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Rear sprocket has lots of playyy


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This is a new to me quad so going over everything and the rear sprocket has alot of play in it side to side. What holds that tight? Those 2 big nuts? or could it be bad bearings somewhere?

I also found the left rear hub nut loose...if it wasnt for the cotter pin the nut would have came off (while the last owner was driving it anyway). Cotter pin ftw

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What year is the bike? woouldnt be a bad idea to change the carrier bearings if its a older model.

The 2 nuts should tighten that up though, after you tighten them up wrap them with electrical tape it will stop them from loosen up again.

As for the hubs, thats common, they loosen up often also, i use some red loctite and get some leverage while tighten and you should be fine.. MAKE SURE YOU REINSTALL THE COTTER PINS THOUGH.

Joe

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If you follow the correct torq sequence for all of the nuts in question, you won't need electrical tape or loctite or any of that. (No offense to wacko) Check your clymer manual and get yourself a good big-ass torq wrench. Torq the first big nut up against the sprocket hub, then torq the second nut against the first, then reverse torq the first nut backwards against the second. That will lock the two against eachother. On the hub nuts you just need a big-ass torq wrench, or an impact gun. The impact has worked well for me in the past on the hub-nuts. check out your clymer manual, all the torq specs are in there.

 

- Jared

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Its an 03 and thanks, ill check and retorque the big nuts. I'm a diesel mechanic so I have big wrenches and both air and electric impact guns that are no prob for those little nuts. I would like to rebuild the rear with new bearings eventually, how hard is that, I know I could do it but is there anything involved besides maybe a press?

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Its an 03 and thanks, ill check and retorque the big nuts. I'm a diesel mechanic so I have big wrenches and both air and electric impact guns that are no prob for those little nuts. I would like to rebuild the rear with new bearings eventually, how hard is that, I know I could do it but is there anything involved besides maybe a press?

 

To replace the rear bearing is no big deal. You can use a press or just a hammer & Brass 1" X 6" Drift.

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If you follow the correct torq sequence for all of the nuts in question, you won't need electrical tape or loctite or any of that. (No offense to wacko) Check your clymer manual and get yourself a good big-ass torq wrench. Torq the first big nut up against the sprocket hub, then torq the second nut against the first, then reverse torq the first nut backwards against the second. That will lock the two against eachother. On the hub nuts you just need a big-ass torq wrench, or an impact gun. The impact has worked well for me in the past on the hub-nuts. check out your clymer manual, all the torq specs are in there.

 

- Jared

 

 

NO offense taken, I just know that ive cranked down on those 2 nuts with a monster pipe wrench and the have loosened up, I read on the HQ at one time about the electrical tape and it really works.

Castle nuts also seems to loosen up on me after cranking the shit out of them, so red loctite stopped that problem.

 

 

Carrier bearings are simple to replace as long as there arent to far gone and seized up.

Get yourself a Cylmer asap, will help you with all your questions and concerns :headbang: :headbang:

Joe

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For those of us that are weekend mechanics a pinch axle nut is worth every penny!! They get rid of having to buy giant wrenches that will nevery get used again and is much easier to deal with when working on the rear end! I don't know how people have problems with these nuts getting lose, mine took a giant pipe wrench, vice, torch, and breaker bar! Once they were off they went straight into the trash :angry:

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