coleman66six Posted August 21, 2019 Report Share Posted August 21, 2019 Basically I painted my banshee a couple months ago and it turned out good but of course did not hold up. Paint was already wearing off and fading after 2 weeks. Being the dumbass I am and knowing nothing about paint I didn’t prime the yellow painted parts before I started, I just scrubbed the parts in a part cleaner and painted them. When I recently did my a arms I smartened up and primed them with a few coats, sanded them with different grits, and painted them, the a arms sure hold up wayyyy better. I actually first painted the a arms yellow but then realized how retarded that looked, so I stripped down the paint and repainted. But now I am going to take off all the old paint and repaint everything in the rear. Basically I am looking for any tips on how to make the yellow paint stick and hold up better for me. (I am happy with the a arms) I was going to powder coat but the only shop around me wants to charge 500$, I am not looking to spend that on this banshee lol. Any tips are appreciated, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkylee Posted August 21, 2019 Report Share Posted August 21, 2019 52 minutes ago, coleman66six said: Basically I painted my banshee a couple months ago and it turned out good but of course did not hold up. Paint was already wearing off and fading after 2 weeks. Being the dumbass I am and knowing nothing about paint I didn’t prime the yellow painted parts before I started, I just scrubbed the parts in a part cleaner and painted them. When I recently did my a arms I smartened up and primed them with a few coats, sanded them with different grits, and painted them, the a arms sure hold up wayyyy better. I actually first painted the a arms yellow but then realized how retarded that looked, so I stripped down the paint and repainted. But now I am going to take off all the old paint and repaint everything in the rear. Basically I am looking for any tips on how to make the yellow paint stick and hold up better for me. (I am happy with the a arms) I was going to powder coat but the only shop around me wants to charge 500$, I am not looking to spend that on this banshee lol. Any tips are appreciated, thanks! Lol.. I have the exact same sheet, with the exact same issue.. Doing a complete restore. So just don't have the extra cash to powder coat at this time.. Basically just painting to keep parts from rusting. I'll powder after build is done and I get a few rides on it. Your paint hid is only as good as the prep work underneath it. What brand of paint are you using.. IMO.. Rustoleum is the absolute WORST to use. Just make sure to remove all old paint and rust. Sand with 120 grit paper.. Then MOST importantly..clean surface.. I use 50 to 70 % rubbing alcohol. Cause it's cheap, drugs quick and works good. DO NOT use 90%. It leaves an oily film and paint comes right off. After cleaning, DO NOT touch parts with bare skin... Now prime.. Once dry...sand primer with 180 grit paper.. Clean again and paint..that's all there is to it. Unless you want a very shiny coat.. In that case, you would want to lightly scuff the paint with RED scotch bright, clean again and then clear coat....I had to repaint all of my parts 3 to 4 time till I got all of my mistakes worked out .... I tried a couple different ways, but finally got advice from my brother-in-Law.... Which has been painting cars for many years. Good Luck. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkylee Posted August 21, 2019 Report Share Posted August 21, 2019 OH WOW !!!! Guess I should have proof read that first...lol... Sorry for the misprints. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted August 21, 2019 Report Share Posted August 21, 2019 as you have already learned, prep, prep, prep. thats the first step. i wouldnt be super concerned with anything that doesnt come off with aircraft stripper. i used that stuff on cessna/bell aircraft, and thats the only time that its necessary to get it all off, because every ounce of paint counts for weight. other than that, if it doesnt really want to come off, even after roughing it up a bit, its stuck on there good enough as a good base for coating. 120, is a tad rough, unless you are getting ater some rust. if you have bare metal, you should have some metal prep/etch to get it bonded good (which may be included in some primers) and this brings us to the next step. primers. choic of primer needs to match not only the topcoat, but also the substrate, and the method. for instance, if you are going to just spray and spray, like with a completely bare frame, epoxy primer is an excellent choice for primer/seal coat. however, if you need a primer/filler (in other words, you are going to sand/feather, you need a filler/sandable type primer) also pay attention to the flash/topcoat time. some need it coated in color before or after a certain time frame and not in between (temperature/humidity specific) and some only have a certain period before it needs to be cured, prepped and resprayed if you miss that window. some products also get a bad name because nobody does the proper prep (certain rustoleum products, etc) but if done right, they can yield decent performance. also, you want to consider compatibility of the top, and under coatings. acrylic and lacquer enemels, etc. many will absoultely not adhere, or have a reaction when applied in an uncured state (either pre-cured, or recent treatment. this is probably one of the larger reasons why your primed pieces had a better effect. acetone, and grease remover are your friend. so is lacquer thinner, but that is not so great when you dont actually need it for things like cleaning your paint guns, etc. 220-400 are typically your prep grits, unless you need to do some heavy stuff, like cleaning rust pits out, or using body filler, but you shouldnt need that on a frame component. i dont know what your budget is like, but eurothane/epoxy coatings cna be the next best thing, or even surpass powder coat. