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timing marks don't line up, runs horrible


blue83ranger

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I'm working on someone else's banshee it's either an '87 or '89. At first it didn't have any spark and it turned out to be a bad stator. So i put in a RM stator and mounting plate. and it runs, just very badly. I went through the carbs and put in new kits, it looked like the problem was the float needle was wore causing it to flood one cylinder but that didn't fix it. So i get a timing light and it's not firing at the correct spot. So i inspected the cdi and it's a RM as well only someone cut the plug off and put a different one on and one wire, a green with yellow stripe on the CDI end of the wiring isn't hooked up. But the owner said it ran fine before. So, is there any other possible cause for a banshee to only run on one cylinder? the 2nd tires to fire and seems to 'try' more on idle that trying to rev it up. and i did have it running somewhat good for awhile but i didn't do anything in particular to get it to. and the flywheel key isn't sheared. thanks for any help.

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I'm working on someone else's banshee it's either an '87 or '89. At first it didn't have any spark and it turned out to be a bad stator. So i put in a RM stator and mounting plate. and it runs, just very badly. I went through the carbs and put in new kits, it looked like the problem was the float needle was wore causing it to flood one cylinder but that didn't fix it. So i get a timing light and it's not firing at the correct spot. So i inspected the cdi and it's a RM as well only someone cut the plug off and put a different one on and one wire, a green with yellow stripe on the CDI end of the wiring isn't hooked up. But the owner said it ran fine before. So, is there any other possible cause for a banshee to only run on one cylinder? the 2nd tires to fire and seems to 'try' more on idle that trying to rev it up. and i did have it running somewhat good for awhile but i didn't do anything in particular to get it to. and the flywheel key isn't sheared. thanks for any help.

Don't sweat the green/yellow wire. That just means the box is meant for a 97 up bike with the park brake rev limiter. Most everybody cuts that wire off anyway. As stated, Ricky Stator and RM Stator CDIs and stators are junk and are known to be bad out of the box brand new.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I switched the plug wires and the problem didn't switch. both plugs have a dark blue spark. I don't understand how it can be sparking in the wrong spot. and how RM stator can be junk and they can be allowed to sell them. Is there a possibility the problem is the stator? and is there a 3rd option in buying a new stator without spending $400ish for a yamaha one? and another weird thing i noticed when i checked the timing is that our timing light wouldn't get a reading from the "dead" cylinder but it would from the other one even though it wouldn' t run with the "dead" plug unhooked.

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put a stock stator on it, see if the problem persists, rm, and ricky stators are NOTORIOUS for causing all kinda mind boggling ignition problems. used good stators usually run about 75 bucks. pm me i can give u the number to a banshee junk yard in mississippi. he will definitly have a stator.

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is it running at a good idle when you check the timing? it has to be under like 2200rpm to hit the mark properly, and will be off if you adjust the plate. also, if you have a rs flywheel, too, then that can be to blame. those are like russian roulette with rs. also, if you didn't use the yamaha style puller, or dropped it or something, it can be damaged. now, about the "dead cylinder" are you sure it's the dead cylinder you are pulling, and not that the other side is loading with fuel, or separated oil? when everything is correct, it will run on either cylinder by itself, with the other side completely disconnected. the way it works, is the secondary winding is wound from one plug wire, to the other, but it has a common connection point in the middle of the winding, which is in contact with the coil mounting. so, when you pull 1 wire, no matter which, spark slightly decreases strength, but it should still spark good none-the less. at this point, i would start ohming out the coil and ground system. key things to look at, aside from ohming the stator and coil- the frame and engine grounds. the engine ground is the cable retainer on the back of the timing plate, which connects to the harness with the black bullet connector coming off the stator, next to the yellow. the frame ground is back by the voltage regulator, near the cdi, and the coil mounting.......

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it runs somewhat decent at idle and i would say it's under 2200 when i checked it. Today i swapped out the stock plugs for some champion n3c's and the misfire did switch sides. But at first it did run on both very breifly , just not very good, then one side fouled the plug. and i did use the right puller for it, and didn't drop or hit the flywheel, I did have to heat it a little because it was rusted on pretty good. I'll take it back off and inspec it closely.

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well, i figured it out. I bought a used cdi off ebay and when i put it on i didn't have spark at all so i emailed the guy i bought it from and he told me he tested it before he shipped it and told me to check my coil. So just to humor him i did, figuring the coil was good because i have spark with the other cdi. The secondary part of the coil tested bad. I ordered a new coil put it on and it runs great. so thanks for all the help and i guess one thing to learn from this is to check everything even if you think it's good.

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  • 10 years later...

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