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What did I get myself into?

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7 hours ago, ClaudeMachining said:

2 strokes rules, fact!!!

But working on a direct injection 2 strokes (rotax) is a bitch.

Envoyé de mon SM-G965W en utilisant Tapatalk
 

Been sorting out my buddy’s Blizzard with 600 SDI. What a pain in the nuts to work in there. 

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1 hour ago, Ayesully810 said:

I would say that only applies to people who dont know how to tune and what to look for in determining if tuning is correct or not, those are the peeps that will run stock jets in a modded bike and then blow it up and say banshees are finicky tune.  If you take your time do your research on tuning and be patient you can ride it for 1 minute and know what needs to be changed.  jmo. 

This^ I’ve never met a complainer that had a fucking clue. 

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On 11/21/2019 at 8:03 AM, the boris said:

Sorry for being a dickhead but this guy came here couple of months ago with a problem,asking for advice.
He was given good advice and where to start from on couple of occasions but he still keeps beating the same thing expecting different results.
He doesn't wanna spend good time on that quad,doing some good research and than applying it.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
 

Beyond the leakdown test suggested, I've done several things suggested. I've spent several hours researching, digging through, trying to find info on this particular combo and tuning to no avail. Maybe a leakdown test will solve the whole puzzle. But if it doesn't, I'm back in the same damn spot again. 

On 11/21/2019 at 10:46 AM, specialblend07 said:

 

I think I speak for everyone here when I say banshees are very simple to work on. BASIC tools are all that's required. You don't even need to be real mechanical, if you can read or remember the steps on reassembly from taking apart that's really all you need.

I have the tools. I have plenty of experience working on real bikes and cars. I do not have a ton of experience working on two stroke anything. But mechanically speaking, yes a very simple system, more simple than most 4 strokes by a decent measure. However, I have ZERO experience tuning one of these things. I've only owned a couple other two strokes, and never had to tune them. They worked when I got them and worked when I sold one, and I'm sure the one that got stolen from me a couple months ago is still running fine too. 

 

So, basically, leak down. If I lose less than 1psi per minute I'm okay right? If I lose more, then soap it up and figure out where it is leaking. If it is something top end, okay I can fix it easy enough. 

I just have shit for time available. What little I do have, I really don't want to spend it working on things. I do not enjoy working on bikes or cars or any of it. I do it because I am not wealthy enough to buy a new one when the one I've got quits. There is no therapy in mechanics for me. So when I came here asking for help, I was trying to streamline the process to try and save time. Since forums are generally full of people who know their shit, they can usually pop on and save me hours of reading with quick answers, especially on simple machines like this. So my bad if I insulted the community with my sour attitude towards the bike. It has been a royal pain in my ass compared to the other several bikes I've dealt with recently. And I'm still mad about being an idiot and paying more than I should have from an asshole who sold it as something it wasn't. 

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59 minutes ago, Lowflyin said:

If you haven't done a leakdown, anything else you've done doesnt matter

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 

Alright, so lets say the leakdown isn't an issue, then what? 

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Alright, so lets say the leakdown isn't an issue, then what? 
Do the leakdown and go from there.

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk

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Eggs all in one basket. Got it. 

*if , the leakdown is good. Look for carb leaks and make sure you are using genuine jets, not Chinese. Figure out your needle, make sure the needle seat and your float is good. Clean the whole fuel system thoroughly..

 

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1- replace those domes
2-replace that harness
3- do a leak down test
4- ohm the caps
5- trim back coil wires
6-ohm coil
7- check pick up gap
8- clean contacts on pick up/flywheel
9- check grounds
10- what slides and needles do you have?


Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

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Just now, sheerider11 said:

1- replace those domes
2-replace that harness
3- do a leak down test
4- ohm the caps
5- trim back coil wires
6-ohm coil
7- check pick up gap
8- clean contacts on pick up/flywheel
9- check grounds
10- what slides and needles do you have?


Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

Alright I'd like to preface my response here with the fact that I'm trying to spend as close to zero on this as possible. So please, consider suggestions as mandatory for proper function, not ideal for best performance. I am still planning to sell this thing off. 

 

1 - why replace the domes?

2 - tried finding the harness guy suggested on here and his facebook is closed and number didn't work. Not looking to spend $100 here anyway. Would prefer to patch what is here. Don't care if it is crazy clean, just functional

3 Leak down test is GOD. Must move this to position 1

4 Alright you mean plug caps I'm guess? ohm them to what? 

5 is this another cleanup move? Or is there an issue with spark deterioration due to weak coils and long wires?

6 ohm to what spec

7 anyone know what this should be?

8 easy enough

9 done

10 will have to get back to you on this. I know the needles are what someone earlier in this thread suggested but can't remember off the top of my head. Slides no clue. Don't remember seeing obvious stamps on them when cleaning the carbs. 

 

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Get a clymers.
If your not willing to spend money or time researching, go back to your plan of selling it.
Trinity domes are usually cut wrong and cause very odd issues.
South texas banshee has a harness. But if.your not willing to spend the money then that's on you.
Ohm specs are in the clymers.
A leaky seal will cause headaches. So yes a leakdown test is worth a lot. Think what you want, don't forget you came here asking for help.
I gave you a pretty good list that takes people quite a while to even figure out to do. If your not wanting to do the leg work, then continue with your plan to sell it.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

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2 hours ago, sheerider11 said:

Get a clymers.
If your not willing to spend money or time researching, go back to your plan of selling it.
Trinity domes are usually cut wrong and cause very odd issues.
South texas banshee has a harness. But if.your not willing to spend the money then that's on you.
Ohm specs are in the clymers.
A leaky seal will cause headaches. So yes a leakdown test is worth a lot. Think what you want, don't forget you came here asking for help.
I gave you a pretty good list that takes people quite a while to even figure out to do. If your not wanting to do the leg work, then continue with your plan to sell it.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

Your help is what I came here for. Got a lot less from a lot of other posts. So I appreciate it. I came here because there are probably people like you who can look at what I describe and give me a list of likely things and information they have off the top of their head rather than just dropping easter eggs for me to guess and check. 

I'll see if I can google specs. Can't see the sense in buying a manual. This will definitely be my last banshee endeavor. 

I have very little time to spare. My ultimate plan is to sell it, no matter what. I do not want it. I am 100% positive about this. But I'm well over $3k into this piece of crap, so selling it as a non running maybe it will work maybe it won't project will probably lose me 50% or more. If I can spend another $100 and make it move correctly then sell it for $2500-3000 then I'm not totally eating shit. If I have to spend 40 hours and $500-1000 then I may as well cut my losses now. 

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