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True polishing for true Bling Bling!


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Ok, I always get people asking how I get all my parts to look as good as show chrome when in fact they are raw. I learned to polish metal from a jeweler/metal craftsman, or should I say craftsWoman.

 

Stuff you need:

Bench grinder/buffer

abeba6uv.jpg

 

Wheels:

Spiral sewn hard, spiral sewn firm, spiral sewn medium, medium loose, soft loose buff.

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Misc. detail stuff

usadajes.jpg

 

Compounds:

Black emery cake(aggressive), brown cake( kinda aggressive), white tripoli (medium-fine), red rouge (fine). Or any variation of the above.

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Finishing polish, master formula. Nothing else.

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Definitely not this

uze7eby2.jpg

 

Gloves:

Make sure to have welding gloves, because when the wheel is really cutting, the metal gets hot. It will actually start to make residual oil in the pipe start to smoke.9a5ehyqu.jpg

 

Orbital sander:

Any orbital will due. Make sure to has an array of pads from 220 grit to 1000.eje4y5ah.jpg

 

 

This is about the gist of what is needed. I'll post the process separately.

 

 

 

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First you need to start sanding the entire pipe thoroughly with the 220 grit.

mepy3y7y.jpg

Move through 220, 320,400,600,800, & 1000 grit till the pipe is starting to look reflective.

9etydede.jpg

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Now that the pipe is sanded down nicely (1/2 hour a pipe roughly)

You can start to run them on the buffer. ube3y7y6.jpg

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Start with the coarse hard spiral sewn and black(or substitute compound)

You will insatantly start to see progress. Then move in to the brown cake on the firm spiral. Next is white on the medium wheel. Then white on the soft. Finally red rouge on the soft loose buff. Make sure to not mix compounds on the same wheel. ge9erahe.jpg

junehy2y.jpgpa8y3a6a.jpg

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Now you give them the final luster with master formula on a micro fiber cloth or bonnet. Give it a good amount of elbow grease till it has no residue left. Finally throw the sealer gloss on them. This will allow the pipe to see elements with out turning to a rusted chunk of shit.

 

Note, those rockets are absolutely raw. I bought the last set of stampings from Dave the last known owner of Rocket brand. These things came to me rough and rusty! Now they look like chrome.

 

 

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Do they discolor from heat when u run them

no, not really. No more then chrome. They will get the same blue and gold tint from jetting issues though. Kinda what you see in one of the pics. There are a lot of fellas with raw pipes that look like shit and they don't need to.
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I use that master formula also. .. it very good .... I leave that sealer on over night.... also if u ever have that burnt oil on the bottom of the pipes wipe on the master formula heavy and leave it on there. Then wrap it with plastic wrap..let it sit for a day or so... it will come off with a credit card.

Could probably use any bug and tar remover same way

Edited by SOUTHTHIRTY
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How quick will they rust? Any preventatives?

 

I have been spraying the shit out of my LEDs with WD40.

These took about 2 seasons to rust. Master formula sealer is titties! The rockets were ridden through the whole winter then left for almost a year and only rusted in a few small spots. When I got these they looked worse then those raw OOF pipes you have. Those LED's can look pretty bitchin with about 4 hours of work. You could chrome them but I would definitely raw polish them first either way. Edited by trickedcarbine
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Master formula is at trade shows and online

 

This year on the show circuit some new company called Sheen Genie has been showing up with the same booth as master formula. Their stuff is not petroleum based like MF so apparently it will not seperate in the cold. However it is kinda shitty in my opinion. Seems to look hazy all the time. Don't let them talk you in to switching.

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