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Banshee wont take throttle


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1 hour ago, OneBADBanshee05 said:

  What I would do is give the repair shop a call tomorrow and give them until Friday to get it running right and if not then pull it out of there before they start running up your bill up. There’s plenty of good people here with experience and excellent knowledge about the Banshee.  Everyone here probably started the same way you are. You just have to have a little patiences when working on something and when something doesn’t go right you just have to step back for a few minutes and take a breather and connect with your thoughts. 
 

  I just got done working on a guys banshee that lives down the street from me and his was doing the same exact thing as your is doing. His banshee was sitting in the back of his garage for 4 years and he didn’t prep it before he put it away for that period of time. If you decide to get your banshee out of the shop and need help I’ll be more than glad to assist you on getting it running again.

Thanks for your message. That is VERY good advice, and I am definitely taking it. Yes I ran out of patience, which is why I took it to the shop. I will call them tomorrow. I am usually pretty mechanically inclined, but am definitely on a learning curve with these...but will get there. I appreciate your offer to help, and might just take you up on it. Will keep you posted. Should have my new wire harness on the 3rd, which may or may not fix the problem but not a bad way to go either way. Thanks again.

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Since Deets can't do math, thats 50:1.

Thanks for your message. That is VERY good advice, and I am definitely taking it. Yes I ran out of patience, which is why I took it to the shop. I will call them tomorrow. I am usually pretty mechanic

It's almost 29:1 Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

UPDATE...I just got my banshee back from the shop (they had it for almost 2-1/2 weeks and I told them I was picking it up by Friday fixed or not). It runs better now, but still has problems with low throttle. They are saying that they think the carbs have a small internal air leak (atleast one of them). They tried to even it out by bringing the floats up as much as they could. He is saying that I either need to do a new set of carbs or maybe go with a richer toomey needle and increase the pilot from 30 to 32.5. These carbs are stock and this thing did sit for about 3 years from previous owner. Is it possible that these really do have an internal air leak? Is that common on these if they sit for a long time? He also says he has the air mixture screw in alot more than normal. I am planning on taking it out somewhere to see if it is going to be rideable or not. He says it is rideable. I rode it up the street here in my neighborhood and it does ok. Once you get the rps up a bit she does very well. Just that low throttle area.

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  First thing I would do is a leak down test. That will tell you a lot. You could be leaking around your reeds cages, your intake boots could have small cracks, the base gasket on the cylinders could be leaking or the crankshaft seals could be leaking. Without doing a leak down test you could be fighting yourself fixing your problem. If you go onto YouTube and search for South Texas Banshee he has a channel on there that explains and shows different types of banshee repairs. He has one showing how to do a leak down test. 

  To check if there is something wrong with the carbs you could go down to your local auto parts store or Walmart and buy a can of starting fluid. Start it up and get it up to operational temp and while letting it idle take the starting fluid and spray it on the carbs watching the area that you are spraying and that the starting fluid will affect the way it’s idling. ( it may cause it to either rev up or stall out! ) You can also do the same thing around the base of the cylinders and around the intake area as well. You can go to you local hardware store and buy the items to build your own leak down tester for a few dollars and use a bicycle pump to do the test. 

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5 hours ago, 03blkbanshee said:

UPDATE...I just got my banshee back from the shop (they had it for almost 2-1/2 weeks and I told them I was picking it up by Friday fixed or not). It runs better now, but still has problems with low throttle. They are saying that they think the carbs have a small internal air leak (atleast one of them). They tried to even it out by bringing the floats up as much as they could. He is saying that I either need to do a new set of carbs or maybe go with a richer toomey needle and increase the pilot from 30 to 32.5. These carbs are stock and this thing did sit for about 3 years from previous owner. Is it possible that these really do have an internal air leak? Is that common on these if they sit for a long time? He also says he has the air mixture screw in alot more than normal. I am planning on taking it out somewhere to see if it is going to be rideable or not. He says it is rideable. I rode it up the street here in my neighborhood and it does ok. Once you get the rps up a bit she does very well. Just that low throttle area.

so you took your banshee to a shop, he had it for 3 weeks and all he did was crank the air screw in and mess up the float level? wow, superb mechanic-ing  Just another reason to either learn to work on this stuff yourself via BHQ forums with trial and error (thats how most people here learned) or send your stuff to a legit banshee builder (reference the BHQ sponsors.) 

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If it runs good once you get going to me that doesnt sound electrical but who knows.  Usually if its electrical from my experience it runs WORSE once under load or once it gets into the power band.  

List of banshee essential diagnostic tools.

-leak down tester

-compression tester with the proper tip

-digital multimeter 

-clymers manual 

-flywheel puller 

-feeler gauges

-patience       

First put those jets back in (300) and 27.5 pilot.  Toomey needles are superior just an fyi but unlikely your issue.  I would get a digital multimeter with ohm setting and test all the electrical components, you cant test the CDI but you can test the coil leads and primaries and the stator (and verify that you have all oem electrical components)  Then compression test and then leak down test.  I wouldnt trust a "shop" to work on anything.   I would also pull the stator cover and verify the pick up coil gap (feeler gauge, .018)

Edited by Ayesully810
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12 hours ago, OneBADBanshee05 said:

  First thing I would do is a leak down test. That will tell you a lot. You could be leaking around your reeds cages, your intake boots could have small cracks, the base gasket on the cylinders could be leaking or the crankshaft seals could be leaking. Without doing a leak down test you could be fighting yourself fixing your problem. If you go onto YouTube and search for South Texas Banshee he has a channel on there that explains and shows different types of banshee repairs. He has one showing how to do a leak down test. 

