wmbw Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 I rode banshees as a kid and saved up and bought one of my own but when my dad found out how much power it had he made me sell it so, sadly, I didn't own it long enough to learn much about it. 16 years later I have finally managed to get one of my own and shee is here to stay. Did my research on buying and what to look for and finally found one I wanted. Like a true imbecile, I let my excitement get in the way of my better judgement and ended up with a potential dumpster fire. It was stubborn to start but did run and sounded pretty good so I bought it. It sat in the garage for a couple nights and then I decided to let the neighbors know I had a new toy by firing it up. I kicked it dozens of times to no avail. It wouldn't start. I don't know a ton about motors but I'd like to think I'm not a lost cause. I would like to know what kind of tools and manuals would be useful to get me started. I could take it to a shop but then I wouldn't learn a thing and the next time I have a problem, would be in the same boat. I hope to work on it myself. Any pointers and suggestions would be most helpful. I did a compression test and put new plugs in it and after about 10 kicks got her to sputter and 4 kicks later shee roared to life, only, shee just kept revving higher and higher until I shut it off. Choke or no choke, I can get it to start but the result is the same, climbing rpms. Here's what I know, 2001 banshee, stock motor (as far as I know) it has tors, only mod is toomeyt6 pipes and silencers. I have 91 octane fuel with 32:1 oil mix. Right side compression is 117psi and left is 120psi, altitude is 2100 feet and temp outside was about 90f (low humidity). Any suggestions on where to start my trouble shooting and what tools and manuals will prove useful would be appreciated. I have a basic socket set and the tool set that comes with the banshee. Feel free to call me a dummy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camp0429 Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 Welcome to the sickness. First thing you need is a Clymers manual, read through it in your spare time. Spend some time reading through the pages here as well. Anything you ever need to know about a Banshee is right here. Plenty of helpfull and knowledge folks here too. These things are actually stupid simple once your familiar with them. As far as your issue, git rid of that junk tors system first, go through your carbs and clean them really well. Climbing rpm's can be a sign of an air leak. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wmbw Posted September 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 Thank you for the reply. Do I need a removal kit or is there a way to simply bypass the tors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 Don't take it to a shop. When I got back into the banshee game ( had been out 6 years almost) I felt like a newb and like I knew nothing. Ive honestly spent more time on here and have learned more from here than reading the clymers manual. (it is helpful though and I would still get it) Ive also reached out to other members for help. Just be patient and read as much as you can and you will know your machine inside and out. This site literally has anything you need to know you just have to search. As far as tools? what do you have? -metric wrenches and sockets and T handle allen head wrenches are what you are going to use often. -impact driver is helpful for stubborn bolts on older machines -a good brand electric impact gun or compressor air gun is helpful -torque wrench (calibrated) -digital multimeter -a pressure tester for your motor to rule out air leaks ( can be home made very easily and cheap) -snap ring pliers that's all I can think of off the top of my head right now that I use often. as far as your problem, is your choke tube connected between your carbs? could be an air leak too. first thing I would do if I was your is invest in a TORS delete kit 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wmbw Posted September 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 The guy said he had just gone through the carbs. I will go through them again. I mention it because he was about to take this banshee riding at a high elevation (6000ft) and may have put different jets in it. Could that be a reason for the high revs? I will be ordering the manual and probably a jet kit as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wmbw Posted September 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 Thank you so much for the input. Getting my shopping list together now! I have a socket set with most of the sockets, I will definitely get a better set and some new tools. Also curious, how does my psi look for a stock motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted September 6, 2017 Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 Air leak. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted September 6, 2017 Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 (edited) 2 hours ago, wmbw said: The guy said he had just gone through the carbs. I will go through them again. I mention it because he was about to take this banshee riding at a high elevation (6000ft) and may have put different jets in it. Could that be a reason for the high revs? I will be ordering the manual and probably a jet kit as well. if he put a super small pilot jet in there, maybe. a 25 pilot should be all you need right now for it being a stock motor with just t6s. 120 ish is stock compression so you are looking fine with compression. Id go through the carbs and while you have them off, see what jets are in it and do a pressure test to see if you have an air leak some where. To test for an air leak you have to take the pipes off and plug/block the exhaust ports and make yourself a pressure tester for the intakes. Edited September 6, 2017 by Ayesully810 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wmbw Posted September 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 Thank you everyone for the help. I'm feeling a little better about the task ahead knowing I've got smart people willing to offer advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keno Posted September 6, 2017 Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 Ayesully hit on most things. I like having a set of JIS +2 and +3 screwdrivers. (different than phillips even though they look similar) rubber mallet is helpful for separating cases carb sync tool I like a set of long allen sockets (allen on one end, 3/8 socket on the other) Emphasis on the calibrated torque wrench. A digital torque wrench adapter may be more versatile than actual torque wrenches. at some point you'll need a big ass wrench, torch, and cheater bar for the axle nut. lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wmbw Posted September 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 Great info all around. Just got a new drill set and socket set to replace my fisher price set. Air gauge, clymer manual, ratio rite, tors delete kit, and jet kit are in the mail. I'll be turning my garage into a shop tomorrow and I'll be getting to work. I'll hit the store for those wrenches and the rest of what I need for a pressure test. Updates and plenty of questions to come. Thanks again for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broke350 Posted September 7, 2017 Report Share Posted September 7, 2017 Pull off the airbox and inspect both slides. My buddy had the same issue and one of the carb slides wasn't all the way down right after he did a carb cleaning. He didn't get the needle all the way down and just screwed the top on the carb. Was hard to start and when it finally would start, it revved to the moon because one carb was at wide open throttle. Sometimes it's that simple especially if the guy "just went through the carbs" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted September 8, 2017 Report Share Posted September 8, 2017 I love my snap-on tools but if your just starting out nothing wrong kit from sears/craftsmen. My first roll away box and tool set was from craftsman. Reasonably priced, at the time I opened a card and if my memory serves me correct it was zero percent for 12months. With that deal I was able to get everything imaginable that I needed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wmbw Posted September 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2017 broke350 and sleeper06, thanks. Still waiting on the manual and tors delete, then I'll be cracking her open with my nifty kobalt tool set. Nervous about the tors delete. From what I see, I will need to grind down the air screw hole as well as drill and tap it. The kit comes with the bits for drilling and tapping (vito kit) but I'm very open to suggestions on how to grind down the carb for the new air screw. I don't have a bench grinder and I don't see myself using it enough to justify the expense. Are there any other suggested methods (ie: filing?) or do I need to shut up and buy a grinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camp0429 Posted September 10, 2017 Report Share Posted September 10, 2017 Just use a flat file. Make sure to clean all the metal shavings out of the carbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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