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BigRed350x

Banshee Bottom End Assembly Walkthrough

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This is just a simple walk-through. This is NOT a substitution for a clymer manual! This is to be used in conjunction with your clymer manual. If you are unsure of any of this or don't have the tools, send your engine to a professional builder to have the work done. I am not a professional builder, but I am happy to help anyone I can. Any time you encounter a locking washer, or a part that you bend to lock a nut in place, use NEW ones whenever possible.

 

Here's an outline of this build...

 

Stock stroke, Herr Jugs ported stock cylinders, Lightened flywheel, Billet Basket, Pancake Bearing, Shift Star Mod, Billet Water Impeller, Cool Head, Adjustable Timing Plate, Steel Bushing on idler gear, Cases port-matched to cylinders, Wiseco piston kit, Billet Dipstick, and FMF gold-series pipes.

 

Start with a clean work-space and clean materials.

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Insert the shift drum into the bottom case half.

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Slide the front fork rod through the lower case half. Once the fork rod is through the case, align the first shift fork with the rod and shift drum and slide the rod through the fork. Once the shift rod is through the shift fork, install the C-clip on the end of the rod.

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Here you can see the shift fork rod sitting flush with the cases.

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Repeating the process with the rear shift fork rod.

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Here you can see the shift drum, shift fork rods, and shift forks all installed.

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Next, install the shift drum keeper.

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Install the neutral switch cover on the opposite side of the shift drum. I took this pic for reference, but waited to install this part until after I had the cases together since I am using a chain guard that bolts through the neutral switch cover.

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Install the alignment dowel for the shift star.

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Install the shift star onto the end of the drum.

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Install and tighten the bolt down that holds the shift star in place.

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Next, install the roller that rides on the shift star.

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Install the shift shaft alignment bolt and lock washer.

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Install the shift shaft and set the alignment bolt where it needs to be. Make sure you install the shift shaft seal on the opposite side of the cases before installing the shift shaft. The seal can be put in with the shift shaft in place on the engine, but it’s a lot easier to do without the shaft in place.

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The distance between the upper and lower pegs and the shift shaft claws needs to be equal on the top and bottom.

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Once the proper alignment has been achieved, hold the adjustment bolt in place and tighten down the lock nut.

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Bend the lock washer over the lock nut.

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Set the transmission in place. Make sure you have all your bearings in place, and that the half-moon shaped bearing keepers are in place in the lower case half before installing the transmission shafts.

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Install the crank, ensuring the crank bearing pins are lined up whith the case correctly. Also install the crank seals before installing the crank.

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Cover the top and bottom case sealing surfaces with your choice of case sealant. I've always used the red hi-temp engine silicone. I've used this on every engine I've built and have never had any issues. Once both case surfaces are covered, bolt the case halves together, following the guidelines in your clymer manual.

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Once your case sealant has dried you can remove any excess.

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Install the stator / timing plate.

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Here is where I install the chain guard.

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Install the flywheel. Make sure you have the flywheel key seated correctly.

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Pic of the top case half port-matched to the Herr Jugs Racing cylinders that will be used on this build.

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Next up I'll do the idler gear. Install the spacer washer first.

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Idler gear next.

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Keyed washer

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Next install the C-Clip that holds the idler gear in place.

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Grease up the end of the clutch push-rod & install...

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Grease up the clutch push-rod ball & install...

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Install the square key on the crank. Some cranks leak around this key when you do a leak-down test. I always coat the key in the same red silicone I used to seal the cases.

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Install the primary drive gear onto the crank.

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Next put the water pump drive gear on the crank.

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Put the spring washer on... This washer is meant to be installed in a certail direction. Make sure you read your clymer manual and install the washer the correct direction.

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Install the crank nut & torque down to the proper spec...

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Don't forget this little bolt...

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Here's where I stopped for the night.

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The next morning I installed the clutch, kick-starter, and put together my side-cover after sand-blasting.

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Put one of the thick washers/spacers on the clutch shaft first.

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Next is the steel sleeve that sits inside the clutch bushing.

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Then install your clutch basket. (I’m just re-using an old billet basket for this build. It might look like its grooved up, but its just the anodizing worn off where the fiber plates ride on the basket.) Nothing fancy, but it will work just fine for this little banshee.

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Next install the 2nd thick washer/spacer/whatever you want to call it…

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Slide the inner hub onto the clutch shaft.

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Put your lock-washer in its place on the inner hub. (Don’t re-use the old one, just buy a new one. They are only a few bucks.) This one was riding around in one of my parts boxes for a couple years. lol

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Put the clutch nut on and torque it to the specs outlined in your Clymer manual.

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Put the clutch in… Fiber, steel, fiber, steel, fiber, steel… etc. If your steel plates are keyed make sure you get them installed correctly. Mine are not keyed, so away I go.. Make sure you soak your clutch plates in oil or trans fluid at least for a few hours before you install them. Mine soaked in some oil overnight.

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ETC.

 

Once you have your clutch all stacked up and in place, put the outer clutch hub on. I am installing a pancake bearing on this engine, so I put it on before I install the outer hub.

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Put a dab of grease on the end of the pancake bearing where it will contact the push-rod ball.

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Put your clutch springs in place, and follow them up with the clutch spring bolts.

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Torque the clutch spring bolts to the spec outlined in your Clymer manual.

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Install the kick-starter assembly…

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Swing the kick-starter return spring clockwise and attach the spring to the post on the cases.

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Almost forgot the drain plug…

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I sand-blasted my side-cover, so I had to install new seals and water pump bearing & hardware.

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First in is the water pump seal.

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Then the water pump bearing. I drove mine in with a small rubber mallet.

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Flip the side case over and install your water pump impeller. I went with the billet impeller.

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Flip the cover back over and put in the dowel that will engage with the water pump gear.

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Install the water pump gear. Make sure the grooves on the gear line up with the dowell when you install it.

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Then put the washer on top of the gear.

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Then the c-clip snaps into the water impeller shaft.

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Flip the cover back over & install the water pump cover with a new gasket.

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I don’t use the front breather hose on the side-cover. In fact most aftermarket covers have this completely removed. I use a little butane torch and heat up the fitting and plug it with some solder.

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Install the kick-starter seal.

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Back over on the cases… Install the clutch actuator arm seal.

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I also dab some grease on the actuator arm bearing.

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Then put the thin washer on top of the seal.

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Attach the spring to the actuator arm & put it into the cases. Make sure you get the spring set on the keeper on the cases. If installed correctly, the spring will try and turn the clutch actuator arm towards the stator side of the cases.

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Adjust your clutch using the adjustment bolt down by the pancake bearing installed earlier. The little arrow on the actuator arm should line up with the little arrow on the cases when you have it adjust correctly.

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Tighten the adjustment lock nut down.

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Remove the number 9 case bolt and install the clutch actuator arm holder.

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Put the locking ring and O-ring on your coolant tube.

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Using a new gasket, install the clutch side cover. Make sure you don’t pinch the gasket. Once I get mine started I like to put a couple of the side cover bolts in to help hold the gasket in place.

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Water pump cover goes on next…

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Billet dipstick…

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Bolt on your stator cover…

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Don’t forget this little dude. He holds the electrical wires from the stator, as well as holds your clutch cable in place once your engine is back in the frame.

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That’s the end of the Banshee bottom end. Soon to come… Top End Assembly.

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If you reply, PLEASE DON'T QUOTE THE IMAGES IN YOUR REPLY! Use the Add Reply button on the bottom of the thread. We don't need the images repeated a hundred times in the thread with everyone that replies.

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