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AKheathen

DIY TIMING PLATE MOD

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ok, well since the previous info on it seems mia- i'll do a write-up now......

 

What we have going on today is simply modifying the stock timing plate for adustment as high as +5.5....

the exact adjustments are as follows-

in the middle of the mounting screw holes, 1mm=1.034 degrees

on the outter edge of the plate, near the mount screwholes, 1mm=1.136 degrees

to advance- turn the plate clockwise

 

now on to the fun stuff........first thing you will need is the following burr bits-

1/4" drum bit (not sure exact name)

3/8" drum bit. (flat non-cutting end unless you are using a mill setup)

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notice that you need cutting oil, or similar......WD-40 works fine, and you want to keep the bit soaked with it

you can use a regular 1/4 air die grinder, but you can get by with a drill if air is not available.

and, a real valuable tool for breaking the screws loose is an impact driver shown used here. they are cheap, like $12, but work erry effective. just apply some twisting pressure and smack with a hammer.

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Basic removal install is outlined in savage420's writeup, but you need to use the proper tool on the flywheel, or you will damage it.

First thing you want to do, once you have your work area set up and plate clamped, is cut the screw head mounting surface couter-clockwise (to the right if you are looking at the bottom of the plate, and to the left looking at the top) you want to apply some downward pressure and drag it an a slight angle, as it will tend to want to creep up and make the material higher as you go. start with the one next to the pick-up coil mount, as this will set the max your adjustment can be, and the other 2 holes do not need more cutting than that one. Then, move on to the next 2......

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next, move to the 1/4" bit, and drag the holes the same direction. it will take some feel to get used to cutting only in the desired direction without chatter and wander. you are basically controlled fighting what the bit wants to do, just have to figur out which angle to apply the pressure to make it cut the right direction. again, start with the same hole near the pick-up, since there is the most meat/structure in that area, in case you mess up. You want your cuts to be radial with the curve of the plate, not just strait, or it will want to bind on the screws. keep a mount screw near by to test fit that you don't go further than needed. you only need to go as far as will allow the head of the screw, plus socket, will fit. continue with the other 2 holes, once again.

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Ok, now test-fit it on the bike, and make a scribe mark at stock location if you wish, and use the calculations provided, if you want further degree marks. if you atre like me, and want to purdy things up even if only you can see them, then here's some fun pics........remember, you want to keep raw metal where the stator mounts to the plte for good ground, as well as where it presses against the the cases under/beside the screw holes. a file works good to dress these areas up....also, verry light coats, and only as many as needed on the flywheel, and keep the taper, pick-up node, and where the nut and puller goes in clear of paint. the pick-up can be cleaned after drying. REMEMBER TO USE LOC-TITE ON THE NUT another reason is to keep rust and corrosion down. so here you go- painting stages, and mounting pics.....

 

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also, notice, you can use a spark-plug box flap to set the gap.........here is also what happens when it starts raining, and you get in too much of a rush to find the loc-tite............

Photo0145.jpgPhoto0146.jpg.......and when i get drunk and the guy we bring for entertainment passes out first........

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note- he was oblivoius for like 4-5 hours, and didn't get the penis on his face..........freakin hillarious :rotflmao:

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Very thorough. I just take the plate loose and get the dremel cutting bit and widen the mounting holes on the plate as far as they will go and call it good. I don't even unplug the stator, and don't remove the pickup coil.

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Very thorough. I just take the plate loose and get the dremel cutting bit and widen the mounting holes on the plate as far as they will go and call it good. I don't even unplug the stator, and don't remove the pickup coil.

 

Does it cause the bike to overheat if the bike is stock?

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20cc the head and weld the crank and good to go i recon i like the slamdryvere pound it of huw

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Does it cause the bike to overheat if the bike is stock?

only if your jetting is off and you run shitty gas. the stock setting is to compensate for 6month old gas and bad jetting. if you are tuned right, and use good gas, it shouldn't be a problem.... other than learning to work with that new found torque.......

 

20cc the head and weld the crank and good to go i recon i like the slamdryvere pound it of huw

'se- huh :blink:

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Very thorough. I just take the plate loose and get the dremel cutting bit and widen the mounting holes on the plate as far as they will go and call it good. I don't even unplug the stator, and don't remove the pickup coil.

What is the advantage of doing this mod?

Thanks Mitch

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