  To check if there is something wrong with the carbs you could go down to your local auto parts store or Walmart and buy a can of starting fluid. Start it up and get it up to operational temp and while letting it idle take the starting fluid and spray it on the carbs watching the area that you are spraying and that the starting fluid will affect the way it’s idling. ( it may cause it to either rev up or stall out! ) You can also do the same thing around the base of the cylinders and around the intake area as well. You can go to you local hardware store and buy the items to build your own leak down tester for a few dollars and use a bicycle pump to do the test.  

I got some starting fluid and will try to get out there today and try that. I need to see how to make a leak down tester. I was watching STB vid on leak down testing and yeah the parts on his look pretty simple. I have been subscribed to his you tube channel for awhile now and am also on his facebook group. He seems to be one smart cookie when it comes to these banshees. But then again, so are a lot of the members here.

12 hours ago, Ayesully810 said:

so you took your banshee to a shop, he had it for 3 weeks and all he did was crank the air screw in and mess up the float level? wow, superb mechanic-ing  Just another reason to either learn to work on this stuff yourself via BHQ forums with trial and error (thats how most people here learned) or send your stuff to a legit banshee builder (reference the BHQ sponsors.) 

Well even though I agree with you 100%, they did get it running a ton better than it was. They also tested a bunch of stuff including the compression test (assuming they arent lying). But yes, I DO need to learn how to diagnose and work on this myself. I have this forum which seems to be loaded with knowledgeable and helpful people and am subscribed to a few good YouTube channels including South Texas Banshee.

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Some fmf pipes like fatties take a bigger pilot like a 30 or 32.5. your describing in some ways a pilot jet problem

the problem you describe sounds carb related . If you have access to or  can borrow a cdi try changing that
 

what’s the deal on the engine? Is it ported, what size domes are in the bike?

leak down test for sure, go to Home Depot or buy one from STB. This needs to be done.

is your cross over tube attached well to your carbs? 
is there light showing at the reed pedals?

 

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Some fmf pipes like fatties take a bigger pilot like a 30 or 32.5. your describing in some ways a pilot jet problem
the problem you describe sounds carb related . If you have access to or  can borrow a cdi try changing that
 
what’s the deal on the engine? Is it ported, what size domes are in the bike?
leak down test for sure, go to Home Depot or buy one from STB. This needs to be done.
is your cross over tube attached well to your carbs? 
is there light showing at the reed pedals?
 
I was thinking the same as I've had similar issue. Mine was sitting for 4 years and fuel vein was blocked deep behind the pilot jet on the left carburettor. Funny thing, it took me 4 attempts to get it clean properly lol

Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

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7 hours ago, 03blkbanshee said:

 

Well even though I agree with you 100%, they did get it running a ton better than it was. They also tested a bunch of stuff including the compression test (assuming they arent lying). But yes, I DO need to learn how to diagnose and work on this myself. I have this forum which seems to be loaded with knowledgeable and helpful people and am subscribed to a few good YouTube channels including South Texas Banshee.

 i wasnt trying to be insulting I was just saying screw the shops. 

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5 hours ago, Ayesully810 said:

 i wasnt trying to be insulting I was just saying screw the shops. 

I didn't take anything you said as an insult. You are 100% correct. I am trying to learn the ropes so to speak on these 2 strokers. I appreciate your insight.

12 hours ago, 03blkbanshee said:

  To check if there is something wrong with the carbs you could go down to your local auto parts store or Walmart and buy a can of starting fluid. Start it up and get it up to operational temp and while letting it idle take the starting fluid and spray it on the carbs watching the area that you are spraying and that the starting fluid will affect the way it’s idling. ( it may cause it to either rev up or stall out! ) You can also do the same thing around the base of the cylinders and around the intake area as well. You can go to you local hardware store and buy the items to build your own leak down tester for a few dollars and use a bicycle pump to do the test.  

I did the starter fluid thing earlier. Sprayed pretty much everywhere and there was no change in idle what-so-ever. I know that isn't as good as a leak down test, and plan to do that soon. I did go ride it a bit today though. I just rode up and down the street here in my neighborhood. It is actually running really good with the exception of that first 1/8 or so throttle. If you just rev it a little bit she will take off fairly good. It still isn't right and I do want to track down the problem so that it actually runs like it is supposed to. But it definitely is a ton better than it was.

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Once I had slides other way around, left slide in the right carburettor, and right slide in the left carburettor, I couldn't set the idle right. But I think, I was way too rich and it was choking the engine, plus the choke o ring was leaking, enabling engine to suck extra fuel when tho choke was off.
If you leave the bike to sit for long time and carburettors are not bone dry, it opens magical portal for all kinds of issues.

Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

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