Timing and idle screw

[twoduce]

Ok I've been cruising the forum reading different post, now looking for a little friendly know how from ya all.                                                                   Ok going to my previous update and got Skeeter thinking now.                                                 Timing was set at +8° retarded to +5° bogged out when stabbed throttle from idle and seemed like it had no power, advanced timing back to +8° which I really do not like after reading a lot of post but it did get snappy and super fast again.                                                                            Now when had it at +5° is it possible that it may have been carb issues at that point and who ever had it before used the timing to resolve the issue instead of doing things the right way???

 

[SKEETER]

I dont see 3* of timing advance fixing any carb issues,   take the carbs off and thoroughly go through and make sure there good to go.  Jetted correctly, etc.   

[SKEETER]

You have access to any smaller carbs, that are setup for a ported,piped, possibly 4mm setup?  I'm just curious if you got too much carb.  Dune ported 4mm can run great on stock size/28mm pwks.  Not sure if the extra timing is a handicap for too much fuel/air,  just an idea.    

[Keno]

If you have 34mm pwk carbs, then they are cheap chinese carburetors. Definitely try some different carbs.

[twoduce]

There 34mm keihin carbs, I'm going to pull them off and check the jetting on them. When I stab the throttle it's all most like it's not getting enough fuel but if I don't stab the throttle rpms will come up but then start bogging out again.

[SKEETER]

Must be PJ's 

[Ayesully810]

id run race fuel If i were you, also you can tell if there is too much timing by how far its burning up on the bridge.  about 3/4 the way up is safe I think. if plugs are reading good and jetting is safe, just leave it.  thats what ive learned 

Edited February 12, 2019 by Ayesully810

[trickedcarbine]

On 2/9/2019 at 9:32 PM, twoduce said:

A little update on this crazy unknown banshee, ok pulled plugs didn't quite look like carbon build up, more of a burnt look but not completely black more like a dark brown and they were dry. Stuck a camera into each cylinder and all looked good, didn't see any scaring, pitting, burn marks, or carbon. Compression test showed 175 psi in both cylinders with 0 leak down for 6 min. Did the timing trial and retarded it back to +5° from +8° not good, lost a lot  of power, throttle response was horrible, if stabbed the throttle it bogged out and almost died, put it back at +8° and it's back to crazy scary fast and hard to hang onto when going threw the gears and it's not slow shifting, you got to be on the ball because it tops out in rpms threw each gear pretty quick. Guess I'll leave it alone and run it like is and check the plugs at the end of each day of riding and stick the camera in each cylinder every now an then to see if any thing is changing. 

That motor needs race gas before you burn it down. Way to much compression and timing to be on pump gas. If you intend to keep running 91 octane, you’ll need to dial it back to 4-5 degrees max timing and get some new domes cut for pump fuel. 

Your idle for PJ carbs is done with the choke knob. Turn them all the way in, Mark them with a paint pen to keep track of how many turns out they are. They should be between 6-8 turns out. The air screw on the side of he carb should be 3/4-2 turns out on PJ’s. Any higher or lower you’ll want different pilots in them.