would buy some that are nikasiled instead of cast iron bore. 
But that’s just my opinion 

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