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New rings and gaskets but!


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So I got new rings in the banshee now and I fired it up to do a heat cycle and it started to rev real high (lean?) so I shut it down in a panic and fired it back up with choke on and it kept the Rpms down. What’s odd is last time I ran the bike the air temp was the same 40* outside and it ran normal. What am I missing 🧐

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1 hour ago, 2 jugs are better than one said:

So I got new rings in the banshee now and I fired it up to do a heat cycle and it started to rev real high (lean?) so I shut it down in a panic and fired it back up with choke on and it kept the Rpms down. What’s odd is last time I ran the bike the air temp was the same 40* outside and it ran normal. What am I missing 🧐

Maybe it was about 10* colder tonight when I ran it 🤔

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did you pull the reed cages and carb boots off when doing the top end? If so did you use new gaskets for the cages and boots? More than likely you have an air leak if temperature and jetting are the same. You should purchase or build a leakdown tester, can be done for less than $20 at home depot/lowes. In the meantime make sure your cylinder base nuts are torqued and carb boots/reed cage nuts snugged up.  I applied a light coat of 1211 sealant to the carb boot and reed cage gaskets to make sure they sealed.  

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I did make a leakdown tester and I sprayed all over as much as I could and didn’t see any air coming out except from around the tool I made and that was really slow. So yes I did reuse the reed gasket but it was stuck on perfect so I left it. There was no sealant in the other side so I didn’t do it this time either. My float is also maybe stuck? It’s leaking out the over flow idk if that is part of it to that’s also today’s new issue haha

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3 minutes ago, 2 jugs are better than one said:

I did make a leakdown tester and I sprayed all over as much as I could and didn’t see any air coming out except from around the tool I made and that was really slow. So yes I did reuse the reed gasket but it was stuck on perfect so I left it. There was no sealant in the other side so I didn’t do it this time either. My float is also maybe stuck? It’s leaking out the over flow idk if that is part of it to that’s also today’s new issue haha

i see, but did it hold 6PSI for 6 minutes? if you put a layer of electrical tape around the carb side plugs it may help seal so that you can confirm it holds pressure and there are no other leaks. If you are positive that there are no air leaks and you are now having carb issues its possible you also have a clogged jet from old fuel or fuel sitting in the carbs too long. Clean the carbs and blow carb cleaner through all the jets and try again. 

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21 minutes ago, dano3 said:

i see, but did it hold 6PSI for 6 minutes? if you put a layer of electrical tape around the carb side plugs it may help seal so that you can confirm it holds pressure and there are no other leaks. If you are positive that there are no air leaks and you are now having carb issues its possible you also have a clogged jet from old fuel or fuel sitting in the carbs too long. Clean the carbs and blow carb cleaner through all the jets and try again. 

It held air for about 1 min. I’ll have to wrap up my tester better and try it again. (Leaked around the tester on both sides) ☹️As for carbs I took them apart and cleared all jets everything else really good. I could see light threw main and pilot jet b4 I put it back together 

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It held air for about 1 min. I’ll have to wrap up my tester better and try it again. (Leaked around the tester on both sides) As for carbs I took them apart and cleared all jets everything else really good. I could see light threw main and pilot jet b4 I put it back together 


Start with the leakdown test again and report back.


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13 hours ago, dano3 said:

 


Start with the leakdown test again and report back.


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Ok so I I fixed my leak down tester and it held 7 psi for over 7 min. 🎉...while I was doing that I checked my float hight like south Texas banshee 21mm and put a new float valve and seat..still leaking out tho

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7 hours ago, SandSlingerOR said:

Agreed probably airleak

My thoughts to but where from my leakdown held great. Carbs leaking maybe? So it starts first kick..idles for about 3-5 seconds then the Rpms start to climb fast..choke it and they come back down but it idles really rich. Let the choke back in and it idles, clears up and starts to climb again? I won’t start it again unless it’s 50 or above but what Bothers me most is the idle screw really didn’t help..maybe a tiny bit at most..just to cold for her right now I hope 😞

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My thoughts to but where from my leakdown held great. Carbs leaking maybe? So it starts first kick..idles for about 3-5 seconds then the Rpms start to climb fast..choke it and they come back down but it idles really rich. Let the choke back in and it idles, clears up and starts to climb again? I won’t start it again unless it’s 50 or above but what Bothers me most is the idle screw really didn’t help..maybe a tiny bit at most..just to cold for her right now I hope


At least now you can rule out an airleak. Did you change anything else related to air flow (pods, starting it without filters on,etc)? What are your jetting specs?


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6 minutes ago, dano3 said:

 


At least now you can rule out an airleak. Did you change anything else related to air flow (pods, starting it without filters on,etc)? What are your jetting specs?


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Yeah thankfully, I was nervous watching the timer haha..it would have held longer but it was to cold to hang out any longer to watch it..nothing else was changed other than all the fuel lines and run off hoses. I have no idea what jets are in it I forgot to look. Also I did not run it one time without the box back On it. Would 10-15* colder really make it run that lean? Sorry I’m kinda new to this..learning fast tho! 😁 also a good way to find an air leak if I could get it to stop ideling like it was trying to blow the top off is a little shot of starting fluid to see if rpms jump up quick right? Or is that kinda dangerous for the motor to suck that in even if it’s a quick shot?

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10-15* drop would need about 1 size larger main jet but if your jetting was already borderline too lean it would make a bigger difference, so yes. Since this is still at idle you are focused on the pilot jet and if you are running a 25 size pilot then yes it may be too lean now with your mods and colder temperature. Did you get a new gasket for your carb cap that you posted about in the other thread? That missing gasket could allow more air to enter that carb and cause that cylinder to run lean.

 

You should really figure out what jets you are running before you go further. Pull both carbs out one by one and remove the pilot, main jet, and air screw and blow carb cleaner through the passages where the jets came out of. Record the numbers on the main and pilot jets then update this thread. Set the air screw at 1.5 turns out when you put it back in. Since it seems like you bought this bike then found out it was low on compression i would not assume anything or trust the previous owners work so best you learn now and make sure it is right. I would be interested in pictures of the pistons too if you took any before you re-ringed them and installed them again.  

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12 minutes ago, dano3 said:

10-15* drop would need about 1 size larger main jet but if your jetting was already borderline too lean it would make a bigger difference, so yes. Since this is still at idle you are focused on the pilot jet and if you are running a 25 size pilot then yes it may be too lean now with your mods and colder temperature. Did you get a new gasket for your carb cap that you posted about in the other thread? That missing gasket could allow more air to enter that carb and cause that cylinder to run lean.

 

You should really figure out what jets you are running before you go further. Pull both carbs out one by one and remove the pilot, main jet, and air screw and blow carb cleaner through the passages where the jets came out of. Record the numbers on the main and pilot jets then update this thread. Set the air screw at 1.5 turns out when you put it back in. Since it seems like you bought this bike then found out it was low on compression i would not assume anything or trust the previous owners work so best you learn now and make sure it is right. I would be interested in pictures of the pistons too if you took any before you re-ringed them and installed them again.  

Ok good to hear that’s what I was hoping to hear. I’m not gonna mess with anything tell spring now, I want warmer temps and if it runs good come that time I would like to do the tors delete bc that crap on top is a pain in the a$$ wow! as for pictures they look crappy when I resize them but the walls were spotless! The top of the pistons looked like coffee stain color and smooth 👌 also yes I did get my hands on flat o rings for both carb caps 👍 also screws were around 1.5 turns out prior to this all. 

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