BANSHEE START but runs like Crap

[BENGshee]

Hi guys.

I have this situation.

I bought the banshee 2004 2 years ago it had a bunch of stuff on it already like FMF pipes with FMF silencers K&N with no lid

Jetted 280 main and 26 pilots, bored one size over.

IT RAN MINT. Powerband was crazy, I loved it

 

it had the revbox unplugged i don't know why, and the tors unpluged on the carbs

I think it is revbox it is located on the left side off the spark coil under handle bar.

 

BRAKE POINT ::: Once one kid messed around with it and he pluged in the revbox and it stoped idling.

I didn't know that.

I started messing around with carbs first i cleaned it, than tryedlifting the slides up with tors.

Nothing was succesfull and than i kinda went into adjusting which was a big misstake.

when I figured out that it was just the plug, i unpluged it, but it started to run like crap,

Backfires, no power only started if pushstarted.

I checked the reeds they where pretty tight.

than I chenged the rings, i think it was like 38 psi, compare to 35 with old rings, new plugs, standard heat.

Now i installed the tors removing kit with the idle screw,

everything in the gaskets seems pretty tight.

Sinked it put the intake back on all tight too. the jetting is same 280, 26

 

NOW SYMPTOMS ARE

Starts when only spray the gas in to intake,

I messed around with both idle screw and airfuelmixture screw from sinc 0 on idle and from tight on the fuel air mix

the needle is in middle position.

It doesnt idle, and revs sometimes very high and don't drop, all in one fraze runs like crap.

 

I don't know whats is wrong dosnt wanna run good.

Do you guys think it may be the electrical issue.

Edited July 29, 2012 by BENGshee

[NitroTate]

You could have a few other things going on but did you say "38 psi" meaning you tested the engine compression?? These bikes normally need upwards of a minimum of 90 psi in order to run. In some odd cases they'll run with less but not very efficiently. If you are truly at only 38 psi (using a good compression testing tool and testing correctly) then that's your first problem and it might require a top end job unless there is some kind of leak or you have a crappy tester.

 

If you are testing compression make sure you are holding the throttle wide open and kick the hell out of the kickstart until the needle stops moving. (about 10-20 kicks usually does it).

[BENGshee]

Thanks ,

I will check compression again,

It really is very low.

[BENGshee]

THe compretion on the Quad is 138 PSI in both cylinders same.

 

Now I tryed again and it looked like it is really hard on fuel

I sprayed some in there, and it started but on a touch of gas it boged down right away,

I gave the air mixture screw 1 and 3/4 turnes stared with some fuel sprayed again ran for 10 seconds badand still bogged

I still have suspitions that ther could be electronics involved in a problem

 

Help me out here please

the tors are replaces with elemination kit, and plugs are not pluged,

and the box that is on the left of coil is unpluged

Still don't know what is it

[NitroTate]

To me so far it sounds like a fuel/air issue. I'm not sure if you've actually taken the carbs apart and cleaned them or not but you should for sure just to make sure nothings jacked up or dirt stuck somewhere etc. Make sure to pull the main jets, pilot jets, float needle all out and blow them out with air and/or carb cleaner. (you could have a little piece of sand stuck in a jet causing it to run weird or not at all without spraying fuel in manually).

 

I would also check the following things after you have the carbs clean and back together:

 

• Clean air filter with nothing blocking the airways (dead mice, rags, etc.)
• Carb slides need to be in correctly (left and right sides) make sure the “cutout” at the bottom of the slide is to the rear of the bike and the other smaller cutout is facing the idle adjustment screws you put in when you eliminated TORS.
• Make sure the slides move freely and “clack” nice and clean at the bottom when you sharply release the throttle
• Sync the carbs
• Make sure the choke tube is on connecting the two carbs
• Make sure the crossover tube in installed
• Make sure all connecting boots from filters to carbs and carbs to intake are all tight and not leaking especially the ones after the carbs toward the motor. (An air leak on the motor side can cause lean conditions and make the bike run crazy.)

If you do all of this and it still acts up as you described then you’ll have to move on to the frustrating task of chasing electrical gremlins…