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted August 21, 2019 Report Share Posted August 21, 2019 btw, love the yellow. not a big fan of the shade of it, though. probably clashes with the yamaha yellow if you have them close together. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkylee Posted August 21, 2019 Report Share Posted August 21, 2019 btw, love the yellow. not a big fan of the shade of it, though. probably clashes with the yamaha yellow if you have them close together.AKheathen... You're absolutely right..About the color scheme.. I couldn't seem to find a super close shade of yellow for mine in a spray can..plus, the yellow we have at work was FREE... So for the time being ? It's the PERFECT shade Lol.. Will definitely powder coat after the rebuild.Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkylee Posted August 21, 2019 Report Share Posted August 21, 2019 LOTS-A-WORKSent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted August 21, 2019 Report Share Posted August 21, 2019 1. sand blast 2. prime 3. paint 2-3 coats depending on part 4. clear coat 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coleman66six Posted August 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2019 Appreciate all the replies, I should be going to silver lake in a couple weeks, should be looking fresh by then. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted August 23, 2019 Report Share Posted August 23, 2019 23 hours ago, coleman66six said: Appreciate all the replies, I should be going to silver lake in a couple weeks, should be looking fresh by then. ill be there the 14th riding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the boris Posted August 28, 2019 Report Share Posted August 28, 2019 as you have already learned, prep, prep, prep. thats the first step. i wouldnt be super concerned with anything that doesnt come off with aircraft stripper. i used that stuff on cessna/bell aircraft, and thats the only time that its necessary to get it all off, because every ounce of paint counts for weight. other than that, if it doesnt really want to come off, even after roughing it up a bit, its stuck on there good enough as a good base for coating. 120, is a tad rough, unless you are getting ater some rust. if you have bare metal, you should have some metal prep/etch to get it bonded good (which may be included in some primers) and this brings us to the next step. primers. choic of primer needs to match not only the topcoat, but also the substrate, and the method. for instance, if you are going to just spray and spray, like with a completely bare frame, epoxy primer is an excellent choice for primer/seal coat. however, if you need a primer/filler (in other words, you are going to sand/feather, you need a filler/sandable type primer) also pay attention to the flash/topcoat time. some need it coated in color before or after a certain time frame and not in between (temperature/humidity specific) and some only have a certain period before it needs to be cured, prepped and resprayed if you miss that window. some products also get a bad name because nobody does the proper prep (certain rustoleum products, etc) but if done right, they can yield decent performance. also, you want to consider compatibility of the top, and under coatings. acrylic and lacquer enemels, etc. many will absoultely not adhere, or have a reaction when applied in an uncured state (either pre-cured, or recent treatment. this is probably one of the larger reasons why your primed pieces had a better effect. acetone, and grease remover are your friend. so is lacquer thinner, but that is not so great when you dont actually need it for things like cleaning your paint guns, etc. 220-400 are typically your prep grits, unless you need to do some heavy stuff, like cleaning rust pits out, or using body filler, but you shouldnt need that on a frame component. i dont know what your budget is like, but eurothane/epoxy coatings cna be the next best thing, or even surpass powder coat.What about paint for plastics, what's good for them? Thanks. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted August 28, 2019 Report Share Posted August 28, 2019 What about paint for plastics, what's good for them? Thanks. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using TapatalkThere's a plastic bonding agent, just like with bare metal. Also a flex additive. Something that gets highly bent and beaten like a 4wheeler is always best just to get different color plastic.Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the boris Posted August 28, 2019 Report Share Posted August 28, 2019 There's a plastic bonding agent, just like with bare metal. Also a flex additive. Something that gets highly bent and beaten like a 4wheeler is always best just to get different color plastic. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk Mine are structurally good but only problem is the sun damage, i would paint them same color as they are (black), just to get that new look again. And they aren't that old either, some 8 years lol, I'm also not sure should I just wrap them instead of painting. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.